pt67camarols1

I drove my for the first time today after long time conversion due to finishing with the paint and interior.
My car is a 67 Camaro and I have a 2001 LS1 with 6 speed. When I get on the gas to shift it stumbles, bogs like does not get enough gas feeling. I put a clear glas filter between the gas tank and the fuel pump,Would that be restrictive?
Another question is I have slapping sound coming from the driver side by the firewall, what would that be? ( I have a broken Exhaust bolt in driver side but in the front)
Any toughts Why I have this problems?
Thanks

StngKlr

iTrader: (18)

I would check the fuel pressure at the motor first. Then scan/log it to see whats going on.

Good Luck.

rwb

Is it carb or FI?? If its carb the glass filter is ok, otherwise it is a large restriction for FI. Fi runs at 58 psi where as a carb is 7 psi.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Agreed! Those glass filters are junk. Check fuel pressure at the rail.

Andrew

pt67camarols1

I tought so. I will cancel that tomorrow and put a new line from tank to fuel pump since I have a efi filter after the fuel pump

Domestic Demon

iTrader: (1)

My friends Nova does the same thing, he's got a 350 HO crate engine though.

He just had the carb rebuilt and tuned, changed the plugs, checked the distributor, and adjusted the timing, but it still hesitates and stumbles when you first get on the gas. If you accelerate lightly its fine, and if you floor it it stumbles for a second or two and then it runs smooth. Sometimes it will stall if you push the gas too hard from a stop, which leads me to believe its flooding or leaning out, but we adjusted the floats, idle, and A/F screw to the correct settings.

We can't figure out what it is, maybe someone else has some insight??

pt67camarols1

I get rid of the glass filter today and still does the same think but not that bad. It sort of goes flat when I push the gas to shift. I dont know what the hell is going on.
It is a LS1 fuel injected engine by the way.

StngKlr

iTrader: (18)

I would check the basic things first. Fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, spark etc.
Then the next thing would be to scan it. Hptuners has been priceless to me a couple of times, I believe its something that all DIY'ers should have. Good luck.

pt67camarols1

Does volt at the fuel pump makes any difrence? I remember reading that it should have 13.5 volt at the pump

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The pump should be seeing a minimum of 12 volts. The best way to wire a pum p is through a relay that draws power directly from the battery. THe relay is triggered by the PCM. I have mine wired this way and the pump sees about 14 volts all the time.

Andrew

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

In my '67, i've got the rear mounted battery by the passenger wheelwell in the back, with a short 1' piece of 8gau going to the relay, then another short 2' piece going to the walbro.. mine tested at 13.7v when I flipped the relay on.. just a suggestion.
olly

pt67camarols1

I checked the voltage at the pump and it is 12.80V. Is that good enough?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

That should be fine. Did you check fuel pressure?

Andrew

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

are you MAF or SD? if your MAF is unpluged, or you dont have it tuned out it would cause it to stumble and not want to idle very well either

pt67camarols1

It idles very well.

I realy dont know what it is. Speartech did it for me. It is a manuel car and I change the gears does it make a difrence?

I will check the fuel pressure but how can I watch it under load while I'm driving? Gauges I saw does not have long hose connection on them.

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

just attach your fuel pressure gauge to the rail, and flick the throttle. there is a set amount of fuel required for the airflow at an RPM, if it was going to stutter, it will. The gears make no difference which one they're in.

pt67camarols1

I checked the fuel pressure today and it is 49/50 at idle. It goes up when I give gas. Is that enough?

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

The voltage to your pump is fine, the pressure is a little low. If you have an adjustable regulator turn it up to 58 psi. Then try it.

What we do here is tape the fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and go out and get on it. That's the real test to see if the fuel system is set up correctly. Even with the fuel pressure correct at idle, the pressure can drop under real operating conditions and the only way to check it is to get on it down the road, with gauge attached, so you can SEE what affect the inertia of accelerating is having on the fuel system.

That's how you root out the cheap pumps, small lines, crummy fuel filters, and poor tank baffling!

A happy fuel system is 58 PSI at WOT!

Andy1

John,

You mention "That's how you root out the cheap pumps, small lines, crummy fuel filters, and poor tank baffling!"

What is too small in regard to the fuel feed line? I will probably be running about 6 1/2 ft. of line to a stock LS1 motor. Bigger is usually better, but I want to know what are the size limitations.

Thanks,
Andy1

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

I wouldn't go smaller than 3/8" for the supply line. And, that will also carry you thru several horsepower mods if you decide to up the power later.