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Just over 100 trouble free miles. Antenna shaved, Hood painted, heater block off painted, tuned by NicKey performance, quick latches installed and no issues since venting the tank correctly.
Voltage seems low, especially considering that the cooling fans are not on. You want over 14v at the alternator. Where is your voltmeter connected? Do you have the S terminal of the atlernator wired correctly (or wired at all)?
Voltage seems low, especially considering that the cooling fans are not on. You want over 14v at the alternator. Where is your voltmeter connected? Do you have the S terminal of the atlernator wired correctly (or wired at all)?
Andrew
i thought the same thing so I checked it with a voltmeter at the alternator and at the battery with the car running. It’s gettIng 14.7 but only displays 13.0-13.5. I’ve got a 145amp truck alt with 4 gauge to battery. The speartech harness plugged right in and everything seems good. Did I overlook something? Factory external regulator is unplugged.
i thought the same thing so I checked it with a voltmeter at the alternator and at the battery with the car running. It’s gettIng 14.7 but only displays 13.0-13.5. I’ve got a 145amp truck alt with 4 gauge to battery. The speartech harness plugged right in and everything seems good. Did I overlook something? Factory external regulator is unplugged.
Given the gauges that you have, is it safe to assume that the voltage reading is coming from the ECU? If it is, then that voltage reading represents the voltage in the system where the ECU gets its main power (where ever that is in your case). If the alternator is putting out over 14 volts while the engine is running, I think you are good to go.
Also, I would watch to see what happens to the voltage when the cooling fans kick on. Pay attention next time and see if there is a substantive (0.3-0.5v) voltage drop. If there is not, then I say you're golden. If there is, I would consider adding a wire to the S terminal on the alternator plug and running it to the main power distribution point, possibly to the point where the fans get their power or maybe where the ECU gets power. It is hard to say for certain, without knowing exactly how you have your big power consumption devices wired.
That was probably a longer response than necessary....LOL
Given the gauges that you have, is it safe to assume that the voltage reading is coming from the ECU? If it is, then that voltage reading represents the voltage in the system where the ECU gets its main power (where ever that is in your case). If the alternator is putting out over 14 volts while the engine is running, I think you are good to go.
Also, I would watch to see what happens to the voltage when the cooling fans kick on. Pay attention next time and see if there is a substantive (0.3-0.5v) voltage drop. If there is not, then I say you're golden. If there is, I would consider adding a wire to the S terminal on the alternator plug and running it to the main power distribution point, possibly to the point where the fans get their power or maybe where the ECU gets power. It is hard to say for certain, without knowing exactly how you have your big power consumption devices wired.
That was probably a longer response than necessary....LOL
Andrew
i definetly apreciate the long explanation, electrical is not my strong suit. The way you described it makes perfect sense knowing how I have it wired in. I WAS seeing a .4-.5 drop when the fans kicked on ( tuned where both come on at the same time) until I unplugged the original external reg. Wouldn’t drop that much all the time, maybe did it twice. Now it drops .2 at most. Each fan is wired on its own 40 amp relay, switched on by the ecu, getting power through 2 10g wires directly off battery.
Thanks everyone for the compliments, it feels good to do a project like this and have your own blood, sweat, and tears in it.
Next annoying issue is the reverse lights. It seems like they come on when the column/trans is in the neutral position which is odd to me. I would think p and r weren’t that far apart between the original powerglide and the 80e in there now. You can see it at 15 seconds when I had my buddy drive it.
Thats his LS swapped c10 he did a frame off on 2 years or so ago.
After trying to fix it for almost two weeks I gave up on the universal style fuel sender and bought the float less style unit. So much damn easier. Dropped the tank for the last time hopefully.
