reedld

iTrader: (7)

Having an O2 issue. My driver side O2 connector got bumped, dragged, and broke. I purchased a new O2 sensor and soldiered in the GM end connector . The actual O2 part (Bosch 13444) is completely intact, no cuts. I am still getting a drivers side code. I’ve tested the heater circuit in O2 (in ohms) and getting 4 ohms. The extension part I soldiered...should these connections be crimped as well?


fixed it, it IS the fact I used solder. Can’t use it any part of the line. Crimps all the way.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear you got it fixed. maybe a bad solder connection was the problem? Solder was definitely not the issue.

reedld

iTrader: (7)

I would think soldering would not be an issue but that is not the case. I double, triple checked all the connections (soldered ones)...check engine light as soon as it starts. I disconnected the battery for at least 15 minutes in between starts.

I was missing both the male and female ends of the O2 connection. The new bosch O2 had the male...and I bought an extension cable (commonly used when LS swap people delete rear O2s and their fronts dont have enough length). I stopped at the salvage yard and picked up a late model GM O2 connector just to eliminate the new plug (keep it all GM, and I like the little lock tab the factory GM ones have).

It took as long to crimp the 4 wires, connect the battery, turn key (watch for MIL to come on), as soon as I fired it up...the light went off. I'll bet I didnt even need to buy a new O2, just crimp leads on old one. I did measure the resistance of the old one (heater circuit) and it read 4 ohms (I think within spec)

I have read multiple sites and what I think is the solder creates just at tad different resistance to create an issue. The PCM is looking for a very small difference and with solder I think it is easy to do. This issue was as simple as 4 butt connectors. I dislike using them and prefer to solder and heat shrink but that is not the case with O2.

I am not a fan of butt connectors and I may repin my PCM over the winter. Use rear O2 wiring but pinned into front of PCM. The rear wiring is the same and is located near the rear of the transmission.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

There's nothing wrong with soldering and shrink wrapping an O2 circuit. I've actually added 8 feet to a complete engine harness before with no issues. You had to of had a bad connection somehow. As far as ohms go a soldered connection is less resistive then a butt connector but the difference is probably un-measurable. I would certainly look into getting those butt connectors out of there, especially if you are in a wet climate.

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

This, or a chafed wire you didn't see somewhere...there's no way the solder had anything to do with it...

And especially this.

reedld

iTrader: (7)

I hear you...but I have to disagree only because as soon as I removed the solder and crimped...my MIL went off. Lots of info out there about not soldering ( I.E. from Bosch, Porsche forums)The previous owner (electrical engineer) spliced extensions with solid (like home) wire. At first I was like what?? Now I know. My solder skills are not the best in the world...but still very good. My splices are tight, and my shrink wrap slips over the joint very snug. No large gobs of solder dripping off splice. I wonder if it’s ok to solder farther away from the O2...all my work was done within 24-30 inches of O2.

crimps are not my favorite but think about this...our engine harness wires have at least 2 crimps at each end. Done properly they are not to be worried about. This is not an argument...YOU ARE WRONG reply...appreciate the feedback. I’m just saying what worked for me. Same connection soldered causes MIL, remove and butt connectors, no MIL.

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

Fair enough...no malice intended on my end. I'm glad it worked out for you.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

I see you are in NY. If you plan on keeping the butt connectors then look into some of the hot melt adhesive butt connectors so it's at least weatherproof.

Haggar

The usual reason not to solder is that many O2 sensors rely on air passage through the strands of copper to provide a atmospheric reference sample to the sensor. A nicely done solder joint and heat shrink can completely plug that up and cause issues, butt connectors and crimps still allow some air molecules to move through. Depending on how someone soldered, or depending on the sensor itself, it might or might not cause an issue. Some have a pinhole in the body somewhere to let in reference air, but it's easy for that to get clogged/blocked, so they often go through the wire itself.