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Asking for a bit of OT help please

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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 03:59 PM
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Exclamation Asking for a bit of OT help please

Hey everyone, I'm hoping that I might be able to get a few suggestions for getting a "baked-in" O2 sensor out of this exhaust manifold. I've given it a couple shots of PB Blaster, started off trying to get it out with an open-end wrench, but when that was insufficient, I clipped off the electrical lead & slipped a deep-well socket (attached to a breaker bar) over it.

What's making me nervous - and what's prompted me to solicit a few suggestions - is that the corners on the O2 sensor seem to be rounding off... (Just for the record, yes, I did check/confirm that I was using the correct socket, I suspect that part of the rounding started with a "slightly-too-large" open end wrench that I discarded when I realized what was happening.) I really, REALLY don't want to be reduced to grabbing it with a set of vise-grips set on 'kill'...

I'm going back out there now to give the O2 sensor a couple of fairly-light taps with a hammer to see if I can break some of the corrosion up, & allow the PB Blaster to wick into the threads a bit more deeply - but I'd sure appreciate getting any tips I could from anyone else who's fought the same issue...

Thanks in advance guys.
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Cheese Weasel
Hey everyone, I'm hoping that I might be able to get a few suggestions for getting a "baked-in" O2 sensor out of this exhaust manifold. I've given it a couple shots of PB Blaster, started off trying to get it out with an open-end wrench, but when that was insufficient, I clipped off the electrical lead & slipped a deep-well socket (attached to a breaker bar) over it.

What's making me nervous - and what's prompted me to solicit a few suggestions - is that the corners on the O2 sensor seem to be rounding off... (Just for the record, yes, I did check/confirm that I was using the correct socket, I suspect that part of the rounding started with a "slightly-too-large" open end wrench that I discarded when I realized what was happening.) I really, REALLY don't want to be reduced to grabbing it with a set of vise-grips set on 'kill'...

I'm going back out there now to give the O2 sensor a couple of fairly-light taps with a hammer to see if I can break some of the corrosion up, & allow the PB Blaster to wick into the threads a bit more deeply - but I'd sure appreciate getting any tips I could from anyone else who's fought the same issue...

Thanks in advance guys.
Sounds like it’s time to break out the flame wrench.
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 05:05 PM
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Warm things up to temp w the engine.
Grab cooling spray or R134 or desk duster. Cool the sensor.

Tighten it with a 6 point wrench to loosen. Then loosen it out.

Grew up where salt was used . . .
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
Sounds like it’s time to break out the flame wrench.
Aaarrrrrrrrrgggggghhhhhh... Seriously NOT what I was hoping to hear - not least because I don't have a flame wrench...

Are you suggesting to just heat that connection up?? If that's the case, I have a MAPP gas torch that would probably suffice...

Thanks for the reply Toddoky.
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 05:15 PM
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A impact gun will break a lot of stuff loose you'll never bust loose by hand.
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 05:20 PM
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Yes, heat up the area adjacent to the bung with your MAPP torch and give it a shot.
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by showdog75
A impact gun will break a lot of stuff loose you'll never bust loose by hand.
Originally Posted by Toddoky
Yes, heat up the area adjacent to the bung with your MAPP torch and give it a shot.
Awesome, thanks guys - I'll give the impact gun a shot at it, & if that doesn't work, then I'll warm it up a bit...
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 06:06 PM
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A mix of 50% acetone / 50% ATF works much better than common penetrant fluid.
Just saying. It might be worth a try if other attempts fail
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
A mix of 50% acetone / 50% ATF works much better than common penetrant fluid.
Just saying. It might be worth a try if other attempts fail
Huh. I'll write that down so that I can give it a try some time!!
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 06:18 PM
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Anyway, I got it, and it turned out that no heat or impact gun was needed.

Success was a combination of the "love taps" from the hammer, some extra time away from the project (thanks to a brief thunderstorm that convinced me to go inside for a little while) and the discovery of an extra-long breaker bar that I didn't recall having (part of the tools that I inherited from my dad). Once I got back to it, I gave it a go using the extra-long breaker bar, & was rewarded with the "CREAK" sound that everyone who's worked with rusted parts is familiar with.

Again, thanks for the tips guys, I'll write 'em down & keep them in my back pocket for the next time I need them!
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jmd
Warm things up to temp w the engine.
Grab cooling spray or R134 or desk duster. Cool the sensor.

Tighten it with a 6 point wrench to loosen. Then loosen it out.

Grew up where salt was used . . .
HOW on earth did I not see this post?? Some great tips there jmd, thank you!
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