66 Chevelle LS3/4L80
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On The Tree
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From: Aurora IL
Heres an idle clip.
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It rocks a little at stops but I’m running solid motor mounts, I like it. The exhaust is a Pypes 3” with x pipe and race pro mufflers. It has a deep bass tone at idle the camera doesn’t really pick up.
Heres an idle clip.
https://youtu.be/TFS4uWPYfe0
Thanks for the feedback.
Jim
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From: Aurora IL
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 174
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From: Aurora IL
So after the dyno my trans finally said **** you. I’ve had problems with it from day one if you look back in this thread. It was 100% bone stock but was supposed to be rebuilt. It was not.
Now has new pump, bushings, hd clutches, hd2 shift kit, kevlar r/1st band ect. Should handle 800+. My converter checked out good and was put on a lathe to further smooth out snout. It’s back in the car now, just have to bolt in driveshaft and starter.
Now has new pump, bushings, hd clutches, hd2 shift kit, kevlar r/1st band ect. Should handle 800+. My converter checked out good and was put on a lathe to further smooth out snout. It’s back in the car now, just have to bolt in driveshaft and starter.
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On The Tree
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From: Aurora IL
Given the gauges that you have, is it safe to assume that the voltage reading is coming from the ECU? If it is, then that voltage reading represents the voltage in the system where the ECU gets its main power (where ever that is in your case). If the alternator is putting out over 14 volts while the engine is running, I think you are good to go.
Also, I would watch to see what happens to the voltage when the cooling fans kick on. Pay attention next time and see if there is a substantive (0.3-0.5v) voltage drop. If there is not, then I say you're golden. If there is, I would consider adding a wire to the S terminal on the alternator plug and running it to the main power distribution point, possibly to the point where the fans get their power or maybe where the ECU gets power. It is hard to say for certain, without knowing exactly how you have your big power consumption devices wired.
That was probably a longer response than necessary....LOL
Andrew
Also, I would watch to see what happens to the voltage when the cooling fans kick on. Pay attention next time and see if there is a substantive (0.3-0.5v) voltage drop. If there is not, then I say you're golden. If there is, I would consider adding a wire to the S terminal on the alternator plug and running it to the main power distribution point, possibly to the point where the fans get their power or maybe where the ECU gets power. It is hard to say for certain, without knowing exactly how you have your big power consumption devices wired.
That was probably a longer response than necessary....LOL
Andrew
Well, after driving around, everything getting hot and adding two amps I’m seeing a drop when the fans come in.
Do i I wire the s terminal to constant 12 or keyed fuse panel I made? My ecu is pulling power off that.
Also keep in mind that with the stereo playing (especially loud) you might be approaching the limit of the alternator output.
How many amps is the alternator rated for?
Andrew
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From: Aurora IL
I would wire the S terminal to the point where most of the heavy load accessories get their power. You would know best where at point is.
Also keep in mind that with the stereo playing (especially loud) you might be approaching the limit of the alternator output.
How many amps is the alternator rated for?
Andrew
Also keep in mind that with the stereo playing (especially loud) you might be approaching the limit of the alternator output.
How many amps is the alternator rated for?
Andrew
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From: Aurora IL
thank you for the help Andrew. So I tapped into the s port on the alt. Ran it to my keyed 12v panel and when I connected the positive cable to the battery, my gauges and fuel pump kicked on. I moved the new s terminal wire to the constant 12v panel. I also have a pos from battery directly to my constant 12v panel on the same terminal I just added the s wire. This ok? Basically I think my new s terminal wire is getting constant 12v with the car off.
thank you for the help Andrew. So I tapped into the s port on the alt. Ran it to my keyed 12v panel and when I connected the positive cable to the battery, my gauges and fuel pump kicked on. I moved the new s terminal wire to the constant 12v panel. I also have a pos from battery directly to my constant 12v panel on the same terminal I just added the s wire. This ok? Basically I think my new s terminal wire is getting constant 12v with the car off.
Andrew
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From: Aurora IL
Finally got it to the track. Car needs more gear bad, or a 26” tire would really help. Best of 11.54@117 in 2k da in its street trim. I’m pretty stoked for a cam and header car lol.
here’s an 11.58 pass
and an 11.7 still tuning it earlier in the day.
here’s an 11.58 pass
and an 11.7 still tuning it earlier in the day.
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One of the things I did was to add a 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the Battery...….I thought a 10 gauge was normal..... LOL..... After the fans kicked on my voltage stayed around 13 volts...….. Now with the 6 Gauge and the fans running the Voltage stays at 14 volts......
