1fine69

just as the title says...i've got a 69 camaro, and about to put the ls1/t56 in it. yearone offers a "Transmission crossmember for 1967-1969 Camaro models fitted with an LS1 and T56 transmission. New GM." - part number BG953. will this work with the S/P motor mount, or do i need to get a TH400 x-member and modify it?

another question that i've never got answered - with the S/P kit, will the shifter come up in the stock location, and fit in my original console, or will i have to do some "massaging"?

Teetoe_Jones

It may fit, but you'll probably have to slot the frame and move it rearward, as the BRP mounts push the LS1 forward from where the S&P mounts are.
There is a much better fitting, stonger, and better looking crossmember at http://www.t56kit.com
Tyler

scogin918

iTrader: (3)

You do not want BRP/Year One's crossmember. It looked like they went to Home Depot and made out of fence pipe. I bought one a while back and it did not line up at all. The trans mount was at least 3/4" off to one side and the holes to mount to the sub-frame were off as well. If you can't have one made, then get one from T56kit.com.

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

or you could buy the comp engineering one and make your own for about $50
part number CEE-3601


here is the t56.com one

Teetoe_Jones

Yeah, good luck with that one. The tube size is larger than ours, (decreasing exhaust clearance) the drop is wrong, and brackets need to be made from scratch. We manufacure ours out of chromoly, with stainless ends, and it is engineered to fit the T56 application only.
Just for reference, here is a thread at Camaros.net of guys trying to do the comp style in their first gen cars, that gave up, and bought ours.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56246
Tyler

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

LOL, you seem to take everything as a hit against you. your cross member is a very nice part. it is just right for some folks and out of the budget for others. I made the comp eng part work just fine. I must admit that i used the pics on your site as a guide. i like the way yours is pinned for easy removal.


BTW, are you a paying site sponsor? i did not see you on the list?????

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

I got mine from Tyler and it was a nice piece, but it wouldn't line up with the S&P mounts. It was close to an inch too far back to bolt up, so I never got the tranny bolted in.

Teetoe_Jones

Nope, not a site sponsor, but I did sponsor Nineball's 69 Camaro project with the LS1/T56.
I don't think your comments are a 'hit' against me or my product line, but not everyone will be able to take the comp kit out of the box and make it work. Some people have no welding or fabrication skills, and need bolt in parts. The gentleman who started the thread was asking about bolt in parts, so I made a recommendation for some better fitting ones.
LS69TA-
While our crossmember isn't specifically designed for the LS1 engine install, we've made our crossmember work with every variation of the T56 out on the market, from the D&D 'Viper' box, all the way to the Salle Chevy 3rd gen retro-fit version. In some cases (such as yours) the frame rail holes will either need to be re-drilled or slotted.
We have an Ls1 engine install kit in the works (fabricated road race oil pan, CNC aluminum engine mounts, and Burns Stainless Tri-Y headers) that will have a LS1 specific T56 crossmember included with it.
Tyler

magnals1

Lots Of Vendors Make The Tranny Cross Member For This Conversion. I Got Mine From A Vendor In California And It Bolted Right Up Where My Stock Cross Member Was For My Super T-10.
Look At My Car On This Site. Silver 68 Ss With Blown Ls1 And T-56 Tranny. Street And Performance In Mena, Arkansas Makes One Too.

John

SatisTraction

iTrader: (2)

i found a pic of mine. it is just clamped in for now. I have to set the engine angle before the final install

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Hmmm, I had the BRP engine mounts and the Year One T56 x-member and everything lined up perfectly. Of course, I had to raise the tranny tunnel about an inch and a half to clear the tranny though. But, all the holes lined up perfectly, no complaints. The Year One mount was just a modified factory mount, it used the original frame bolt holes too.

scogin918

iTrader: (3)

The BRP motor mounts had the engine too far forward. We had to weld the stock pedestals to the BACK of the crossmember to place the #1 cylinder in line with the upper control arm ball joint. The way BRP had it hung too much engine over the nose.

ahowudoin

iTrader: (2)

But your not using a/c

scogin918

iTrader: (3)

i cut a pocket in the sub-frame for the A/C compressor. even with the pedestals in the stock location, you couldn't get a piece of paper between the subframe and the compressor. like I've said before, it all depends on what you want to do with the car. If I wanted a cruiser, i would have left it alone and saved a bunch of money. It was worth it to me for the engine to be in the correct location. The last thing I want to worry about is if i can take a curve or not while I'm running from the police. (i'm just kidding. no, really)

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Any aluminum LS1 engine in place of a cast iron SBC or BBC will still weigh about 250-400 lbs less up front. So, even if you do have to move the engine forward slightly, its not that big of a deal when talking about LS1 engines.

Didn't seem to affect my car:

scogin918

iTrader: (3)

but why not take full advantage when you can? I had the pleasure of working with someone from Bill Davis' Nextel Cup team when setting this car up. There were two ways we could have gone and we did talk about leaving it alone. I asked him how they would do it and this is how it turned out.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

define 'full advantage'. Do you plan on building a street car, or one that will live on the road course and make attempts at setting lap time records?

Just make the outcome meet your goals for the car. Part of the reason I went with the BRP setup is so that I could hide the ugly coil packs on the backside of the heads, as well as gain more header clearance for my longtubes. Those options outweighed any plans for worring about 2" of setback. There isn't a right or wrong way of doing this swap, just a matter of preference.

scogin918

iTrader: (3)

don't worry about my car. i know exactly what i'm going to do with it. I didn't even start this thread. i was putting my two cents worth based on my experience with my car. 1fine69 can take what he wants from that.