6_7_camaro

I have a 67 camaro 327/T350 factory P/S, manual add on disc brakes
I now have a 2000 firebird LS1/6 pullout package and 67 manual pedal setup
I need some advice on What parts to do the install
I will be using BRP motor mounts for the swap
I am going to go with the Stainless works headers
problems I am looking at
* are the trans crossmembers available worth it? $150 form BRP
I know the T400 one can be modified to fit
I have moderate fabrication skills - I am looking for the least painful install
* does the LS1 power steering work with 67 chevy gear box
what has been done for the plumbing?
* clutch master came with engine and is cracked and missing reservoir
I know the GM unit comes complete, is it the best out there? I know
SnP solves the angle problem with a bracket
* I want to add power brakes as well. Does the SnP bracket allow
power brake booster - looks like it would interfere
* wire harness choice. I looked at Painless and SnP. I have
the OEM harness. I heard aftermarket harnesses do not require reprogram.
Is the 2000 trans am computer the best choice
* EGR emission control Of course I want to dump the smog stuff.
How will it effect the motor, and computer. Do I have to leave it in place
* A/C I want to leave the A/C in place on the engine and then add a
vintage air kit. Does a kit work with an LS1 compressor?
* Fuel sysytem Rock valley tanks are big bucks. I have a 2yr old
tank in the car right now. I understand you have to do something with the
fuel rails on the motor. I really dont know whether in tank or external is
better. I heard a part off a corvette can simplify the return line install
* driveshaft any sources?
* cooling I want a drop in radiator setup? any sources?
* shifter position I am 6'4"" and I sit way back. I still think the shifter
may sit too far back. Any suggestions?

I will be taking lots and lots of pictures when I tear into this. I want to accumulate the parts and then try to knock out the install in a few weekends.
Thanks in advance - This site rocks for tech info!

1971ssLS1

its a long list but ill give it a shot. As for the crossmember the extra money may be worth it-only for the fact that you do not need to spend any extra time measuring cutting and fabricating a new one. The clutch master you can go to any Gm dealership and order a new assembly, the bracket form S&P will work perfect for your app. and it will let you put a power brake booster. (i used it on my 71 and fits fine). There are plenty of wiring harness options S&P, painless, speartech, speed scene wiring, etc. I used speed scene, and it was a piece of cake to wire the motor up. They also did the computer programming and everything works awsome. Along with getting the ecu re-programmed and wiring harness re-worked, all of the emission equip. can be deleted and taken out, and everything will run fine.

1971ssLS1

also, the shifter location in these cars is perfect when you get the mounted in right. and a driveshaft will have to be meausred out and custom made with the yoke from the t-56 welded to the stk driveshaft(if you go the cheaper route)

6_7_camaro

thanks 1971ssLS1
I am going to get the trans crossmember from BRP
I will get the SnP clutch bracket now that I know it works on power brakes
What did you do for cooling on your 1971?

1971ssLS1

i used an 27.5" x 19" aluminum radiator with dual electric fans from a new camaro, but use whatever radiator will fit

patriot68

i wouldnt use speed scene..they screwed my buddies ecm up on his ws6 firebird..he had to take it to another place to get it fixed..i would use speartech for your harness

Tennessee Auto

iTrader: (11)

67 Camaro, you will have to convert the car to front steer. You can get the mounts, trans crossmember, power steering rack, steering coupler, front steer brackets, and mounting hardware for $1395 the Stainless Works headers only work on front steer cars. All the factory accessories will work then. Vintage are will send you a Sanden compressor which will work great. You will need a bracket for it to mount in the factory spot, or we also make one to move it on the front belt, so you do not have to notch the frame to remove the compressor while its on the car. Your factory harness will work great, but needs modified $380. Buy the Rock Valley tank. There is another fuel pump drop in but its no better than a external pump setup. The driveshaft can be made at local shops. The aluminum lines for the fuel system will need to be bent and flared by you. EGR is no problem to remove. Griffen or Be-Cool Radiator. The fans are no big deal. The wiring harness will come with both hi and low speed relays, and will be controlled by the pcm. The shifter location on the T56 is about perfect for me. We can make the t56 a mid shift like the Viper trans or you can use a dog bone, on the Shifter to move it up a couple inches. We use the factory 98-02 booster and master cylinder on the 67-69 and have brackets for both the clutch and booster to mount it at the right angle. The 4th gen pedals can also be modified to work. If you have anymore questions let me know.

6_7_camaro

I would change to the front steer setup except I rebuilt my front end with all PST parts and spend long hours blasting and powdercoting my front end pieces a year ago
I think I can mod the oil pan myself once I get the engine in and measured
Do the SnP headers work on non rack and pinion?
I did get the complete 2000 pedal set with the motor
I got a few emails saying go with speartech on wire harness / reprogram
vintage air says you need 13 1/4 in from the crank center to mount there sure fit kit with an LS1 -.....I never thought that I might no be able to pull off the compressor with the motor in
I looked at the TANKS Inc drop in module ..no welding.... but drilling holes in a used tank makes me wonder. My tank is only 2 yrs but there is always EBAY
I heard Griffin makes a radiator for 1st gen LS1 setups - they havn't got back to me yet

patriot68

alumrad.com, they build bad *** radiators..great prices too..hotrod68camaro had some pics of his posted a while back

LS1S10

I know no one has probably heard about him yet, but i got my engine management from Current Performance Wiring. The guys name is Jared who does the harness's and he makes EVERYTHING to your spec. Its more pricey than Painless, but less than S&P. Plus the quality is superb and he also uses GM spec wiring along with GM spec relays. It all comes in GM style wire loom with the proper unions, this deffinitely exceeds Painless and it comes ready to plug and play.

I only have ign. hot, ground, speedo, tach, fuel pump, electric fan, and backup light leads to splice in. He can wire it up for any accessory combo you need F or Y body, he can also add extra relay's or fuses into the harness for a little extra. I paid $650 for my harness and it was probably the best money spent for the swap. For a true factory look install, i would deffinitely go with Jared @ Current Performance.

datsbad

iTrader: (3)

you better be careful mixing parts together . i know some mounts are made for the front steering and such as with header choices

i have s&p headers , oil pan and a crossmember from fortes that i added a tab to it to bolt up the trans . i have a 5 speed tremec behind mine so the cross member could be different for you if you using a t-56 .

rock valley tank works great . corvette regulator at the rear and 6 an fuel line, speartech harness and computer program no complaints . everyone i dealt with on this never steered me wrong . i hade no problems putting this together . you better figure on $3,000 extra to get it installed . might be less if you cut corners .

oh yeah alumrad.com is the **** . he made mine the day i called sent it out the next day and i installed it 2 days later when it arrived .

i am building another car and i will use the same people for my stuff again . everyting works .

LS1S10

double post

6_7_camaro

I emailed alumrad.com - never heard of them before
THANKS for the info!
the pictures look like they make a great product

datsbad - what vehicle do you have the SnP headers on?

6_7_camaro

thanks for the alumrad.com info - shot them an email and I never heard of their company until now
Do you have the contact info for Current Performance Wiring
FYI - currecnt SnP prices from yesterday
headers coated.. 495
wire harness ......895
reprogram..........200 w/ wire harness purchase
modify oil pan.....200 exhange
chrome clutch bk 95
p/s hose adapts 30
the p/s adapets look pretty trick ...they screw into the 11/16 and 5/8 on the GM gear box and accept AN6 fittings...this way and can make my owm hoses

LS1S10

Sure do, check out his site and give him a call Jared's a cool guy to talk to. Tell him MetalJunkie from s10forum sent ya http://currentperformance.com/

67ls1camaro

I'm part way through my install of the LS1 in my 67. I used BRP's kit for the front steer as well as their motor mounts. The motor is in, the steering is in, and the SW longtube headers are installed. I think you have two options. You can do what I did, or keep the rear steer and the steering box and use the short headers (like from S&P). Now my guess is that you'll have to use S&Ps motor plates to move the motor back (something less than 2 inches) to allow the short headers to clear the steering box. I also got the modified oil pan from S&P. Looking at it installed with front steer, I might not have
had to use the modified oil pan. One more thing. Even with BRP's motor mounts which don't move the motor back, I had to cut the trans tunnel to get the T56 to fit. It wasn't too bad though. We cut a large section in one piece and then reinstalled the cut panel tilted up at the front. Then filled the gap with steel. BTW I used BRPs crossmember. Thought it was lightweight, but it worked.

Also, in case you decide to go front steer, send me an email, I can help.
You might also do this BEFORE you order the entire kit from BRP.

Steve1969LS1

iTrader: (1)

Be advide the BRP mounts REALLY move the engine forward.. we had to make a plate to move it back so the headers would clear the steering gearbox (i think they assume you will use rack/pinion if you use thier mounts)

Rock Valley fuel tank was great idea.. as was my Alumrad radiator with the in/out on the same side (crossflow)..

Also, dont use S&P's fuel system with the expensive modified fuel rail.. there is a better way..

6_7_camaro

I checked your site Steve1969LS1 - nice detail work on your motor
You had to set those mounts WAY back! Too bad I already ordered them. I never read anywhere how far forward they shove the motor
ever heard eight distribution? Duh!
Guess he never drove a first gen with a big block and tried to take a corner at 50 mph
SnP says they can relocate the A/C compresor to the upper pass side for $320
Anybody know if the SnP mounts have the same set back?

6_7_camaro

can you modify the BRP mounts and move the rubber mount to the rear on the mount plate?

Steve1969LS1

iTrader: (1)

Here is the deal.. IF you run the SnP mounts you cant run the factory AC bracket so you have to use thiers.. if you use thier AC bracket you need to use ALL thier brackets.. sorta pricy..

The BRP units move the motor forward so that you can use the factory F-body AC brackets.. I dont run AC or Heat so what do I care

SnP mounts move the engine back simulart to what I do.. they are pretty simple so you could just make your own (they are just flat offset plates)..

Thanks for the comments on my car