Marinegrunt513

Aside from the Obvious please don’t beat up on me too badly. What are the pros and cons on swapping these motors. I’m currently working on a 85 C10. I know it’s not an F-Body but you guys are the experts and I’ll take my lashings if I can get some help. Currently I have a few motors sitting around at the shop one being a LQ9 6.0L I believe a 2006? Not positive I’ll have to look. The other a 2005 5.3 out of Silverado both with stupid low miles. I think the high one is like 88,000. I have a local yard I deal with get all their LS motors first and dirt. Anyway besides being the bigger displaced engine are their any pros or cons with either?

B52bombardier1

I guess I'd go big if the dollars are not greatly different. I would have picked a 6.0 if the price was right but settled for a nicely running 5.3 liter at a good price. At 88,000 miles max, either motor that you note above has many miles of useful life remaining as long as they were not abused.

If its convenient and you have a good engine stand, I'd crank both engines (no start) and see what you get for cylinder compression (throttle body held wide open) and cold oil pressure. Pick the best of the two based on these performance checks. Make sure both engines have oil before running these checks, of course.

Do any spark plugs look sooty, black, oily or wet? Since it appears that you have the time and good access to these engines, run these checks and get the pick of the litter.

Rick

Marinegrunt513

Rick,

first thanks for the response and second I’m stupid to have not elaborated further about where im at with the engines and how far I’ve gotten. My shop ran comp. and leak tests. I have start up stands and they both trim perfectly well. I know the history very well my “supplier” as it were is someone I’ve done business with for quite some time. These motors are drop in ready and fully functional. I just didn’t know if any specific hang ups people had with certain motors but I thank you for the insight and your time replying.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Always go with the bigger engine if all else is the same, There really isn't a downside in this case.

mcculleyman1

The LQ9 has a higher compression ratio, so that would be the only downside if you want to go boost. Otherwise, if you have both of them on-hand I'd go with the LQ9. I wish I had 2 engines to choose from

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I would try to get an Aluminum engine, L33 or something

100lbs is on the table, on the nose, on the scales, it counts for something

JoeNova

Almost sounds like you're getting the engines from Fodor.

LQ9 for N/A, 5.3 for boost.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

If the application is N/A I would get a 6.2+L aluminum engine, or 7L, 6L iron is meh. Lots of people complain about going from 5.7aluminum LS engine to 6.0, hate the weight.

mcculleyman1

It looks like the recipient is a C10 so I'm not sure if that 100lbs would really matter. A Miata, yeah, for sure.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

And it's still lighter than the SBC that would have been in it.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I just think of the thousands of dollars people spend to drop 100lbs in other areas of a vehicle.
Whereas you can drop 100lbs here for low cost.

saying 'its already 5000 lbs so it won't matter' well, do I need to keep going...
If you later spend $3000 on a set of wheels to drop 5lbs or $800 on some kind of tubular suspension or whatever, holy **** how dumb is that

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Its a C10 I doubt he's dropping $3000 to save a few pounds on wheels lol. That would be dumb. If he was that concerned about weight he wouldn't start with 5000lb truck.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

You are right, but i feel that you are not seeing the big picture

If he turns down 100lbs this early in the game at low cost, lets say $1000 = 100lbs, so $100 = 10lbs of weight savings, or $10 per pound removed.
That means he can almost NEVER buy weight saving parts for the vehicle, ever again, unless he does at least $10/1lb or better.

Because that money/weight savings ratio must be beat for all future purchases. Otherwise he will wish he did it in the first place.

Its all about spending $$ effectively. If you set some kind of standard ($10/1lb) then turn it down, you can't go back and change your mind later when it dawns on you that it costs way more than $10 to remove 1lb from any drivetrain part.

It is statistically relevant which is why I bring it up

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

That's the only part of your post I read because as usual you're trying to turn a simple topic into a **** show......That's the picture I see clearly.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Hmm I think he is just bad at math and gets angry everytime anyone uses it to make a point



I Love you guys but seriously. if somebody posts up numbers to make a valid point even in the search of 1% efficiency,

that is the essence of high performance. Some are looking for 1% because thats all they can get at this point, it makes all the difference from one identical setup to the next, puts the nose of your vehicle ahead of all the others by just 1%

G Atsma

Here's the point- IT'S A TRUCK. 100# is not an issue. In a small car, yes. Usually not in a pickup. You don't put aluminum wheels on a truck to save weight. It's because they look real nice...

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

meh, I don't see a truck. A truck is just a car that looks different.
There are many cars that weight 4000lbs~ and you would definitely want to lose 100lbs off the nose of that thing.

So if this is about total weight, at what point do you say "IDGAF" about weight? 4100lbs? 3500lbs? Where is the tipping point for not 'caring' about 100 extra pounds here or there? Is it really car vs truck debate?

I feel like if a 3000# car was well balanced even with the additional 100lbs I would get "its already light enough, it doesn't need to lose the 100#"
And if the car is 5000# I get "Its already so heavy, it doesn't need to lose the 100#"

In reality the lost weight is always a bonus as it:
1. improves handling
2. improves braking
3. improves economy
And in this case its also
4. very easy and affordable to lose 100#

whether 3000lbs or 5000lbs I see no difference, no reason not to lose that weight.
Maybe I am biased because I have experienced the iron behemoth, and it left me mentally scarred, I'll never use another iron block again... there is no reason for it. L33 5.3 does 800rwhp like nothing apparently. Why on Earth would anyone accept anything that weighs more and puts up with less or same?

I feel like people think just because its a 'truck' it doesn't need the performance boost of weight savings... this is some kind of mentally blockage against having a lighter truck?

G Atsma

Come on Talon, start thinking PRACTICALLY instead of THEORETICALLY. Iron block engines are far easier to find AND buy. And in something as heavy as a truck(OR full-sized car) 100# is NOT noticed. In a small car the difference IS noticeable. It's all relative. You can find iron 5.3 and 6.0 engines all day, and far cheaper than their aluminum counterparts.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Okay I concede that you are thinking practically, sure.
But I still feel like, in your minds there is some kind of cutoff point "If it weighs exactly 4499lbs or more, it doesn't benefit much from losing 100# but if its less than 3999lbs it does, and if its in between those two the vehicle is a marshmallow."

yeah

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Jeez king - he’s SITTING on 2 motors, low miles, tested, ready to go in. Neither of them is aluminum block. HE DOESN’T HAVE A LOW MILE ALUM BLOCK SITTING IN THE SHOP READY TO GO. If he did, he wouldn’t be asking us for counsel between the 5.3 and the 6.0. He’d put the alum block in. Your Capt Obvious tendencies are shining bright.

marinegrunt - put in the 6.0L. All upside.