any problem using mustang starter solenoid
12-17-2005, 09:27 PM
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any problem using mustang starter solenoid vs using the starter relay etc in the f body?? Does the computer need to know car is cranking?? Or will it know based off of CPS?
Dave
Dave
12-18-2005, 04:51 AM
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Unless computer needs to see crank signal of some sort, you could just take the crank hot off the solenoid to the GM starter, easy as pie. IF the ECM doesnt need to see a crank signal. I dont see any wires where it does, but i'll wait for the more seasoned to reply.
Dave
Dave
Im gonna have a high pressure line fabbed up and see how she goes.
12-18-2005, 12:17 PM
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sweet, so basically retain entire ford starting system, take the ign. start hot from solenoid to GM starter?
Brains, who made the high pressure PS line for you?
Dave
Brains, who made the high pressure PS line for you?
Dave
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12-18-2005, 01:05 PM
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Me. 
I haven't made them for this car yet, but the lines are trivial. For the g/f's turbo car, I made lines from -6AN stainless braided line, and will probably do the same for this car. The fittings and hose ends are readily available items from Aeroquip, Earls, Russell, etc.
I haven't made them for this car yet, but the lines are trivial. For the g/f's turbo car, I made lines from -6AN stainless braided line, and will probably do the same for this car. The fittings and hose ends are readily available items from Aeroquip, Earls, Russell, etc. 
12-19-2005, 10:43 PM
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Im running one in my RX7 because I was not getting enough current to pull in the starter brushes on 110 degree days. Has NEVER not started with a racing ford soleniod.
Only problem is that the starter drags and will prematurely wear the starter, as well as bearings and such with 1500-2000rpm for the first 1.5 seconds, vs 1000 rpm.
-Jason
Only problem is that the starter drags and will prematurely wear the starter, as well as bearings and such with 1500-2000rpm for the first 1.5 seconds, vs 1000 rpm.
-Jason
12-20-2005, 12:38 PM
#18
I plan to use a Ford solenoid with mine. I had it set up that way with the 350 prior to the swap. My battery is in my trunk. I Have placed the solenoid near the battery and then hav 4 gauge welding cable running from the switched side of the solenoid to the starter. On the starter I have a jumper directly from the starter to the stock solenoid. I Have a totally seperate 10 gauge wire that runs from the unswitched side of the solenoid up to a power distribution point at the front of the car. Using this set up the heavy 4 gauge is only live when I am cranking the motor. The 10 gauge carries power forward and also charges the battery. This worked very well with my previous motor, I have talked with John at Speartech about it and he believes it will work well with the LS1 as well. I am not at that point of my swap yet so I am only speaking of what I believe and plan will work. The other thing I am considering since I already have the battery back there is running the power to my fuel pump relay from the same place my 10 gauge wire is coming from so only the relay trigger wire has to come from the front of the car. The shorter run should ensure I always have plenty of juice for the fuel pump.
Pat
Pat
12-20-2005, 12:43 PM
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thats a lot of distance to carry a lot of current but let me know how she goes. I used 0AWG welding wire only 2' and i had issues at times.
Dave
Dave
12-21-2005, 09:10 PM
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i also ended up using the firebird fusebox as it'll be easier to wire everything using this central "relay station". I will loom everything and run it into inner fender I think to keep it neat.
Dave
Dave
