73 Cuda LS Swap
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
Heres some more pictures now that its day light. The pic of the back of the transmission is showing how you cant go any higher with the transmission given pinion angle (which i've never dealt with) and because the driveshaft itself after the yoke (depending on diameter) would hit the floor. Of course you could just cut the whole trans tunnel from the firewall back to the rear floor but i don't need to. This is all set exactly where it should bolt up. I got in touch with a kid in my Facebook group Pro Touring Buildz whom has an LS turbo swapped 69 Charger and he confirmed that my engine tilt and crank pulley space from the K member is exactly like his and he drives his car all the time. So, technically i could figure out lowering the front of the engine a tad bit more, probably with a set of solid mopar engine mounts as that would take out the rubber from the mount which is an inch or so thick but im perfectly fine with how it all sits right now. Next is trans mount, then pull everything back out, clean it up, paint it, and do at bare minimum an oil pump on the 4.8. Only because anyone thats been in the LS world long enough knows, you always go ahead and just put a new oil pump in the motor while its out lol. You should also do lifters but i really don't want to take the heads off unless i absolutely have to.
Also, if anyone would like to donate to the "**** of every Mopar purist Organization" I am in the market for a ready to go harness and computer for a early 2000s DBC truck 4.8/5.3. Might also need another truck intake with injectors and fuel rail ready to bolt on, i don't need the throttle body. Will need a set of aftermarket shorty headers. I don't care about new shiny parts or anything remotely close to that, this is a ratty car and it will stay that way for the most part.
screen capture program
Also, if anyone would like to donate to the "**** of every Mopar purist Organization" I am in the market for a ready to go harness and computer for a early 2000s DBC truck 4.8/5.3. Might also need another truck intake with injectors and fuel rail ready to bolt on, i don't need the throttle body. Will need a set of aftermarket shorty headers. I don't care about new shiny parts or anything remotely close to that, this is a ratty car and it will stay that way for the most part.
screen capture program Last edited by 78TranzAm; Jul 3, 2021 at 03:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
So update. Kinda skipping from where i left off to where its at now as i didn't really take any pics along the way although there really wasnt any other pics to take aside from the 2 spots i had to dent the headers to make them fit so, heres how the engine has come along. Bolted in, and about 90% complete. I will be hooking up the external pump/fuel system this weekend. If i can figure out where the wiring harness goes (no instructions came with the $216 harness lol) then i might be able to get it running this weekend and find out if the engine is junk or not since i never heard it run. Fingers crossed
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
Thanks! ill keep you in mind. Only issue is im a cheapo so... lol. Where about in Tx are you?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
Well this is where it sits as i figure out the no spark issue and no fuel injector firing issue im having. Got excited to fire it up today but of course it cant be that simple.
My coil pack harness and fuel injectors are getting 12v but no ground? I posted in the Gen 3 category here in hopes someone can help me figure this out.
Also, at first i had all of my switches ran to the 40+yr old relay stud so, i thought that for the first time ever in owning a **** box id make it a little safer and added the fuse panel in place of that relay lol.
My coil pack harness and fuel injectors are getting 12v but no ground? I posted in the Gen 3 category here in hopes someone can help me figure this out.
Also, at first i had all of my switches ran to the 40+yr old relay stud so, i thought that for the first time ever in owning a **** box id make it a little safer and added the fuse panel in place of that relay lol.
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So update. Kinda skipping from where i left off to where its at now as i didn't really take any pics along the way although there really wasnt any other pics to take aside from the 2 spots i had to dent the headers to make them fit so, heres how the engine has come along. Bolted in, and about 90% complete. I will be hooking up the external pump/fuel system this weekend. If i can figure out where the wiring harness goes (no instructions came with the $216 harness lol) then i might be able to get it running this weekend and find out if the engine is junk or not since i never heard it run. Fingers crossed
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
What doesn't make sense is the very first time i plugged the harness into the computer i wasn't getting spark but i was getting power AND ground to the coil pack harness then after that one time i haven't gotten it again?
Just my luck.... This is why i always prefer carb swaps lol
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
damn, that’s a deal. Is it a 3 wire hookup? Thanks
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
So after the past 3 days, 6+ hours a day, and a brand new harness, i've finally got the Cuda running. The problem was the BRAND NEW CRANK SENSOR.... Im not surprised as thats just how my luck goes with vehicles lol. But it was pure boredom and curiosity that led me back to the crank sensor. After i put the new one in i automatically assumed the issue was either harness or computer. I had nothing else to check and was ready to order a new computer when i said "might as well just see if the crank sensor plug is getting power". And while i was touching it with the multi meter, there was one terminal that would make a noise on the engine when i touched it and it kind of sounded like sparking so i just stuck the old crank sensor back in and surprise surprise. After about 5 seconds of cranking it fired up! Cant explain the relief i felt, i had lost all hope lol. But now, i can undo all the jerry rigging i've done the past couple days with ground wires and just plugging stuff in. Next pics will be of everything mounted and as pretty as i care to get it in the engine bay.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
So the engine bay is basically complete now. Computer and fuse block mounted. Wires hidden the best i could get them. Wish i had taken a before picture so yall could really see how much of a mess it was while i was trying to figure out the no spark issue. But all in all even with the truck intake it looks perfect in there. Should have come this way from the factory... lol. And after unplugging things to re arrange the harness and other wires it still starts up so thankfully i didn't mess anything else up!
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 55
Likes: 5
Its nothing new to me. I've been teasing this swap since my Challenger last year and im done messing with the Mopar purist for entertainment lol. But one thing i've learned since being in the Mopar world is it doesn't matter what you do to your car, the internet purist are going to whine no matter what. Mopar is all about factory correct cars down to the nut and bolt. I've seen guys complain that a guy didn't leave his factory 6 cylinder car a 6 cylinder??? And i've seen guys go ape sh** over a guy putting a hellcat in a factory original AAR Cuda. And 9/10 the guys that complain haven't owned a Mopar since the 80s. Its the internet and i could care less what a stranger thinks about what i do with my money.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 248
Likes: 100
The picture didn't load but i know which one youre talking about, those are expensive! lol. I've come across a couple people that have ls swapped a mopar and they didn't have to cut the tunnel for their 4l60 but i think my engine sits higher then theres because of how i did the motor mounts so ill probably try to find a cheaper trans tunnel kit thats for a chevy and make it work like every other part so far or just get some metal and try to bend it. Haven't decided if im going to make it removable or not. I probably won't ever go any bigger than a 4l60.