Fuses
02-25-2018, 11:55 AM
#1
Fuses I知 finishing up my installation of my LS1 in my 67 Camaro. I would like to put an inline fuse before serving my original fuse box. I知 all stock besides the engine. What is good amp and type to use? What are some options out there to use with this application? Any recommendations/ part #s appreciated.
02-25-2018, 01:18 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
To support which circuit? There are many circuits needing protection. Are you just trying to get your LS1 to start and run? If yes, I'd start small at a ten amp "ATO" style fuse (not the glass type in your Camaro) and go up from there if it blows during testing. Hopefully, you are just powering the PCM here and your fuel pump is separately protected by its own line and fuse.
My two cents . . .
Rick
My two cents . . .
Rick
02-25-2018, 05:36 PM
#4
TECH Senior Member
Agreed! WHY would you want to "fuse fuses"???
02-25-2018, 06:33 PM
#5
The original set up in the 67 Camaro had a fusible link by the horn relay before it went to the fuse box. So this is why. The factory did it. Why ! If that old fuse box shorts or something I would like to protect the battery. If the short was on the line side, I would like to control the short. So it don’t mess up my LS1 harness.
02-26-2018, 05:36 AM
#6
I bought a couple of high amp fuse holders from this on line car stereo place
https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...0046/set_num/2
Basically replaced all my fusible links with fuses. There is a single 85 amp coming right off the 85 amp alternator, then put in a distribution block with 4 fuses where your horn relay is. The distribution box is fed with 8 gauge wire from the alternator. It has 4 fuses, two 10 gauge wires to the fuse box, one to the radiator fan than a separate (I think) 20 amp fuse to the battery. Worked out really well the 10 years I have been running this way.
By the way fuses should be sized to protect the capacity of the wiring and not the load. It is never a bad idea to have long lengths of wiring protected by some sort of fuse. Even your house has a main breaker feeding a bunch of subbreakers. fusing fuses I guess you could call it. Protecting against over current I would call it.
https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...0046/set_num/2
Basically replaced all my fusible links with fuses. There is a single 85 amp coming right off the 85 amp alternator, then put in a distribution block with 4 fuses where your horn relay is. The distribution box is fed with 8 gauge wire from the alternator. It has 4 fuses, two 10 gauge wires to the fuse box, one to the radiator fan than a separate (I think) 20 amp fuse to the battery. Worked out really well the 10 years I have been running this way.
By the way fuses should be sized to protect the capacity of the wiring and not the load. It is never a bad idea to have long lengths of wiring protected by some sort of fuse. Even your house has a main breaker feeding a bunch of subbreakers. fusing fuses I guess you could call it. Protecting against over current I would call it.
02-26-2018, 10:35 AM
#7
TECH Senior Member
OK, now I get it. Kindly disregard earlier question...
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02-26-2018, 12:45 PM
#9
I just these 2 weeks re-wired my entire chassis for LS swap stuff and came to a couple conclusions.
The original fuse box power input from the battery did not use a fuse. I am still researching whether the factory wire-to-post plug-ins (which I was able to preserve in then new location) will act as some kind of fusible link in the event of trauma to the power wire that feeds the box (and consequently, the headlights, turn signals, 1 of 3 fans, and other minor junk). I believe the factory may have left it unfused originally due to short length (what could happen between the battery and 12" away to the fuse box?)
It got me thinking about the alternator. Did I need a fuse on the feed side of the alternator, coming back to the box? My instinct tells me that no, it wouldn't be necessary, because the alternator isn't going to put out the kind of juice the battery is capable of, plus it only works when it is spinning. So in the event of catastrophic failure or accident the alt is probably going to stop spinning, and even if it doesn't, it isn't like a battery draining down. Therefore, there is a factory fuse on the wire that leads from the fuse box TO the alternator, but there is no added fuse at the alt leading away from it.
For the starter wire, is my main concern, I'd really love a fuse for this one. I am going to try a 250amp or 200amp and see how long it will crank with those. I'm almost ready to finalize the bay and then I can finish the trunk and test it. For now, it is un-fused, however I have added several layers of protections. Starting with typical convoluted tube, over that is a high quality cooler hose, and over that is bubble wrap type materials. And in corners or places where it runs through a metal area there is a radiator hose around all of that. I also have some of those OEM plastic protectors for wiring where it runs under the carpet. I walked around the junkyard for 5 hours looking for little plastic wiring protectors and clips to retrofit my swap.
Finally, to run the computer, pumps, ignition, injectors, I put all these fuses by the computer and originally used "lt1swap.com"'s fuse holder idea. But I found them unsatisfactory. Even though I never had a problem with that style yet, the way it holds the little metal pieces was too delicate for my taste. I considered epoxying everything together but I think I found a better solution anyways. In the junkyard some cars have small "mini relay boxes". I found one from a volvo that has 4 relays, 4 fuses, 1 of the fuses is on the main input so its really 3 fused relays and 1 non-fused relay in this little black box with a cover. I think this is a high quality solution and more subtle to retrofit into a swap.
The original fuse box power input from the battery did not use a fuse. I am still researching whether the factory wire-to-post plug-ins (which I was able to preserve in then new location) will act as some kind of fusible link in the event of trauma to the power wire that feeds the box (and consequently, the headlights, turn signals, 1 of 3 fans, and other minor junk). I believe the factory may have left it unfused originally due to short length (what could happen between the battery and 12" away to the fuse box?)
It got me thinking about the alternator. Did I need a fuse on the feed side of the alternator, coming back to the box? My instinct tells me that no, it wouldn't be necessary, because the alternator isn't going to put out the kind of juice the battery is capable of, plus it only works when it is spinning. So in the event of catastrophic failure or accident the alt is probably going to stop spinning, and even if it doesn't, it isn't like a battery draining down. Therefore, there is a factory fuse on the wire that leads from the fuse box TO the alternator, but there is no added fuse at the alt leading away from it.
For the starter wire, is my main concern, I'd really love a fuse for this one. I am going to try a 250amp or 200amp and see how long it will crank with those. I'm almost ready to finalize the bay and then I can finish the trunk and test it. For now, it is un-fused, however I have added several layers of protections. Starting with typical convoluted tube, over that is a high quality cooler hose, and over that is bubble wrap type materials. And in corners or places where it runs through a metal area there is a radiator hose around all of that. I also have some of those OEM plastic protectors for wiring where it runs under the carpet. I walked around the junkyard for 5 hours looking for little plastic wiring protectors and clips to retrofit my swap.
Finally, to run the computer, pumps, ignition, injectors, I put all these fuses by the computer and originally used "lt1swap.com"'s fuse holder idea. But I found them unsatisfactory. Even though I never had a problem with that style yet, the way it holds the little metal pieces was too delicate for my taste. I considered epoxying everything together but I think I found a better solution anyways. In the junkyard some cars have small "mini relay boxes". I found one from a volvo that has 4 relays, 4 fuses, 1 of the fuses is on the main input so its really 3 fused relays and 1 non-fused relay in this little black box with a cover. I think this is a high quality solution and more subtle to retrofit into a swap.