Almost done with my Fox Mustang/LS1 conversion. Pics inside.
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Almost done with my Fox Mustang/LS1 conversion. Pics inside.
Here's a link. Hope to make it to the track tonight or some time this weekend for sure!
http://www.dfwstangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192251
http://www.dfwstangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192251
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I've thought about doing that, but this car has seen too many fender benders to make an accurate jig for headers, etc.
My next one will be a never wrecked car and I do plan on doing something like that.
We're also working on a '66 Chevy II/LS1 conversion with the stock front end. I'll start posting pics and progress of it in here too.
My next one will be a never wrecked car and I do plan on doing something like that.
We're also working on a '66 Chevy II/LS1 conversion with the stock front end. I'll start posting pics and progress of it in here too.
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Originally Posted by Lane
Here's a link. Hope to make it to the track tonight or some time this weekend for sure!
http://www.dfwstangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192251
http://www.dfwstangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192251
Lane, where did you get the components to build that custom cold air intake? (rubber hoses/clamps) That looks sweet!!
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Originally Posted by 55LS1
Lane, where did you get the components to build that custom cold air intake? (rubber hoses/clamps) That looks sweet!!
Now that I know it's going to work fine(it seems) - I'll eventually smooth it out and get it ceramic coated. Same with the headers.
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#8
Jig for headers ??? If you wanna go cheap buy some shorty mustang headers, and buy ls1 header flanges from GM and just swap them (pretty simple with welder)
or just buy mustang longtubes for a 302 and swap the flanges....
or just buy mustang longtubes for a 302 and swap the flanges....
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Originally Posted by C4VetteLS1
Jig for headers ??? If you wanna go cheap buy some shorty mustang headers, and buy ls1 header flanges from GM and just swap them (pretty simple with welder)
or just buy mustang longtubes for a 302 and swap the flanges....
or just buy mustang longtubes for a 302 and swap the flanges....
Not everyone has the resources to do their conversion from scratch.
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Any track times?
This car is a ONE-OFF for sure! lol
I'll post the times up later tonight.
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Car was great! Felt pretty squirrely(sp?) when I first got up to speed on the highway, but eventually settled down real nice. Made the 45 minute trip to the track and let it cool down in the staging lanes. First time the tranny ever got warm enough to measure on the t-temp gauge. Stayed right at 160 - and everything else looked good.
The brakes are not right though - we've discovered the '83 master on these cars is quite a bit smaller than whats needed for '87+ brakes which it's got on the front. I need to go ahead and install the Aerospace brakes I have for the front..
With that issue, I was not able to do a decent burn-out at all... It just pushed the car all over the place with the brake pedal to the floor. Same with staging and trying to stall the Yank PT3800 - which felt perfect btw! Huge thanks to Mike for getting that to us so fast - and right in the middle of his move! :thumbup:
Stalled the converter up until the car started rolling and hit a 1.65 60, but the car felt good and went straight. The 1-2 came alot quicker than I expected and I probably short-shifted it. Keep in mind this is the first time I've EVER driven a manual valve body TH350 - and the cars FIRST WOT pass longer than 50 yards! lol Stayed in it and banged the rev-limiter right before the traps and it went 7.33 @ 89. Matching my best ever time at this particular track in my stock internal Z28 - in perfect weather.
Next pass - same thing on the burn-out and line. 1.67 60', banged the rev-limiter on the 1-2, but made the 2-3 cleanly and went 7.38, but at a much better 93.3 mph.
So, taking care of my brake issue will get the 60's solidly in the 1.5's. And staying off the rev-limiter, which almost ALWAYS cost me 2/10's in my Z, with practice shifting this thing and a shift light. Which will be my next purchase.. The car should run high 6's in the heat on motor. Pulley and exhaust. Another issue is the intake gets almost too hot to touch. That can't be good - so ceramic coating it, and somehow keeping the radiator heat away will be something I need to remedy.
The downside tonight? A bad injector o-ring, probably from the motor sitting so long decided to become a gusher on the drive home. Thank the Lord above I killed the motor right as I smelled it, which was also the time gas started hitting the windshield, and the gas didn't land on the headers and ignite.. Had to get a tow home... But even that was quick and painless.
This car is going to be insane with some tweaking and a cam and a 100 shot.
The brakes are not right though - we've discovered the '83 master on these cars is quite a bit smaller than whats needed for '87+ brakes which it's got on the front. I need to go ahead and install the Aerospace brakes I have for the front..
With that issue, I was not able to do a decent burn-out at all... It just pushed the car all over the place with the brake pedal to the floor. Same with staging and trying to stall the Yank PT3800 - which felt perfect btw! Huge thanks to Mike for getting that to us so fast - and right in the middle of his move! :thumbup:
Stalled the converter up until the car started rolling and hit a 1.65 60, but the car felt good and went straight. The 1-2 came alot quicker than I expected and I probably short-shifted it. Keep in mind this is the first time I've EVER driven a manual valve body TH350 - and the cars FIRST WOT pass longer than 50 yards! lol Stayed in it and banged the rev-limiter right before the traps and it went 7.33 @ 89. Matching my best ever time at this particular track in my stock internal Z28 - in perfect weather.
Next pass - same thing on the burn-out and line. 1.67 60', banged the rev-limiter on the 1-2, but made the 2-3 cleanly and went 7.38, but at a much better 93.3 mph.
So, taking care of my brake issue will get the 60's solidly in the 1.5's. And staying off the rev-limiter, which almost ALWAYS cost me 2/10's in my Z, with practice shifting this thing and a shift light. Which will be my next purchase.. The car should run high 6's in the heat on motor. Pulley and exhaust. Another issue is the intake gets almost too hot to touch. That can't be good - so ceramic coating it, and somehow keeping the radiator heat away will be something I need to remedy.
The downside tonight? A bad injector o-ring, probably from the motor sitting so long decided to become a gusher on the drive home. Thank the Lord above I killed the motor right as I smelled it, which was also the time gas started hitting the windshield, and the gas didn't land on the headers and ignite.. Had to get a tow home... But even that was quick and painless.
This car is going to be insane with some tweaking and a cam and a 100 shot.
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Did you get a raceweight with it Lane?? I really want to know the raceweight, congrats on the first runs, looks pretty strong. Good thing you caught on to the injector o-ring, seen older carb cars burn down due to small fuel leaks getting to the exhaust.
Clint
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I'll post the weight as soon as I get it. There's a few pounds of bondo on one quarter panel - otherwise it's about as stripped out as you can get. But, after the cage goes in, I'm going to cut out some more stuff to compensate.
The site the link is to is down...
The site the link is to is down...
#19
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Originally Posted by Lane
Not just headers. Motor mounts, tranny mount, intake. A jig to assemble a 'package', conversion kit. Like Hardtop mentioned.
Not everyone has the resources to do their conversion from scratch.
Not everyone has the resources to do their conversion from scratch.
Bruce
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Originally Posted by Hardtop
Make the kit Lane. When you add up all the time you would spend running the little BS parts down, I would just buy the kit and be done with it. I thought about your car when I saw that cherry 4 cylinder Stang on the side of the road this weekend.
Bruce
Bruce