Need help to disable VATS at pcm. PLEASE
#1
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Hello this is Mike from NY. We are doing a conversion from a 1996 Chevy Caprice SS to a 1998 Jeep Wrangler. The motor, tranny, and motor harness came out of the car. We did not take the steering column out nor the vats system box that I have read is near the ignition. We completed the mechanical part of the motor installation along with some of the wiring. We wired it to the original jeep igintion and bypassed the starter relay so it turns over and starts. After about 10 seconds the injectors turn off and the engine stalls. All the bypass of the vats research I did shows it near the igition I don't have. We have all the wiring diagrams and it shows in the red computer plug that there is one dark blue wire in spot 25 that deals with the theft deterant. So my question is do you have any idea what to do with this one wire like ground it or put power to it or are we going to have to reprogram the pcm and take out the Vats system. Any answer would greatly be appreciated. Thanks Mike
#3
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There's a recipe on here somewhere to build a VATS disabler if you're good w/ electronics fabrication.
Or...Baker Electronics sells a black box that does it.
Or...as badjuju said you can buy PCM tuning software and kill it entirely, along w/ a lot of other cool stuff like adjusting fan on/off temps, idle speed, spark and fuel maps, disabling error codes for components (fuel tank pressure sensor, etc.) your ride doesn't have.
Or...Baker Electronics sells a black box that does it.
Or...as badjuju said you can buy PCM tuning software and kill it entirely, along w/ a lot of other cool stuff like adjusting fan on/off temps, idle speed, spark and fuel maps, disabling error codes for components (fuel tank pressure sensor, etc.) your ride doesn't have.
#6
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That $30 is pretty cheap. If you ever plan on doing any tuning though you might just want to invest in Hptuner. It pretty much covers all future plans/mods that might find their way into your car ? With the latest 1.6 release I can now remove and sell my CAGS module. It will even eliminate the annoying light in the dash
#7
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Baker is 'Baker Electronix' if you want to do a search for thier website.
He advertises on ebay -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33720
He advertises on ebay -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33720
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#9
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Originally Posted by 92CamaroReallySlow
are Baker Electronix's products reliable? I need to buy a Tach Signal interface and theres is about 30 bucks cheaper than Dakota Digitals.
its just a voltage regulator some protection diodes, transistor switches, and a flash programmable microcontroller... the boards could even be the same between models... just put a diffrent program in.
ive messed around with microcontrollers a good bit, and they're pretty reliable.. everything in there is solid state. i would mount the box in the car instead of underhood... since the box isnt perfectly sealed, but they're made of reliable components, so i wouldnt worry about them too much.
#10
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Well that sounds pretty good to me, although I would probably mount it in the engine bay because I already have the splice for the signal in, signal out, power and ground already in the engine bay, maybe I could insulate it somehow...
#11
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Originally Posted by 92CamaroReallySlow
Well that sounds pretty good to me, although I would probably mount it in the engine bay because I already have the splice for the signal in, signal out, power and ground already in the engine bay, maybe I could insulate it somehow...
what i did for my tach adapter is mount it under the dash.. i had the power and ground right there.. just took the wire coming from the bulkhead and cut it. connected the bulkhead end as the input and the other end as the output.
i also used weatherpack connectors (you could use any kind you want) so that i could unplug the box and reconnect the wire at will.