If the cam was off that far your compression reading would likely be much lower.

 

I'm in late on this, so excuse me if I'm asking ?'s already introduced.
This: "They have since been sitting for about 2 years".
And this: when I first start to crank the engine it fires on one or two cylinders then stops.
Very possible there are some stuck injs.
Noid light the injs.
Check for coil pulse.
Is the ign wired correctly, so the system is hot in crank and run key positions?

 

Ignition is hot in run and crank. Checked it the other day.

Engine did not run differently with new injectors.

I know injectors are firing as I've pulled them and had them spray on a paper towel while turning the engine over.

Now this was a while back, but that confirms injectors are wired correctly.

 

I would have bought 2 of both lol. On my swap i was having a no start issue. I replaced the crank sensor with a brand new one from oriellys but cant remember why i did. Id have to go back in my post and look. I replaced it and still had a no spark issue. I spent HOURS for about 5 days trying to figure it out. Out of boredom i put the old crank sensor back in. After about 3 seconds of cranking it fired up. The brand new crank sensor was no good. Apparently thats a big thing to is those brand new sensors not being any good.

 

Oh fantastic. I bought a Delphi one. So hopefully it will be right. Lmao

 

You could possibly have gotten the ecu programmed with a “corrupt” file. I have done about 30 of these swaps and one had this issue. It started and ran but was very rich. I checked, but a reprogram was needed. It should be noted that it wasn’t a stock tune, but the friend of mine who did it said the file was corrupt.

 

Okay guys, changed both. No start. Still fires on two cylinders then just cranking.

Every every once and a while it would fire a cilinder, but no start. Crankshaft sensor smelled like gas when I pulled it out so I'm guessing that's gas running into the crank case from it not starting and just spraying fuel.

I know I'm getting fuel. It smells like fuel after cranking. I'm at a loss.

 

That still sounds like a sensor or spark issue. Pull a spark plug wire at a time and crank it. See which ones spark and which ones don't. Do you have the engine and chassis grounded correctly?

 

This has me so frustrated I'm looking at Chevy performance connect and cruise. But those are like 15k. So probably not.

 

The harness is grounded to bodyThe jeep harness is grounded to the bodyThe block is grounded from the engine mount bolt to the battery, which is also grounded to the frame.
I also grounded the block to the same body ground point with both harnesses

 

I'd say it's grounded lol. Go through the coils and see if each one sparks during cranking.

 

what happens when you pull the fuel pump fuse and use starting fluid to try and start?

 

Have not tried yet. Was hoping for a miracle with these sensors... I' was sure it would start.

It's currently at the exhaust shop and the guy told me it would be nearly impossible to get the exhaust on because he can't get it onto his lift if it doesn't run. I assumed it didn't run purely because the front O2 sensors weren't hooked up. So I don't want to really start it with starter fluid and it backfire and catch his place on fire.

Might be irrational, but a guy in my town growing up burned his house down starting a car with either gas or starter fluid in his garage.

 

Hey boss, just curious, did you rebuild the engine before the swap? or pulled it, rebuilt it and then swapped. What was it that you replaced/rebuilt? you stated the engine ran fine before so was curious on when the rebuild occured.

For the electronics, it sounds like the only difference is you sent the PCM out for a tune and using Novaks harness (which i have used before with no issues, high quality company). is this correct?

I would focus on more what has changed from before the swap.
Engine rebuild, you said this was your first, could be something wrong. which is fine, we all learn
Ohm out the wiring harness, pin to pin. wire breaks can happen during shipping and installation.
PCM/Tune, this does scream VATS to me or the tune/file is just trash.

 

I did get an aftermarket harness one time that had been wired incorrectly into the pcm. It was an LT1 harness that had the coil wire polarity reversed, 4 shops and thousands of dollars in labor and parts later, he bought it to me, and I went through it and switched the 2 coil wires and Bob’s your uncle. Never used an aftermarket harness since.

 

Rebuilt the engine after pulling from junkyard. So all tests have been completed on completely rebuilt engine. Didn't rebuild valves, those sealed well. But bottom end and cam is new. Pistons, rings, bearings etc.

You're correct. Pcm was sent to lt1 swap.com guy and harness to Novak to rework.

I told myself If I get 10,000 miles out of this engine I'll be happy. It was a learning experience and wasn't really fun to do because of the stress of keeping everything clean. Plus one of the oil rings was squished between the ring compressor and the piston and left a mark on the cylinder wall. It seems to have sealed up well as there's no compression problem, but I could have ruined the engine. So never again. LOL
Im going to get the computer looked at by a local tuning shop and see if everything in it matches what my setup is.

 

Have you verified spark at every coil yet? are your rockers too tight? any bent push rods? I don't see how itd be anything internal. It should at least run. If its internal itd just run horribly and make noises but i don't see the timing chain or cam keeping it from running.

 

sounds similar to coil harnesses on wrong sides of engine. try flipping them side to side.

 

I have not. Not yet.

 

My issue with that was that it did at one point run. So it should be on the correct sides. That is a great idea though.