Stumbles when I get on it?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 108
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From: NJ
Stumbles when I get on it? I drove my for the first time today after long time conversion due to finishing with the paint and interior.
My car is a 67 Camaro and I have a 2001 LS1 with 6 speed. When I get on the gas to shift it stumbles, bogs like does not get enough gas feeling. I put a clear glas filter between the gas tank and the fuel pump,Would that be restrictive?
Another question is I have slapping sound coming from the driver side by the firewall, what would that be? ( I have a broken Exhaust bolt in driver side but in the front)
Any toughts Why I have this problems?
Thanks
My car is a 67 Camaro and I have a 2001 LS1 with 6 speed. When I get on the gas to shift it stumbles, bogs like does not get enough gas feeling. I put a clear glas filter between the gas tank and the fuel pump,Would that be restrictive?
Another question is I have slapping sound coming from the driver side by the firewall, what would that be? ( I have a broken Exhaust bolt in driver side but in the front)
Any toughts Why I have this problems?
Thanks
Originally Posted by rwb
Is it carb or FI?? If its carb the glass filter is ok, otherwise it is a large restriction for FI. Fi runs at 58 psi where as a carb is 7 psi.
Andrew
My friends Nova does the same thing, he's got a 350 HO crate engine though.
He just had the carb rebuilt and tuned, changed the plugs, checked the distributor, and adjusted the timing, but it still hesitates and stumbles when you first get on the gas. If you accelerate lightly its fine, and if you floor it it stumbles for a second or two and then it runs smooth. Sometimes it will stall if you push the gas too hard from a stop, which leads me to believe its flooding or leaning out, but we adjusted the floats, idle, and A/F screw to the correct settings.
We can't figure out what it is, maybe someone else has some insight??
He just had the carb rebuilt and tuned, changed the plugs, checked the distributor, and adjusted the timing, but it still hesitates and stumbles when you first get on the gas. If you accelerate lightly its fine, and if you floor it it stumbles for a second or two and then it runs smooth. Sometimes it will stall if you push the gas too hard from a stop, which leads me to believe its flooding or leaning out, but we adjusted the floats, idle, and A/F screw to the correct settings.
We can't figure out what it is, maybe someone else has some insight??
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 108
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From: NJ
I get rid of the glass filter today and still does the same think but not that bad. It sort of goes flat when I push the gas to shift. I dont know what the hell is going on.
It is a LS1 fuel injected engine by the way.
It is a LS1 fuel injected engine by the way.
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I would check the basic things first. Fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, spark etc.
Then the next thing would be to scan it. Hptuners has been priceless to me a couple of times, I believe its something that all DIY'ers should have. Good luck.
Then the next thing would be to scan it. Hptuners has been priceless to me a couple of times, I believe its something that all DIY'ers should have. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by pt67camarols1
Does volt at the fuel pump makes any difrence? I remember reading that it should have 13.5 volt at the pump
Andrew
In my '67, i've got the rear mounted battery by the passenger wheelwell in the back, with a short 1' piece of 8gau going to the relay, then another short 2' piece going to the walbro.. mine tested at 13.7v when I flipped the relay on.. just a suggestion.
olly
olly
Originally Posted by pt67camarols1
I checked the voltage at the pump and it is 12.80V. Is that good enough?
Andrew
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 108
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by Cop Car
are you MAF or SD? if your MAF is unpluged, or you dont have it tuned out it would cause it to stumble and not want to idle very well either
I realy dont know what it is. Speartech did it for me. It is a manuel car and I change the gears does it make a difrence?
I will check the fuel pressure but how can I watch it under load while I'm driving? Gauges I saw does not have long hose connection on them.
Last edited by pt67camarols1; Jun 14, 2006 at 11:13 PM.
just attach your fuel pressure gauge to the rail, and flick the throttle. there is a set amount of fuel required for the airflow at an RPM, if it was going to stutter, it will. The gears make no difference which one they're in.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 108
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by 67RSCamaroVette
just attach your fuel pressure gauge to the rail, and flick the throttle. there is a set amount of fuel required for the airflow at an RPM, if it was going to stutter, it will. The gears make no difference which one they're in.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
The voltage to your pump is fine, the pressure is a little low. If you have an adjustable regulator turn it up to 58 psi. Then try it.
What we do here is tape the fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and go out and get on it. That's the real test to see if the fuel system is set up correctly. Even with the fuel pressure correct at idle, the pressure can drop under real operating conditions and the only way to check it is to get on it down the road, with gauge attached, so you can SEE what affect the inertia of accelerating is having on the fuel system.
That's how you root out the cheap pumps, small lines, crummy fuel filters, and poor tank baffling!
A happy fuel system is 58 PSI at WOT!
What we do here is tape the fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and go out and get on it. That's the real test to see if the fuel system is set up correctly. Even with the fuel pressure correct at idle, the pressure can drop under real operating conditions and the only way to check it is to get on it down the road, with gauge attached, so you can SEE what affect the inertia of accelerating is having on the fuel system.
That's how you root out the cheap pumps, small lines, crummy fuel filters, and poor tank baffling!
A happy fuel system is 58 PSI at WOT!
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
John,
You mention "That's how you root out the cheap pumps, small lines, crummy fuel filters, and poor tank baffling!"
What is too small in regard to the fuel feed line? I will probably be running about 6 1/2 ft. of line to a stock LS1 motor. Bigger is usually better, but I want to know what are the size limitations.
Thanks,
Andy1
You mention "That's how you root out the cheap pumps, small lines, crummy fuel filters, and poor tank baffling!"
What is too small in regard to the fuel feed line? I will probably be running about 6 1/2 ft. of line to a stock LS1 motor. Bigger is usually better, but I want to know what are the size limitations.
Thanks,
Andy1
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
I wouldn't go smaller than 3/8" for the supply line. And, that will also carry you thru several horsepower mods if you decide to up the power later.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com