after buying the conversion motor mounts and tranny crossmember how close to a bolt in is the motor? what else is involved?

 

I spoke with the guy who owns the red camaro in the S & P catalog and he said "If there's one thing i've learned about working on old cars, it's that nothing bolts on like it is supposed to." I had to make my own tranny crossmember because 1) the BRP one didn't line up and 2) the motor mounts put the motor too far forward. I'm starting to believe that almost every subframe is different.

 

thanks for the info... so other then getting the motor bolted in how hard is it? is there alot of work needed to the rest of the car to make it fit? will the stock oil pan work? raditor? what about the powersteering pump and dose anything on the motor or car need to be modified to fit?

 

I did use the modified oil pan from S & P that cleared the stock linkage. If you gowith a rack and pinion set-up you won't have to. The oil pan is relatively cheap because you turn yours back in. As far as the accessories that come on the car go, it all depends whose mounting system you use. S & P's set-up requires the use of their pricey pulley system to relocate the AC compressor. BRP works ok(the AC is tight) if you don't mond how far forward the engine sits in the subframe. A general rule of thumb puts the #1 spark plug even with the ball joint fitting on th eupper control arm. I've seen people use the stock LS-1 radiator from a donor car, but people like Ron Davis make custom Radiators to fit both the newer engine and the older chassis. Also take a look at your shifter location after the motor is in the car. You can make an easy modification to fix that.

 

I have a 1979 camaro that im putting a 2000 corvette motor in I have it all in place and just found a set of off the shelf header to fit with little work, it has a radiator out of a 97 camaro with the ls1 f-body cooling fans . As for everthing else the power stearing off of a f-body should fit with the modification of the powerstering hose and if im not wrong a place in Dallas dose it for about fifty bucks. I also am running a painless wire harnes the only bad thing is that you will have to run a 98 cpu. Im not running a heater core and Meizer sales a electric race water pump that is two hundred and fifty bucks that frees up alot of power. I used sold motor mounts and a M6 i will have to shorten my drive shaft.On the fuel system i put a comp enginering fuel sump that goes to an A1000 from aeromotive with dash ten going into a Y-block and the dash eight that goes to some FAST fuel rails, and finaly conects to the fuel regulator and back to the tank its been a big task but well worth the resto its still not done but soon. hope i have helped

 

We had to move the motor back in my 69 as well.. the BRP mounts pushed it forward too much so the the headers didnt clear the steering gearbox..

It all looks so easy on paper but there are always little issues.. radiator hoses and such but mostly headers are the sticking point..

There is also the oil pan notching issue.. lots of pics on my site if that helps

 

I have your site on my Favorites. You did a really good job with both the site and the car. I especially liked the coil relocation.

 

We have used lots of the BRP kits. They work the best, but every part is designed to work together, Phillip will be the first person to tell you that. The front steer kit works perfect, allows you to use all factory accessories (saving $1200 min) give you better steering response no need for a steroid rack (saving $1050), don't have to cut the oil pan (saving $250) trans crossmember bolts in, and Stainless Works headers bolt right in. If you use any parts from another vendor, it causes problems. Moving the motor fwd is not a problem. Your already loosing 300lb of the nose of the car. If you try to use the trans crossmember with S&P motor mounts it won't work. If you use the Stainless Works headers they will only work if you use the BRP kit. We figured it both ways for a customer using S&P, and others, and the BRP kit saves about $1200 and makes life much easier. We sell the the complete BRP motor mount kit, with front steer rack kit, trans mount, with Stainless Works headers for $1995 figure $300 to get a shop to modify your crossmember for front steer.

Thanks Scott

 

[QUOTE=Tennessee Auto]We have used lots of the BRP kits. They work the best, but every part is designed to work together, Phillip will be the first person to tell you that. The front steer kit works perfect, allows you to use all factory accessories (saving $1200 min) give you better steering response no need for a steroid rack (saving $1050), don't have to cut the oil pan (saving $250) trans crossmember bolts in, and Stainless Works headers bolt right in. If you use any parts from another vendor, it causes problems. Moving the motor fwd is not a problem. Your already loosing 300lb of the nose of the car. If you try to use the trans crossmember with S&P motor mounts it won't work. If you use the Stainless Works headers they will only work if you use the BRP kit. We figured it both ways for a customer using S&P, and others, and the BRP kit saves about $1200 and makes life much easier. We sell the the complete BRP motor mount kit, with front steer rack kit, trans mount, with Stainless Works headers for $1995 figure $300 to get a shop to modify your crossmember for front steer.

Thanks Scott[/QUO


I tried using BRP's entire kit and I'm here to tell you I had to make a new trans crossmember. The one they made looked relatively cheap and it did not fit. The bolt holes did not line up with the subframe (and yes I measured the frame diagonally-twice) and the mount for the transmission was off to the left by more than 3/4". I was a little dissappointed. Why wouldn't you want to have the motor to as close to the center of the car as possible. I guess you have to ask yourself what's important. Do you want the LS1 for looks or do you want the car to perform? Also, better the check the clearance from the A/C compressor to the frame with the BRP mounts. I could hardly fit a sheet of paper between the two. Now I have to say BRP'S mounts fit better than S & P's, and you do save money with their stuff.

 

hey i have my project for sale if you are interested! already had the motor and tranny mounted in! let me know if you are interested

but back toyour topic... mounting the motor was the hardest thing to do on this project! i never knew how aggrivated i could get with something! i used the s&p kit with the notched oil pan, but i must say that i was dissapointed with the oil pna, it leaks!

 

Yes, I should be clear.. i just used the BRP motor mounts.. Im running a gear box and I have no AC.. so I dont fault BRP that I had to monkey around with things.. I moved the motor back because:

1. It looked better
2. Better weight transfer
3. so the S&P headers would clear the gear box
4. because I could

I could see how using the whole BRP systems would be a $$$ saver if you were running AC and such..

 

I am buying a totaled out 01ss and want to swap the motor and trans into my 78 camaro and am wondering what all extra i will need to make it work besides the obvious mounts and crossmember....? different serp. system? p/s? Are there any aftermarket kits? I assume i can use the origional pcm harness and the 6 speed is all hydraulic but is that all? Will the sub frames swap with mods? I would love to run 3rd gen front end if possible... Any advise or should i find out the hard way?? Although that is usually the fun part!!!!!!

 

DID YOU ???

Geeze!!! Alot to ask on your first post, but it has all been covered. Start with the sticky section then try the search function. And this should have been asked on a new thread
Oh, and welcome to LS1 tech!

ChrisP

 

Tennessee Auto---"If you use the Stainless Works headers they will only work if you use the BRP kit".

Well, that’s kind of not true...

The stainless works headers, for the 1st gen Camaro, were first developed for the Year One Camaro ( the white and orange vert) and that car used BRP products. Hence, the SW headers were built around the BRP engine mounts using the BRP rack kit.

And now SW offers a 1st gen header for the guys/girls that like to use a steering box.

My 1st gen is living proof that SW headers will work with the S&P type mounts.

I am using the BRP rack kit
I didn't like the "look" of the motor moved forward with the BRP mounts. This equates to 4 inches from the firewall to the head on the passenger side and even more space on the drivers side since the heads are staggered.
It was designed that way so one could use the factory accessories with no fab for brackets, a/c etc. and to allow room for the 4th gen rack setup. (If the motor was moved aft, there would be a conflict with the low mount alternator and the top of the rack)

Here’s what I did…
I didn't like the idea of notching the oil pan, so I didn't, and thats just my choice.
I cut my own S&P style mounts from the template in the FAQ sticky section.
The motor sits about 1.75” from the firewall to the head.
I am using corvette accessories in order to clear the BRP rack kit.
I am using SW headers with no issues just like the guy (can’t remember his name) at SW told me they would no matter which mounts I used since I am using a rack.

But, if you are using a box instead of a rack I could see where that statement might be true. I believe Steve (Steve1969LS1) went through that on a not so distant past post.


BTW, happy 42nd Steve!!!

ChrisP

 

Seems like every car is different. I'm putting a ls1 700r4 in a 69. Seems like every thing I buy has to be modified to some extent. But it really hasn't been to difficult. This is my first swap and it has been a good learning expierence.It can be done do a lot of research to minimize any waste. Good luck

 

Did you guys check the dates of this thread? ......2004