When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got the system in 2010, and first ecm "fried" due to what was known as "fly-back" voltage. Came around a corner, floored it and POOF....ecm was dead. Known common issue. Wasn't even boosted at the time. 2nd ecm would not connect to laptop via USB for whatever reason, could only communicate with the CAN wiring thankfully (was able to get by with the 3.5" touchscreen). Since then its been mostly OK.
I got the system in 2010, and first ecm "fried" due to what was known as "fly-back" voltage. Came around a corner, floored it and POOF....ecm was dead. Known common issue. Wasn't even boosted at the time. 2nd ecm would not connect to laptop via USB for whatever reason, could only communicate with the CAN wiring thankfully (was able to get by with the 3.5" touchscreen). Since then its been mostly OK.
Fly back voltage is a legitimate concern and not a "known issue." It is a result of poor wiring practices and will potentially damage any ECU. OEMs take great care to mitigate this from happening by isolating devices, that can generate flyback voltage, with relays.
Fly back voltage is a legitimate concern and not a "known issue." It is a result of poor wiring practices and will potentially damage any ECU. OEMs take great care to mitigate this from happening by isolating devices, that can generate flyback voltage, with relays.
Andrew
Do me a favor and spare me the BS of wiring is the cause of all issues known to man
There was an known internal design/manufacturing issue with the ECM period which has since been rectified and handled by Holley properly.
Yea looks like it. For 1/5 the price of the dash. Good option if you don’t want their dash but want extra inouts and outputs.
1/5? The 6.86 pro dash was under $800 not too long ago, I couldn't pass it up at that price. But I agree not everyone wants the dash, but I like it a lot more than the racepaks, holley 7.5, and other related offerings.
1/5? The 6.86 pro dash was under $800 not too long ago, I couldn't pass it up at that price. But I agree not everyone wants the dash, but I like it a lot more than the racepaks, holley 7.5, and other related offerings.
True i was comparing it to the 12" screen which is about $1500 last i checked. I have a racepak in my camaro and agree, the holley offerigns look better. I'll change mine up eventually but i dont want the 6.86, i want the 12 if i did digital and it doesn't fit in a 69 dash easily.
For the C10, I like traditional gauge look more than screens in old cars. Dakota digital makes a nice cluster that uses a BIM to interface directly with the terminator. I'll report back on how well i like it when they finally start delivering back ordered parts (Dakota Digital).
1/5? The 6.86 pro dash was under $800 not too long ago, I couldn't pass it up at that price. But I agree not everyone wants the dash, but I like it a lot more than the racepaks, holley 7.5, and other related offerings.
Originally Posted by will69camaro
True i was comparing it to the 12" screen which is about $1500 last i checked. I have a racepak in my camaro and agree, the holley offerigns look better. I'll change mine up eventually but i dont want the 6.86, i want the 12 if i did digital and it doesn't fit in a 69 dash easily.
For the C10, I like traditional gauge look more than screens in old cars. Dakota digital makes a nice cluster that uses a BIM to interface directly with the terminator. I'll report back on how well i like it when they finally start delivering back ordered parts (Dakota Digital).
I have a custom dash with Autometer gauges in my GTO already, so I can't use any of the DD gauges. The 6.86" dash is a little small for my taste, while the 12" dash is too big for the space that I have available. My plan is to use Holley analog speedometer, tach, and fuel level gauges, and use the 6.86" dash off to the side a little for the secondary gauges as well as certain switch functionality. For instance, I have a stereo system that doesn't use a head-unit, so I plan to use the switches on my 6.86" dash to turn the stereo on and off. I can probably get creative and integrate AC controls into the dash, but that's just something that popped into my head.
This is my current dash layout:
The fuel level will go in the center where the AF ratio gauge currently lives.
That'll work well and functionality to run stereo off that without a head unit is nice. I have a bluetooth module in the C10 currently, and wishing they hadn't cut the dash for a radio...
Seems like that mimics the additional I/O provided by the Holley dash.
the outputs on the pro dash is only usable with the on screen buttons, the ecm cant control them and you cant trigger them with any other inputs, so no pwm, no fan control or automation. (when using with a termX, maybe different with dominator?)
the outputs on the pro dash is only usable with the on screen buttons, the ecm cant control them and you cant trigger them with any other inputs, so no pwm, no fan control or automation. (when using with a termX, maybe different with dominator?)
Not sure what you are trying to do, but you I can trigger logging from the screen and use the I/O's from the screen in the advanced tables which can most certainly do PWM boost control, rev limiters, traction control, etc in Term X.
i have a terminator x with 6.86 pro dash and i havent found a way to control the outputs on the dash any way except the on screen buttons. I also have not found a way to 'read' those buttons in the ecu. theres a youtube video showing how to do that with a dominator but when in terminator x mode the screen doesnt seem to allow it. when i make a virtual switch the drop down only gives the options for my named SSRs, not the 10 or so virtual switches. those named ssrs do not show up anywhere in the pc software that i can find. ive had one of them named since i got the dash and first started playing with it. that output shows up in the datalogs i make with the dash, i just cant find a way to use them in the tune.
holley documentation doesnt keep up with the software features either, so if theres a way to do it, id love to take advantage of it.
to be clear, i am only referring to the on board SSRs. i can see all the inputs, i use the gps speed for my boost control, i just cant find how to use the outputs. i really only need one more. im sure its something stupid and i wont even need that can io box i ordered
Last edited by TrendSetter; 04-02-2021 at 06:39 AM.
Yeah what's with Dakota Digital ? I'm at 10 weeks now and they tell me 3 to 4 more weeks out (through their Ebay seller). For a 69 Chevelle DXF cluster. Tony
i am just getting started on a race car build and have decided to go with drive by wire. It reduces the holes i need in the firewall, will simplify the motor by eliminating the cable which is a hassle to connect and remove, and the wiring will all still have to go to the pedal (brake and clutch switches) and tb anyway so it seems like a no brainer now that the tech/hardware is as good as it is these days.
i am just getting started on a race car build and have decided to go with drive by wire. It reduces the holes i need in the firewall, will simplify the motor by eliminating the cable which is a hassle to connect and remove, and the wiring will all still have to go to the pedal (brake and clutch switches) and tb anyway so it seems like a no brainer now that the tech/hardware is as good as it is these days.
Personally last place I want a DBW TB is on a race car. I've dealt with a few DBW race cars and the percentage of failure with them is too high to me, luckily most have had an issue with them staying closed and not open. I've sent logs to Holley that show the TB/pedal errors in certain conditions but so far I don't think they've done anything about it. I heard of one case where the DBW TB stuck open and Holley did offer some compensation to the owner. Either way a 1/4" hole that often already exists in many cars isnt a big deal. Not sure what your wiring to the Holley harness that needs to go to the clutch or brake switch? Also haven't had a cable that's a hassle to install, I don't have to remove my cable separately to remove my engine, 4 bolts and the throttle body and cable come off as an assembly and sit on the wiper cowl, slap engine back in, tighten 4 bolts and good to go.
03-30-2021 | 09:42 AM
