anybody ever upgrade their clutch master cylinder? anybody even know if there is an upgrade out there?

 

first off ill start by saying i have a 98 s10 with an ls1 and a 4l60e,this forum has been a big help,im going to say what everyone else said STAY AWAY FROM LS1PERFORMANCEPARTS.com it has to be the worst company ever, took me over a month to get my oil pan ,customer service is the worst.i used the vette fuel filter regulator,vette accessorys,jtr mounts,sanderson headers and i would highly reccommend jarred from current performance wiring he built me a wiring harness and did my computer reprogram the truck works flawlisly everything was plug and play truck fired right up and havent had a problem yet,the price may seem exspensive but it was well worth the money and it even came with diablo sport programmer so i could change tire size and other stuff if neccesary

 

Sorry Bigdeezs, I was a bit confused about the fuel rail and regulator. I agree about the vette inline regulator. Whatever you can get your hands on will work. Lt1S10 are you John that I talked to last fall? I'm assuming it is, what's going on man. How was your trip to good ol' Indy over the Holiday's? My buddy Brayden and I were going to call ya but I ran into a few problems before I got away from school! Oh well, let me know next time your up this way and we'll get together for those beeeers... Like John said try to get someone around your area to help ya with the fab and tooling. It's much easier when you run into problems along the way (because you WILL) to get them figured out the right way the first time and it's a garauntee that it will. When it comes to custom stuff like headers and mounts for the clearance it's hard enough to do in person let along a couple hundred miles away over emails, phone calls, and pics. If you do business with LS1 Performance Parts keep close documentation of everything and the fine print on his site on the payment pages about returns and satisfaction (they don't even know what that is). Anyways, after my disputes with him he changed a lot of this requirements. I was laughing my *** off when I saw everything he changed about returns and have the originals I'm going to post to show how much he changed! Another thing, he will do everything he can to buy himself time and assure you the product. Don't buy it and be firm about it. Better yet, yeah, just don't use them! GMfreek2000, nice to meet ya man. Sorry to hear about your problems with LS1PerformanceParts. I'm doing my best as well as with others to spread the word. Glad to hear the rest worked out OK though.

 

It does replace the factory filter (you wont need your stock fuel filter anymore)... It looks alot like the factory filter except it has two ports on one end and a single port on the other. The two ports are fuel inlet direct from the pump and the return. The other port supplies the 60psi regulated fuel directly to the fuel rail. The lines on my truck would not just plug and play and I doubt yours will either. But it's no different than figuring how to connect your stock lines to the 97 fuel rail or any fuel rail for that matter.

 

eh, maybe i wont go with ls1performanceparts after all.

 

I have a phantom dually 97 ls1/t56 noma that I have been driving since august. My swap took for ever due to lack of time and funds, man are kids expensive. Anyways I did all the work myself and have plenty invested. I bought the block with a burnt valve and did a complete rebuild including hand porting a set of heads and installing bigger valves. Then I purchased a t56 off of e-bay that had the normal 4th gear lock up and 5th and 2nd were toast as well. On to modifying the truck for the swap. Being broke as hell and having all the f-body acc I opted to use them instead of the much more expensive vette stuff. So YES it can be done. I used everything from the oil pan to the a/c compressor p/s and alt. Yes the steering box is in the way and no you cant notch it but you can convert to rack and pinion. So my truck is running a rack out of a f-body too. Exhaust starts with a set of flanges from sdpp and goes into a weld up kit from jegs. 3" collectors w/ v-band clamps for easy disconnect and no leaks then run through 3" exhaust into dynatech cats then into spintech mufflers and finally out the back. Yes it is true duals, Not a easy fit on a lowered truck. Driveshafts need to be cut about 2"-3" as stated just depends on your mounts. Oh yeh I made those too. None of this was available when I started. 98-99 manifolds will work new ones won't due to flange and lower part of header hitting upper control arm. I used the vette filter and a single line was the cheapest easiest way to go. conectors can be bought at you local parts store and rubber fuel line will work if thats not an option. Brake booster needs to be changed to a smaller one cavaliers work well but you have to modify the rod with the end off of your s-dime. heater box needs to be trimed on the other side for clearance as well. Wiring isn't hard to do yourself if you know anything about wiring. I used two, a t-56 harness and the one from my truck and grafted them together. As far as the rear end thing I am in need of one myself. I do know that 5 passes on a 28" slick makes a new set of gears whine a little but as stated no traction on street tires really prolongs there life. 8.5's are hard as hell to find for a good price. hell they are hard to find in general. I have purchased 4 so far and get them here and they are 7.625's I have a 12 bolt but no time to narrow it. I hope this covers the basics. Hope you made it through my novel with out falling asleep. I have everything written down that I used with a cost beside it If I find it I'll post it. As far as pics If someone can host them I'll be happy to do so or even better yet I have a website that I pay for by the year just haven't figured out how to design it so more than likley I could host them if someone wants to explain how. If anyone is intrested in a swap and doesn't know how or wouldn't want the challenge PM me I'd love to do another.

..RJ..

 

I've heard alot of people say they had to change the brake booster or relocate the rear most coil packs. I thought I'd mention that I did not have to on mine. I either have a different booster or I mounted my motor lower than most. I did however have to cut into the HVAC box quite a bit. As I've said before my motor sits very low in the engine bay. This also allowed me to fabricate brackets that hold the f-body alternator above the motor with no hood clearance issues at all. (It looks ready for a twin screw Whipple or Kenne Bell! )

 

thanks wades! how did u hook up the rack and pinion? i was thinking about an astro van booster. i have a how to on a ford 8.8 if u wanna c. its pretty much a bolt in.

 

Post that up Xtreme...I'd like to see. Anybody know the difference in weights and parasitic loss between the chevy 8.5 and ford 8.8?

 

Some of the s-series suv boosters are smaller, they don't have a seam that goes around and locks them together. Look at one and you'll see what I am talking about. I had one that I was going to use but it had gotten h2o in it and went bad so I used the cavalier one. It gave me enough clearance for valve cover spacers. I need the space for adjustable rockers. I'm up for the 8.8 swap info. I have access to one w/ 4.10 and discs that would work good but I read somwhere they are a bit wider, which isn't a big deal for I have the extra space but I really wanted about 8" of dish in the rear. I forgot to mention in the previous post that the stock 4.3 fuel pump will support a ls1. you can also fit a t-56 in with the 60/40 seat by removing the cup tray. I also have line lock and my abs works so that isn't a issue either. Just thought that I would add some more info on myths that I heard when doing my swap. As for the 98 and up you can use one or two ecms to make all of the additional stuff like keyless entry and such. For you to use one you have to make the vin number on your ecm match the one on your bcm. Which one you need to change I am unsure of but I did talk with someone who made it work. I'll look to see if I still have the PM if someone needs it. Hope this helps some of you guys out.
..RJ..

 

I didn't have to relocate anything on mine either, nor did I have to cut into the heater box. I have a 2" Body Lift though and that helped a ton. I wouldn't of wanted to do the swap without it. Good luck to all you guys.

Chris

 

http://s-series.org/Sections-article65-p1.html cant u just use the stock computer system and get it tuned?

 

If you are talking about a stock s-10 ecm I dont think the stock one will work dont quote me on it. The 4.3 injectors work on a different impedance then the ls1 plus there are 6 instead of 8. Coil packs are the same way eight instead of one. Plus the wiring harness is way different. All of the f-body guages are run off of the computer and the s-10s use the old stye ground guages. At least my 97 does. Like I said it could be possible but I wouldn't want to do it. Thanks on the 8.8 thing.
..RJ..

 

i know the wiring harness is different but the gauges will work when you buy a harness from a pro. im pretty sure the ecm works but you i can buy a stand alone ls1 ecm for 200$.

 

It really depends upon what year truck you have. The '98 and up trucks run the same basic computer as the LS1. But earlier trucks don't, which is why I bought a '99 for my swap (which hasn't officially started yet).

'JustDreamin'

 

My guages work they just dont run off of the same info that the ls1 ecm uses. The 98 and up 4.3 s-series use the same style 4 plug ecm as the earlier ones but the 4cyl ones use a ecm that looks similar to the ls1. It may be possible to use either of them but I opted to use the engine computer from a 00' ls1 for my swap.

 

Just a few more pics I still plan on starting her up this weekend.

 

And here is a couple of my MAF/CAI

 

my 96 s10 6.0

 

nice!!