For you LS1 Chevelle guys, what are u using for a fuel tank? I'd love to go to Rock Valley and buy a custom stainless tank for my 1972 LS! Chevelle, but at $800, thats out of my budget. I may heard that a fuel tank out of a 94 or so Impala may work, Is this true? If so, how are the configuring that system to fit (lines and such)? Thanks!

 

My project 71 is finsihing the setup now with a 95' Impala (costed me $50) with the Racetronix B-Body kit (Wallbro 255lph pump and their standalone wiring kit for $155.00). Using a 99' Corvette Filter/Regulator(GF822). I am just now finishing this up. I already had a 3/8" stainless steel line front to back.

The only question or problem you will have is that the tanks sender housing is taller that the rest of the tank, so you will either space the tank down (one chevelle guy that) or cut the trunk floor. ( I cut and make a inspection pane, I make a 1/8" x 1" frame around the cut both top and bottom to re-enforce the area of the trunk floor and then use u-nuts and bolts with a home made gasket). I used 1/8"x1" steel straps to hold up the tank.

Search the forum, you will find information of others doing the Impala tank swap.

blackrose90 did a good job

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=impala+tank

 

Korndawg, let me know if you need an impala tank. I have one that I didn't use in my lt1 swap and I want to get rid of it. Where are you located at?

 

I would go with bczee for ideas. I am running a ATI cell in mine, so i am of no help

 

I had my Chevelle tank sumped and used a external pump. works great but my fuel system was not cheep.

 

I have been seriously considering that route for my chevelle. Did they add internal baffles to your tank as well? If not you ever have any pump starvation issues upon hard acceleration?

 

No the guy that did mine said that this will work great he worked for Roush for years then took up fabing for his own buisness. He drilled 5 1/2 holes in the stock tank then added the sump over them to the back of the tank. no prob for me. It feeds a Aeromotive A1000 pump fine.

 

Thats a pretty good trick I haven't thought of that one. How did he attach the sump to the tank did he weld it or bolt it on or rivets or what?

 

This is a commond way of sumping the tank to keep fuel in the sump area. It does work well. I thought of going this route at 1st. COMPETITION ENGINEERING makes a kit to do this for under $70.00 (can get it from summit racing $61.88)
http://www.competitionengineering.co...?CatCode=10070

There web site has instructions to install and what it will take.

You will need to get the tank cleaned and good welder. Many Welder will not touch a used tank and you will have to get a new 1st.

You can also use a Tanks Inc. in tank pump and sump. This kit requires no welding and can be used with most tanks. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...prod/prd84.htm

Here is a url of a install from the The Detail Zone
http://www.thedetailzone.com/Tanks%2...%20Install.htm

Warning: If the car is driven on the streets and highways. Check your local and Highway laws. It may not be legal for your area.. as it is not were I live. With the lines exposed from the back of the new sump, it becomes a safety factor for street drive cars. This reason and the other cost was my reason for going with the Impala tank. Suggest you get some pictures of other peoples jobs on the sump.

Good luck.

 

I've got the comp engineering sump on my Camaro tank, very nice piece. New tank was only 90 bucks or so.

 

I had him Tig the sump in it looks good and worked great.

 

How would you do the in tank pump. I see that the flange that holds it in is flat but the top of the chevelle tank is not it has those raised areas that give the tank strength. So how would you make it seal over those humps?

 

Like so.


-Matt

 

One word of warning from my research for a cheap solution.... with what I had to do for the Impala tank sender and lines sitting up higher that the rest of the tank.. with the Tanks INC kit, you will also need to cut or clearance the trunk floor pan for the lines and fittings to clear. It looks like they added a flat panel to the top of the tank,
With the Tanks INC kit.. you need at lease 6 1/2" to 7" in height for the kit to fit into the tank. The stock Chevelle tanks are just about that height on the forward end and I have heard that they just fit.

This is one of the reason why my cheap solution was the Impala tank. It also gave me 2 more gal's of capacity and was already baffled. The Cons to using the Impala tank was that the back end of the tank is not slanted up like a stock Chevelle tank. But I think it will not be a problem.

Good luck.

 

Did you have to modify the rear frame rails on your 71 for the Imapala Tank to clear? One of the guys on chevelles.com did on his 66(?)

thanks,

 

I see that would definitely work. Did you just weld that plate to the existing tank? The reason I asked is because they definitely did not do that if you look at the pictures in the link posted above (http://www.thedetailzone.com/Tanks%2...%20Install.htm)

 

They do not show the final product. I've read it before and mentioned that they had to hammer it down...

Mine was brazed on. Pressure tested and all.

I'll be re-doing it again soon. Baffle the **** out of the tank or just sell this and go with a fuel cell(but I hate opening the trunk to fill it). Plus I want to pack the girls and my luggage in the back.

-Matt

 

Ya baffling would definitely be a plus.

 

Look what schitzo did.. He sunk it so you dont need to clearance your trunk floor..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=14

olly

 

I added a few 1x1 square tubing and used some rubber between the rails and the tank (the straps also) for isolation to make sure that the tank has a good area to seat on and as I tighten the straps all would not shift or wear on the plastic tank. I didn't post this before, but I did have to trim the frame about 1/4" narrower near the rear of the tank/frame, as the the frame narrowed in on spot for a inches or two. I just used some tape and a cutting wheel.

I read one guy used a spacer on the rail that was 3 1/2" in the front and down to 1 1/2" in the rear to get the tank to slope. I dummy up some to try that, but it made the tank even lower !

I am just finishing up the lines and will have more pictures if you want to see them, let me know.