LSswap

What ends are those? Ears look tiny.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Quick Performance is a good company, I rebuilt my 9" with their internals, and the process and timeline were great.

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

I'll be curious how driveshaft angles and clearance are with the 9" compared to the 12 bolt.

Jimbo1367

I would imagine the drive shaft is gonna be shorter, which saves $$$ vs a whole new DS. Quick Performance seems to get a lot of LS1techs viewers

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Looks great Andrew! That should hold the power you will be making. I used QP when I rebuild my 12 bolt and Andrew is right, the sales guys are very knowledgeable and they had the best prices around.

the450r

iTrader: (1)

The 9" has a lower pinion than the 12 bolt you shouldnt have the pinion angle and floor clearance issues you had with the 12 bolt. I have a quick Performance 9" without the back brace. What's the center section details?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Small GM ends, same as a 2002 Camaro. This way I can retain my 2002 Camaro brakes.

I don't care much about driveline angles anymore, because I will be using a dual CV driveshaft from The DriveShaft Shop.

Center section is the Yukon aluminum bolt through with an Eaton 35 spline TrueTrac and 3.25 gears, with the CV pinion yoke, pictured earlier.

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Not sure why these images are rotated, but you get the idea.
Got a Mighty Mouse catch can, set up for boost.



I love global trade. This is a Pierburg CWA150 pump that I got from Tecomotive in Germany. Four days to my door. Amazing!



The CWA150 is a high pressure version of the CWA100 and outflows many of the available pumps on the market. It is also said to be very quiet and will be PWM controlled through the Holley Dominator.



It should fit perfectly on the Volt fan shroud. The little cradle at the bottom, between the fans used to house a similar water pump on the Volt.



Andrew

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I was super impressed with my MM catch can for boost.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Vic has been making progress on getting the heat exchanger, fans, and condenser mounted to the radiator.






I also mocked up the CWA150 pump against the fan shroud and it looks like it will fit nicely in the location where the Volt used to have a similar pump.












The CWA150 pump is a little smaller in diameter than the cradle, but I think a little 3D printed cradle will make up the difference nicely and will allow me to offset the pump off to the side a little.

Andrew

jrs396

Andrew, pardon my ignorance but what is that pump being used for ? Did I miss something ?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I'm going to use a Tick intercooler brick sandwiched between a Holley Low Ram and a HiRam top. There will be a heat exchanger in the front. This pump will circulate the water in the whole system.

Andrew

jrs396

Got it thanks..
your skills sets are amazing, especially your search skill. You find all the tools, parts and information.
I wish I had the computer skills.

Mine are strictly wrenching. I'm deeply immersed in your builds, plus ryeguy and kwhizz as I'm about to start my own 1967 Chevelle project.

Thank you for sharing all of your talents and very though documentation.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the kind words! I learned a lot building the Cougar, especially on the wiring side. I try to search out as many modern OEM solutions as possible and utilize them in my builds.

Today I was thinking about power distribution under the hood. I need to power both fans as well as the water pump, plus boost solenoids, and no doubt other things I haven't even thought about. My usual go to product is the Bussmann power distribution modules, but those are like unobtanium these days. Also, I don't really need relays to switch the power, because the fans and the water pump are PWM controlled. I just need a way to neatly take battery power and distribute the power to various devices and have fuses. So I found this guy on the Waytek website:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/8202...Profile-JCASE/

It is about 2.5x4 inches and has a nice cover. It also uses Molex connectors for the lower load devices, while also giving me stud mounts for higher amp devices. I plan to run the fans off each of the studs and the water pump and boost solenoids off one of the connectors, leaving me with 6 other ports for anything else that I might need.

Andrew

jrs396

Kudos again
Thanks for sharing all your research !
Now I'm going to have to go back thru the cougar thread...again. This time I have a notebook to note page numbers of information I need and whatever other pertinent information to look up

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

To keep engine bay temperatures down and to help the turbo retain heat, I got these turbo and waste gate blankets from Funk Motorsports in the UK. They look great and fit very well.












Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Today was almost 70 degrees and I couldn't let this day pass by. This project isn't going to get done by itself. So I went to Harbor Freight and got a new air compressor after realizing that my old one has seized up. Got a new hose, some fittings, and a few odds and ends and went work. I asked if they had "bailing wire" and the girl looked at me like I was crazy. Then I described what it was and she said, we have this...Apparently now days bailing wire is called "mechanics wire" and it is stainless. Who knew...?



The in between pictures didn't turn out so good because of the bright sunshine, but here are the pictures after 6 hours when I brought them into the house.









I am really happy with how everything turned out. Like, really happy!

Andrew

theunderlord

Looks awesome! You thinking of doing the valve covers too? Or thinking of staying with the red?

G Atsma

Baling wire... WayBack Machine just pegged itself.. actually our family dairied for a few decades, and baling wire figured in most of the early ones, UNTIL nylon baling twine took over due to superior strength but still could cut with a knife. But yeah, I used non-rusted baling wire for a BUNCH of things, including part of my '63 VW throttle linkage. Handy stuff. Wire coat hangers just didn't fab up the same... lol

the450r

iTrader: (1)

In my experience the mechanics wire at the parts stores is thinner gauge than bailing wire. Very easy to bend and shape. But if your trying to install Corvette shocks you have to double it up to keep the shock compressed or it will snap. Bailing wire would of been safer. I grew up also using bailing wire or electric fence wire. We used number 9 wire for the heavy duty stuff. It was like bending a solid brake line. 3/16 maybe.