wait4me

iTrader: (10)

The commercial version is not needed really, If you guys send the pcms to me, i convert them to the custom os for free, then you can do as you wish with it. The personal version can edit them just the same as a commercial version or workshop version. Or, as you say, the commercial upgrade is only $150.

With that custom os though, you can make it not start very easily, as well as a 0 or 1 mph speed limiter ect..

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Be sneaky about it. Put a switch on the crankshaft position sensor Everything will "appear" normal, except nothing will work.

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

i think i'll put a switch on the power to the fuel pump relay on mine, for when it's parked for long periods of time, and have a switch to IGN hidden somewhere sneaky. (a friend of mine put a switch INSIDE the shift boot in his miata, you just poked down the boot and felt the toggle).

brains- wouldnt that interfere with the sensor's function?

72ChevelleConv.LS1

iTrader: (5)

Still a switch but you could switch the line going to the injectors their is a hot to each bank and if you want, you could do the same for the coil pack hots maby two switches and have one in the up pos to work and one in the down to work.. just a thought..

jdperk-86elco

Guys I like this discussion as it is envoking thought....

Granted any hidden switch can be found but the point is to deter and make the possiblity of driving off with the car difficult. Granted if they really want the car they could knock one out and take the keys but if they didn't know about the added hidden features that would be a deterent.

So my thoughts are that some sort of dual but independent defeat would be be the answer. One for long term or fool proof theft and another simpler one for everyday use where both can be used at any time.

The Fuel pump would be a simple lockout solution. Adding back in the VATS could be a long term solution if it can be removed and added back in easy enough but not required to be removed for daily use.

I think that to just break run power to the PCM allong with maybe an independent fuel pump lockout might be the route I will go. I need to verify that breaking the run power to the PCM will not harm the PCM.

Hiding a switch under the flexible rubber boot is injeanous as it is hidden and also can be actuated easily.

I was also thinking of putting a switch on either the brake pedal and/or gas pedal that they had to be pressed at least once before starting and had a 5 second timer so that the car must be started in that time or it would automatically locked out. That way it would be simple to use everyday and not obvious to anyone.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

For everyone who is using a truck computer/tune you cannot enable the VATS and use a bypass box because the truck PCM`s
need a serial data signal from the BCM, it cannot be
duplicated by a bypass box, you might be able to do
that if you run an f-body program in your PCM, but I
am not sure if you can run an f-body program. I have
never done any tuning yet.

jeremymcclure

the quickest and cheapest way is to use a relay thats hooked up to the purple starter wire linked to a power source that gets power from you doing something in the car...

eg. hold the high beams lit while cranking over, if highbeems arent lit engine wont crank.

thats the best way because there are no added switches, just a 6 dollar relay from radio shack!!

ill try to write a schematic on how to do it but its simple enough for the basic mechanice that knows how to wire a relay

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

jeremy, that's an awesome idea.

jeremymcclure

thanks i have done it before a couple of times and it works real good


i know theres better diadgrams somewhere but i found that one quick

flatlander757

What about making it so you have to have the HVAC controls in designated areas like a combination lock... but inconspicuously hidden.

IE: for the starter to get power, you must have the 3 ***** in the "#2 blower speed," "temp control **** all the way in the cold(left)," AND "blower position: mixed"

Sneaky sneaky

Only flaw is they could possibly crawl under and "jump" the starter... but really, I think that would be such a pain the *** to do that they wouldn't bother.

I think it would be ideal to make a "combination lock" out of the HVAC controls to control the fuel pump, but only problem is that I think you would have to drive around with the controls where you had them predetermined. I'm sure there's some way to make it that the fuel pump runs from it's normal source after a few seconds so that you aren't forced to always run with the fans where you set them.



What about making a secondary switch in-line with ALL of your exterior lights so that as soon as a cop sees him without brake-lights or (at night) running lights?

One last thought I had... what about a switch that has a resistor to drop voltage to the starter so it doesn't have the juice to turn over. This same switch will cut the fuel off so that if the guy decides that he REALLY wants your car and jumps it, it won't run after he has gone through that trouble.

A good idea for a hidden switch IMO would be the "AM" button for your radio Or any other radio button that you never use for that matter.

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

I had something similar in my car last summer but got sick of it and took of. I used a relay like jeremymcclure had mentioned. It was connected to the purple wire that goes to the starter. The turn on for the relay was hooked to the auto antenna from my receiver.

The car would only start if you turned to FM/AM mode. Since I hardly ever listen to radio, I always had to switch to FM for the car to start.

It was a nice setup and very few people could figure out how to start my car but it got old pretty fast

I am still using the relay hooked up to the same circuit but is activated/deactivated in a different very sneaky way

70 LS1

iTrader: (1)

Talk about overkill. I like the single relay method that Jeremy mentioned.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

this is for your 86 elky, correct?

i find that the best security system is one that does NOT have to be turned on by the user... a "passive" device, rather then a "active" one. every idea i see above (besides the trunk monkey, lol) envolves a switch..

while effective, i think thats a poor solution.

GM had/has a great idea with VATS... no "chip", no crank and no start..
VATS is truly a simple device... heres the basis of how it works:

the "chip" on the key, is not a microchip at all. it is a simple resistor. nothing more.
when inserted into the column, two contacts touch the key, connecting this resistor to the "vats box".

if the resistor is correct resistance, the vats box does two things:
grounds the starter relay
sends a pulse signal to the PCM.


in otherwords, its a starter kill, and it doesnt tell the PCM its ok to start.

really, really simple.
heres how to put it in your car:

for GM cars, this is really easy... you can either swap columns, or even easier, swap the key lock cyl in the column for a VATS one.. the VATS one has two THIN wires.. slide thoes down the column

snag a VATS box off of any "passkey I" car.. i prefer 3rdgen fbodies, but only because i know them well.

the wiring is pretty simple... power, ground, vats key wires, PCM signal wire and starter relay ground wire.


if you're really intrested in doing this, i can give you more indepth info, but basiclly, with this system, the car is almost impossible to steal without a towtruck.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Which PCM wire? I am interested if I can get i to work with my Truck computer.

And as far as being able to tow it away that is what a quadralock is for, push the brake pedal, turn the key and the brakes on all 4 wheels are now locked. Better bring a jack, some rollers, a couple people, and a flatbed

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

or a pair of dikes for the brake lines

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Only if your proficient at driving with the parking brake, but the way I figure it if someone gets in my car and doesn`t know what there in for they won`t be able to drive it anyway, I will just have to check at the first corner or slightly down the street if its raining or snowing. Traction whats traction? The parking brake won`t slow them down nearly enough if they don`t know what happens when you hit the loud pedal

Although I guess you could just cut the lines if you were going to tow the car, guess thats why I never put a quadralock on.

jdperk-86elco

Yeah, this is for my 86 El Camino and what you brought up was my final solution. I want a passive system and not a active one and I was thinking of going the resistor key route. However I am not sure I can make that VATS ignition cylinder fit into my stock Elco column, so I was thinking of installing it in my custom console I will make down the road.

As Gbody states that the truck PCM isn't capable of the VATS however since it is GM then I thought all GMs in that year range (2002 for my PCM) had the resistor key. I could be mistaken.

So anyway I am interested in that route so what do I need to accomplish this new key setup?

New Ignition key
VATS box (is this a separate item I can find?)
How do I connect it to the PCM and also turn on that function in the PCM)
So this entails placing a relay inline with the starter ignition wire?

I was thinking of fuel pump relay and also the PCM run power disconnecting along with the starter wire.

I want more information on how to make this work in my stock 86 El Camino without changing the column for now.

Also there is a ham radio GPS device that I was thinking about hiding under the dash that will broadcast the cars location. So if it does get stolen I can track it on the computer.

70 LS1

iTrader: (1)

Its not that the trucks don't use VATS. They just do it in a different way. The PCM and BCM are connected through a serial data line and the VATS signal is sent through here. It doesn't use the 5V 50Hz Signal that the other cars use.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

This system is installed in my 01 Silverado:

http://www.transponder-security.com/main.html

Completely passive. Without the little wand on my key chain, the truck will not go. Not sure how much it would cost, but might be a tried and true system you could have installed that would be trouble free. One of the concerns I have about home made soultions is sometimes they are not thought out enough and could end up leaving your rig disabled even when YOU want it to go.

Pat

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

GM was nice enough to leave the PWM signal code in there on their serial trucks.... so all you need is HPtuners/EFIlive and select PWM instead of Serial (or none) and you can then do what i was talking about above.