Mystic96

How are you guys going about getting the hydraulic system to work in a car that never came with a hydraulic clutch? What would need to be done to get it to work in a car? Are there any conversions to get rid of the hydraulics and use something like a clutch cable/quadrant assembly?

TIA,

Scooter70

iTrader: (1)

Stock F-body hydraulics. We just fab a bracket to mount the master cylinder so that the rod reaches to the stock clutch. Click here and scroll down.

I don't think that anyone has converted a hydraulic setup to a cable drawn. That quadrant setup on the Mustangs is the dumbest setup I've ever seen. I couldn't believe it the first time I saw it on my friend's 5.0 GT. "Self adjusting" my butt...

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

hydraulic clutches are sooooooo much nicer then mechanical linkages... i couldnt imagine ever wanting to swap back.

Oscar Will

GM learned all about that on the early S-10 pickups and the 1982 Camaros. Those cable/quadrant things were a disaster!!! You talk about a lousy way to operate a clutch! Hydraulic is the ONLY way to go.

Mystic96

I've never had any problems with my cable and quadrant ever since i've owned my car.

my friend's SS used to have all sorts of hell with his hydraulic clutches.

anyways, just wondering about using a clutch fork and cable instead of having to figure out how to mount a pushrod for the slave cylinder.

i'll read through that link posted above though

LS1 Hybrid Magna

After being burned for being a FORD XXXXX hahah
Cartek or Mc loed are the two companies you need to check out

Mystic96

what type of stuff do they have worth checking out?

Scooter70

iTrader: (1)

upgraded hydraulics

Mystic96

i wouldn't need to upgrade the hydraulics if i didn't even have them at all

i wouldn't mind using the hydraulics, i've just never messed with them and wasn't sure what was involved in making them work in a car that's never had them

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

basicly you need:

• the hose to reach between the master cyl and trans
• the master cyl mounted on the firewall in such a way that the pedal will press the rod in
• make sure the line is secured with enough slack to allow drivetrain movement and not rubbing/near exhaust/ ect...
• make sure the system is free of air (bleed it like you do brakes)

a whole lot simpler then fabricating a mechanical linkage... on par with a cable linkage, but with automatic adjustment and less slack.

Mystic96

anyone know where i can find a diagram or some pictures of how everything works together

need to figure where i would have to mount the master cylinder and how I can attach it to a clutch pedal that wasn't originally equipped with a hydraulic clutch

pewterta

iTrader: (6)

i would take a mechnical clutch set up over hydrolic any day

CMcCarthy

I tend to agree that mechanical is better in most cases. After all, isn't the F-body clutch system known to be a huge durability problem? I have 2 friends that kept breaking slave cylinders until they finally stepped it up and installed hydraulic TOBs. Once I installed a manual adjuster, I've never had any more cable problems. Hell, I never had any before that either, though.

T23LS1

iTrader: (1)

the hydrolic system isn't that bad, I've only gone through 2.

Lostpatrolman

iTrader: (3)

I thought the 2001+ hydraulics were reliable.

T23LS1

iTrader: (1)

Mine was on a 98. 1st slave was bad when I got the car though. Second could have broken due to my shi**y driving.

vtec

iTrader: (1)

after working on the ford cable system, i will say i want the same thing in my camaro. the ford guys get away with a much less aggressive clutch for some reason, and im thinking its the mechanical clutch setup. the hydraulic setup drives nice on the street when its working properly, but its just not working for me and ALOT of others at the track.
this is one area where i would prefer simplicity.