Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

Sorry guys, I havent posted this here much, but I have had some inquiries, so I will try to keep this updated.. Here's the start of the post..


**01-28-05 Project Start.**

I posted this over at syty.net as well, but I'm sure like everything else it will get lost soon enough. Does anyone have any thoughts about putting a POSI/LOCKER in the front of this thing while I have the differential out ?? Comments ? Ideas ?? Not sure its the best option as I want it to remain streetable..



Almost completely done with cleaning the frame in preparation for POR15 paint. I hope to have this painted today !



And a different angle...



I figuired, 'While I was in there' I would go ahead and install POLY BUSHINGS in the front differential.. Why not ?? Every thing else is going to have POLY in it..

I will clean this up and re-install it.. Dayang I wish I had a POSI/LOCKER to install in it at this time.


**01-28-05 Update #1 **

Update.... Some additional research has unearthed just about the ONLY LOCKER/POSI made for our puny front end... I will be installing this SOON as its currently on order..


Going to turn this thing into a REAL AWD truck... NO more 3 wheel peel !!!!





**01-28-05 Update #2 **

One last update.........


Got the frame about 85% done today.. Coupla areas I need to touch up when it dries (IF IT EVER DRIES ) while applying the 2nd coat...


Heres some pics...






Hopefully the locker will be in next week so I can tackle that on my days off !

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

** 02-03-05 Update #1 **


The POR 15 is dry (FINALLY) and its not nearly as shiney now.. Thats good I guess.. (I do have some additional touch up to do tho... )

With that said, I am on my days off so I hope to tackle a complete front differential rebuild as well as the installation of a LOCK RIGHT locker for the front.. I want to eventually run the truck in an SCCA type environment (corner cone racing)...

Some reason I have gotten burned out on the drag scene.. While it will still have an appeal to me.. It just seems that it requires alot less driver skill and more and more $$$ to go faster and faster.

Since I am not Donald Trump (much better looking IMO) and I DEFINITELY dont have his wallet I think that the SCCA/NASA style racing will have more appeal to me in the end.

In addition to being cheaper, the runs are generally atleast 45 seconds long ( vs 11-15 for drag racing).. So the actual 'SEAT' time will be increased atleast 3 times over..

With that said, traction is going to be KING. I am hoping that this wont be one of those mods I regret performing... The theory here is that hopefully the truck will exhibit LESS understeer by pulling BOTH front tires through the twisties (VS plowing)..

Since its pretty much stoopid to race a "box" in that sort of racing I figuired what the hell ??? I cant get any weirder looks anyhow so why not really put on a show :shock: :shock: :shock:

With that said.. Here's a pic of whats going in tomorrow (hopefully):



** 02-04-05 Update #1 **
Bad news upon disassembly.. I found the following :



Soo off to the parts store I went...

Ok, starting a running total here, so far I am upto this :


$385.24 (1x LockRight locker via turbotime)
$10.77 (2x Grease seals for axle shafts. via Napa Auto Part # 12494)
$19.98 (2x Timken bearings via Autozone part# 012313 Timken Part #SET 11 <---- These are listed as wheel bearings.... )


I am also going to show $10-15 in paint to paint the differential housing and axle shaft housings but these arent mandatory to have the project complete so I wont list above..

Another item is the $$$ to press on the new bearings to the differential carrier housing.. I could have saved some $$$ for that by doing it myself, however, there is an easier way, using the correct tools (that I dont have) so I figuired I would just bite the bullet and do it right. Thats going to be another $10-20 when I pick it up..

Then there is gear lube.. Lockright recommends running 85-140wt oil, this helps with shock loads and also quiets the 'clicking' noises made by the locker itself... I havent acquired any yet so I am not 100% on pricing but its going to be only a coupla dollars...


Back to the locker install.....

First step of installing the locker is to remove the open setup, the spider gears need to come out.. But I ran into one small problem :





And one final word of caution :



I really didnt feel like fighting with the carrier bearings, I went to one Autozone to see if they had the puller to pull the bearings off and no dice. I took the carrier to the machine shop and just going to have them swap out the bearings. Sometimes, things are just easier to have someone with the correct tools... I should be able to pick it up tomorrow with the new bearings installed and move forward from there.. I have enough other things to keep my busy until then anyhow.. Another update will be coming soon [shameless plug] but if you want to look at more conversion related stuff. Check out the gallery on my site. [/shameless plug]

** 02-05-05 Update #1 **

Last update..... Its finally DONE, but first things first.

1. Here is a better view of the castle nuts in the differential.. Dont move these unless you are going to replace the bearings and want to set it up. Its been suggested that even then you dont have to set the backlash up (you do what you want, I had the tools and I set up the correct backlash).



2. Here is a picture of the locker loaded into the carrier with the ring gear in place as well. Be advised the ring gear needs to be removed and re-installed for this installation.



3. After everything was done, the front differential is now complete. I need to get it back in the truck and I will be happy !

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

** 02-14-05 Update #1 **
Hey guys, made alot of progress in the "visual progress" department this weekend. Also got to roll down to Jeff's place to see the birth of a CNC Plasma cutter thats no doubt going to reap many a SyTy project in its lifetime.. (I am awaiting project #1 to complete my LS1 Front Disc brake conversion 8) )

Anyhow, heres where I am now :










People with the keen eyeball will notice that the LS1 calipers are NOT shown, as well as the CV shafts. They are both awaiting the bracketry to allow the larger brakes to be installed. This thing is gonna corner as good as it looks (I hope), and hopefully stop really well too !!!

A keen eye will also notice the Edelbrock Tie rod connectors. I haven't had a chance to turn the wheel yet.. But I think that this maybe a MUST for those with coil overs concerned about contacting the springs, it seems to provide more clearance IMO. Time will tell..

I'm hoping that next weekend, will lead to the placement of the motor bolted to both the converted LS1 motor mounts and the transmission. The altered oil pan will also be in place. Its going to be a very big day for me any my project. Its going to throw some items up I am sure I havent dealt with yet.. As well as get me just that much closer.. I can hardly wait !! As always, alot more pictures are posted on my site, and will be updated with stuff that doesnt make it to the forums..

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

**02-20-05 Update #1 **
Alright !!! Not to waste any more time, I had some friends over yesterday for some Final MOCK purposes.

The the JURY is in ...........

wOOt wOOt.. Its gonna fit !! ( I always knew it would, but this is gonna be TIGHT). Going to need alot of help in the exhaust area, but the LS1 will indeed fit in the frame rails.

Here is a pic of my mock LS1 block (No rods, pistons etc, light weight mode).. Sitting on the custom motor mounts, against the transmission bellhousing with the front differential AND the modified 6.0L Oil Pan.



The following pictures show the extremely TIGHT clearances down under ;-) Dayamn.. This is gonna rock !!




Special thanks goes out to (no particular order) for lending a helping hand and giving me ideas how to conquer the issues confronting me on this conversion.

Mike D (2kwik4u, die hard enthusiast who drove up here 140mi to help yesterday)
Gary R and JJ (both Local SyTy'ers here in Indy)
Mark S. (Maxtor, and 2 Syclone owner <--- Mark is a glutton for punishment for owning two of these things !!)


The pictures tell ALOT of the story, but not the whole story.. its going to be a nite mare for the exhaust. I am currently "toy"-ing the idea of running it OUTSIDE the frame rails and running individual true dual exhaust. The worst issue is nearest the steering shaft. I currently have my 6.0L heads on loan to a friend in NC so I wasn't able to place them on the block for a better idea of the interference there but its GOING to be the most challenging part of this conversion..

I always knew it would be the hardest part, its getting time to address it now. Next days off I have I will be looking at brake lines and trying to address that issue. The stockers probably are NOT going back on.. Its time for some new brake lines.

An interesting little tidbit.. Thanks to JJ having the only other Typhoon at my house yesterday we were able to compare locations of the engine vs overall lenghth. At best an 'educated' guess/measurement the LS1/6 motor is only going to be 3.5" longer than the 4.3L it replaced and its VERY VERY close to the same weight as the fully loaded 4.3L as well... I may just be able to pull this off :wink:

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

**03-16-05 Update #1 **
Made some progress this week on the truck, however small, its probably worth updating..

So far these are the big parts I have.. I havent had a chance yet to address the flexible fluid lines since I am going to wait for the PS Pump from the corvette to be 'in hand' to assure proper length & fittings..


Keep in mind that I cant settle for any thing not being completely custom (so it seems) so the master cylinder is causing some additional expense on my setup. I wanted to go with LS1 Fbody car master cylinder as I figuired it would be better matched to the LS1 brakes on all 4 corners. (Piston diameters, rod stroke etc).. If you were going with a standard Astro or SyTy master cylinder (prolly same parts) it would be ALOT easier to do this and alot less fabrication involved.

The parts shown on the lower LH corner of the picture are parts that go INSIDE between the booster and master cylinder. These parts are NO LONGER AVAILABLE FROM GM for the '94 Astro setup. I managed to get them from a '00 2500 HD Parts catalog and thats what you see here. They fit inside the booster just fine, but the 'PISTON' is too short and is better illustrated here :




I'd strongly recommend that IF you go this route you check the overall length of your piston when going with an alternative master cylinder like I did... DONT TAKE MY WORD for the dimensional length on your setup.. Yes its tedious to check, but will provide the best results in the end.

I chose to clock the hydroboost booster UPSIDE DOWN so the fluid lines all run in and out of the bottom (so I didnt have to see them and to help with routing you can see the orientation here as well as the gap that was left over from the different plate sizing between the two boosters:



Since the LS1 master cylinder completely changes the output side of the fluid lines its going to require all custom lines be made. I figuired since the truck was 12years old, the stock lines were looking a little shabby, that I would just go ahead and replace them so I purchased a flaring tool and will be running AN fittings where I can. Here's the flaring tool :



Earls wanted $75+ for the same tool, that one was $42/shipped from Summit.





Standard Automotive brake fittings are 45* Double Flared, this setup is a single flare setup and its a 37* for all AN fittings, keep that in mind when doing brakes, you DONT want to mix and match those fittings/flares, at the least you will have leaks, worst case failure.

The only remaining item that needs to be addressed is the brake rod length where it attaches to the pedal. Its probably best to just post another picture here :



In the above picture "X" dimension is different between the Astro booster and the SyTy vaccuum booster. Some people prefer to 'cut and paste' with a welder these two rods.. Errrr. I'm sure it works, but I'm sorta nervous about doing that with a brake system part...

Both the of the items here are going to also be addressed in addition to the previously mentioned FILLER plate by Eric @ www.turbotime.us which will make the NAPA parts a straight bolt in setup. There will be parts coming very soon if you want to wait for them. Right now we just need to get the dimensions finalized and built.



Would I recommend following my build on this ?? (stupid question to ask a guy shoving an all aluminum v8 in the place of the wimpy 4.3L dont ya think ?)



Depends, if you want an all out matched setup and are running discs all the way around, then yes. (remember I am running LS1Fbody car discs all the way around, if you are still running stock brakes, stay with stock master cylinder.) and I just didnt like the idea of running a mismatched master cylinder. I am unsure of the effects, or if there is even a HUGE difference between the two master cylinders (may in fact be very close, who knows ?). I havent talked to anyone with this setup that runs discs all the way around and inquired about pedal feel or performance yet. I figuired it wasnt that much more of a headache to get it done correctly since I was this far into it anyhow. I guarantee you it can be done for cheaper/easier than I have done.. So far with the above parts, I am upto about $470 (flare tool is at your discretion, since it has other uses later on, I didnt include it) and these are all REMANUFACTURER or NEW parts with NO CORES available to offset the core charges. These nuymbers would be significantly LESS using junkyard parts or a combination of them. I also have to factor in the high pressure lines that I have NOT purchased yet, if someone is interested in purchasing them get in touch with me PRIVATELY and I can see if I can get Earls to make up more than one set (of course your ends will require accomodation to SYTY hose ends @ PS Pump).





Anyhow, I hope this information helps and of course, YMMV etc etc

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

That is a cool project... very cool. The stealth factor should be there if it will scoot to low 11's or faster.

I hope you are aware the front diffs are not strong on these cars.. and especially with a turbo V8..... even if upgraded. Start shopping for spare axles.

Some of the faster Syclones and Typhoons are RWD.... at least the ones that do more than 1-2 passes before something breaks.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

i like it! might have some issues with that steering shaft and the exhuast though. have you thought about maby using the 6.0L truck manifolds? lots of guys run those (even on big turbo cars)

might want to consider some prothane (poly) motor mounts, they will keep things centered up and keep that oil filter from getting knocked off when that thing starts getting rowdy under all that newfound power.

i LOVE the way ZR1's look on typhoons and syclones. i used to have an s10 blazer and was a big fan.

Scooter70

iTrader: (1)

Looks very cool.



I haven't heard many good things about the Powertrax setup. Did you see where it said "the vehicle must not be equiped with full time 4 wheel drive"?

ta12sec

iTrader: (3)

Badass, but your gonna die on the free way with a powertrax up front

PendragonZ

That is going to be one bad *** ride!

'JustDreamin'

The Powertrax warning specifically says 4 wheel drive. And things like locked front hubs. Todd may do just fine, because unlike a normal 4wd transfer case (where the front and rear driveshafts are locked together and MUST spin at the same rate) he's got a viscous coupling tcase. The viscous coupling tcase will allow the front and rear driveshafts to spin at different rates (at least until you get the coupling hot and it locks up). I'm not sure how its going to affect handling. Guess Todd gets to be the test pilot.

Thanks for the updates Todd. Keep up the good work.

'Dreamin'

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the compliments guys, I guess when you cant afford what you want you just MOD what you have !



Yeah, I'm somewhat nervous about this as well. Even tho I did a fair amount of research it seems to be the common concern just about everywhere on my locker in the front.. However, as 'DREAMIN' mentioned, the transfer case I think is a big factor. When I called Richmond Gear up and talked to them I think the guy on the other end of the phone musta swallowed his gum when I told him what I wanted to judging by the change in tone and the hastened response I got from him trying to tell me NOT to do it. I guess I cant say I wasnt warned, but I also know the manufacturer is trying to cover their **** etc. However a friend of mine has had it in his Typhoon for quite some time now and he does hold the record for the quickest AWD Typhoon, and he says nothing but good things about it.. In our oddball combination of a truck I have learned to trust more what fellow owners have done vs that of what popular consensus is. I guess if you dont try something new, everyone would have the same ride right ??

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

Why not put a 4L80E behind it and a 2500 series truck transfer case? Just run the stock Typhoon front diff and the rest HD truck components?

There are few turbo 5.3 and 6.0 4x4 trucks running 11's/12's at 5,000lbs+ on this website.

black_z

iTrader: (4)

Thats gonna be a sweet ride

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

I'm well aware of the #'s you guys are running here, believe me, I envy alot of you here !! I've actually been 'lurking' on this board for a couple of years (and even some before I signed up) I just didnt feel I had much to contribute in terms of 'tech'.

As far as the "4L80e" it is on the schedule if/when my Rossler 700r4 dies.. Initially I didnt want to have to swallow the added expense of driveshaft mods as well as the HUGE $$$ expense related to the 80e and Torque converter and then on top of it, try to tune BOTH the engine and transmission at once.. I decided the K.I.S.S. principle was probably best to begin with. This Rossler 700r4 has proven to stand upto multiple LOW-MID 10 sec passes in an AWD Syclone so I am confident it will last atleast for a while until I can regroup financially from the engine swap.. Then I will get serious about contemplating transmission & transfercase swap. The thought of doing this with the push of a button is intriguing tho...

In closing, I'd just like to say thanks for all the kind words and suggestions, I've caught alot of flack and theres been alot of people in the SyTy community that either think I am nuts (which they may not be far off) or they feel I am ruining a "COLLECTOR" status vehicle... To which I basically say its my truck, and I'll do what I want to !!

exodus

iTrader: (15)

Drive on dude, like you said, it's your truck and you can do what you want with it. I hope it all works out for you.

Chris

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

What about a 510 Datsun with twin turbo LS1 power, 4L80E, AWD and 335/18's all the way around .

You should hear the RX-7 guys complaining about engine conversions. Big babies thinking the rotary is the holy grail of all engines.

Your Typhoon when completed will be a beast. Keep making progress.

super_kev

iTrader: (5)

That's an awesome project.

Repo Man

iTrader: (1)

what is the latest word on this project? I keep checking back and there hasnt been an update latley.

Jim98WS6

Very cool project. I love those Sy/Ty's.