This is my first LS swap, just got it running. A few of the build pics.

Couple pics of the car from last year before swap.









First thing I did was make 2 fuse panels and mount equipment for the hdx Dakota Digital gauges. One panel is keyed 12v the other constant.






Gauges installed.

 

Long story short, had the ls3 delivered to Nickey Performance in St.Charles for their stage 1 cam, springs, trunion upgrade, throttle body porting ect. Got it home, threw some parts at it and dropped her in.

 

Also, dropped in the sending unit, fuel pump and bolted in the gas tank from Tanks Inc. Plumbed and ran the lines, routed wires to under the dash.

 

New kwik performance alt. bracket on. Tons of room by the temp sensor now. Only thing I don’t like is the long run from the crank to alt. with no idler. Should be ok though.

Edit:also had to change the plug wires due to header clearance on a few cylinders. No biggie but something to consider if someone else was interested in these headers for their build. The cheaper route would’ve been those foreskin socks that cover the plug end but I’m not a fan of the way they look.







The Speartech harness came in today. Really well made and labeled.

 

Trans in for good finally. Frame drilled and cross member bolted in. Drive angle looks good to me.



Yank pas3400 converter a hair over 1/8” away which is within spec.





Giddy up.

 

Finally bolted converter to flexplate. Threw starter in, and routed trans lines to cooler. Also was able to bolt up heater delete plate and trans dip stick. I used chrome button head bolts so it looks halfway decent. Heater plate will be painted to match firewall when this is all done.












Bolted in the drive by wire pedal. It’s about an inch or two further back than the original but it’s perfect because I can stretch a little more. Full travel no problem.





Also found an upper radiator hose that fit great after a little trimming! But it’s touching the intake so I may have to rework that.

 

 

I’ve obviously skipped a lot of details but if anyone has questions with their similar swap I’m happy to answer what I can.

 

Verry nice....I've always wanted to build a 66/67. You're doing it the same way I'd do it. As long as it has 450-ish to the wheels I'll be happy

 

Looking Good !! Can you tell me where you got the grommet running thru the heater delete plate ?

 

Thank you.

That’s about where I figure I’ll be. Auto 5th gens with this cam put down 470’s. I was told the 4l80 eats more power than the 6l80, as will my 9”. Should be pretty fun at 32-3300lbs.

It’s a seals-it split firewall grommet. They have all kinds of different sized id/od grommets. Thank you.

 

Thanks Mr.Bu

 

Looks like Speartech finally came out with a covering option now. I wish they did when I got mine.

 

Mr.Bu That's a beautiful car!! It's going to be a fun ride for sure! Nice work.

 

Mr.Bu, you car is just Amazing, good job !!!!

 

Well done man. Nice car and nice parts, bet it's a joy to drive.

 

Thank you everyone but she isn’t done yet. That’s just the work I’ve done the last month. I’m almost done though.

Bushings are in, and tape is off after another can of paint the other day. Looking back, I should’ve saved the money and went with an iron center section and used some of that money towards a nice powder coat. Couple hundred bucks extra but google says it’s only about 20lbs lighter.

Anyway, here’s that sexy thang. Strange 9” with HD Pro alum center section.

 

Pulled 10 bolt out yesterday and slid my 9” in....gently.




Dbl adjustable uppers. eBay ftw




Now this was pretty cool. It ties the front mounting points of the uppers to the lowers to strengthen chassis. No brainer for $120. Place called pure muscle makes them. Others do too but these were 10 bucks cheaper than umi.





Things left:
Disc brake conversion up front, master cylinder, and running new line to rear brakes.
Measure for driveshaft.
Exhaust
Tune

 

After trying to fix it for almost two weeks I gave up on the universal style fuel sender and bought the float less style unit. So much damn easier. Dropped the tank for the last time hopefully.

Gauge reading with around 4 or 5 gallons.

 

Lokar Trans linkage on. I went with the rod over the cable. 2 bends and a cut and it went in.


New fuel rail fitting. The first one had plastic retainer clips that held it on the rail which I wasn’t sure about. After a search holy **** I was right. People are burning or almost burning their cars down. Bought a new fitting with 4 metal retaining clips and a safety lock on the outside. I’ll be the first to admit I’m a carburetor guy so this is new to me.




Moved the fuel pressure gauge down and straight instead of the 90 because...



I bought some ls3 engine covers. I think it looks way better










Also changed all the loom on the wiring I did (fans/battery ect) to match the speartech harness. A lot of effort to still be ugly, like me :rofl:. I hate seeing wires.