Have you LS'd a 77-89 Caprice w/fbody oil pan? HOW???
07-01-2018, 01:02 AM
#1
Have you LS'd a 77-89 Caprice w/fbody oil pan? HOW??? If you've put an LS into a 77-89 GM b-body and used an FBody oil pan, what engine mounts did you use?????
It's got to be somewhere near 1 am. My father and I have been wrestling this 2004 5.3 with 4l60e trying to install it in my 78 caprice for like 12 hours. It's like 100 degrees today with insanely high humidity. I used BRP ls swap motor mounts and trans mount. Aside from the fact the motor mounts wouldn't even install on the frame because the holes were drilled wrong, the mounts will not allow the engine to fit without hitting the pan.
If you've put an LS into a 77-89 GM b-body and used an FBody oil pan, what engine mounts did you use????? If you know anyone who did, please let me know them so I can ask. I'm going to go have a heat stroke now.
Thanks,
Brandon
It's got to be somewhere near 1 am. My father and I have been wrestling this 2004 5.3 with 4l60e trying to install it in my 78 caprice for like 12 hours. It's like 100 degrees today with insanely high humidity. I used BRP ls swap motor mounts and trans mount. Aside from the fact the motor mounts wouldn't even install on the frame because the holes were drilled wrong, the mounts will not allow the engine to fit without hitting the pan.
If you've put an LS into a 77-89 GM b-body and used an FBody oil pan, what engine mounts did you use????? If you know anyone who did, please let me know them so I can ask. I'm going to go have a heat stroke now.
Thanks,
Brandon
07-01-2018, 07:36 AM
#2
The F body oil pan has a really long sump area that usually means you will need to move the engine further back towards the firewall than you normally would unless you notch the back side of the front engine crossmember. Is that where its hitting that wont allow it to go in all the way? If so you really only have a couple of options, notch the crossmember or get a pan that will fit it like a Holley 302-2 which is basically an F body pan with a sump area the size of an old small block's oil pan sump.
07-01-2018, 10:00 AM
#3
when i installed my motor using an f-body pan in an a-body, i had to install the engine first and then the transmission from under the car. either the pan would hit the crossmember or the heads would hit the firewall when angling the assembly enough for the trans to not hit the floor pan. its not too bad doing them separately but sucks figuring out that was the only way it would work for me.
this will probably sound dumb but if you don't want to take the engine/trans apart you could always remove the pan, install the assembly and then lift it up enough to reinstall the pan.
this will probably sound dumb but if you don't want to take the engine/trans apart you could always remove the pan, install the assembly and then lift it up enough to reinstall the pan.
07-01-2018, 12:42 PM
#4
We managed to get the engine and trans, hooked together, fully inside the car and got the sump to clear the crossmember. The problem is that the pan will not allow the engine to move forward in the car far enough for the motor mounts to light up with the holes.
I've been trying to find some measurements online for the Holley 302-1, 302-2, 302-3 oil pans. It seems I have 3 options:
1) New motor mounts that will allow the motor to mount slightly further back so the f body oil pan will fit behind the crossmember
2) New oil pan that will allow more clearance between the crossmember and oil sump area which will allow the motor more room to move tot he front of the car
3) cut, weld and notch the frame to allow more room for the F-body oil frame.
I'm trying to determine the best route.
I've been trying to find some measurements online for the Holley 302-1, 302-2, 302-3 oil pans. It seems I have 3 options:
1) New motor mounts that will allow the motor to mount slightly further back so the f body oil pan will fit behind the crossmember
2) New oil pan that will allow more clearance between the crossmember and oil sump area which will allow the motor more room to move tot he front of the car
3) cut, weld and notch the frame to allow more room for the F-body oil frame.
I'm trying to determine the best route.
07-01-2018, 01:09 PM
#5
oops, didn't read your op correctly
another thing to consider...does the stock low mount ac compressor interfere with the frame if the motor is installed back far enough for the f-body pan to clear?
this is why i went with the dirty dingo sliders on my 75 nova build... used the stock frame/clamshell mounts and then put the motor where i wanted it and locked it down. but same consideration...if it has to be too far back the mounts and frame may interfere with the compressor but there are solutions for that also (notch the frame or run a compressor moved forward to run off the same belt as the other accessories)
can you do what was suggested previously and bolt the mounts to the block, set things in place and drill new frame holes were it needs to be? or are they so far back that they'd be hanging half way off the frame?
another thing to consider...does the stock low mount ac compressor interfere with the frame if the motor is installed back far enough for the f-body pan to clear?
this is why i went with the dirty dingo sliders on my 75 nova build... used the stock frame/clamshell mounts and then put the motor where i wanted it and locked it down. but same consideration...if it has to be too far back the mounts and frame may interfere with the compressor but there are solutions for that also (notch the frame or run a compressor moved forward to run off the same belt as the other accessories)
can you do what was suggested previously and bolt the mounts to the block, set things in place and drill new frame holes were it needs to be? or are they so far back that they'd be hanging half way off the frame?
07-03-2018, 03:10 PM
#7
These guys have figured it all out and have the parts that you need....
http://www.brphotrods.com/products/7...cts/index.html
KW
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07-03-2018, 05:58 PM
#8
I had a similar issue with BRP mounts and fbody pan in my 2nd gen F body. I had my pan notched an inch since the engine was already in (with Lh8 pan) and Holley was not making the new pans yet. The ctsV pan fits but it hangs lower than fbody pan. I'd research the Holley pans, buy one, sell your fbody one. The place that notched my pan is no longer in business.
i didn't feel comfortable notching crossmember AND I'd need to move front brake lines
good luck, stay with it! Making good progress!
Leon
i didn't feel comfortable notching crossmember AND I'd need to move front brake lines
good luck, stay with it! Making good progress!
Leon
07-04-2018, 04:28 PM
#9
I am using the BRP engine and transmission mounts. It's not quite as "figured out" as the website seems to indicate. I'm not saying it's a total loss yet, however the engine mounts didn't line up with my frame holes and the transmission mount is going to require drilling new holes in the frame.
After doing a lot of reading, I ordered a Holley 302-3 oil pan. Updates will be here:
1978 Caprice Aerocoupe Build Thread
After doing a lot of reading, I ordered a Holley 302-3 oil pan. Updates will be here:
1978 Caprice Aerocoupe Build Thread
07-05-2018, 07:35 PM
#11
I'm using the transmission crossmember kit from BRP. The big problem with drilling new holes is that (without pictures this is very difficult to describe) there is a part of he mount which needs to go on top of the frame. The only way to mark where the bolt holes would be to hold the mount in place and mount in place to use as a template for where the bolts should go. Then you can't see where you have marked because the marks would be hidden inside the frame. Because of the shape, you can't hold the mount on the bottom side of the frame and mark the holes. You're basically guessing where the holes need to go.