ETC throttle body acting funny
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Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 278
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ETC throttle body acting funny Fired the engine up yesterday and it sounds great! It's a 6.0L with ECT in an older chevy truck. The idle is a little whacky though. When started it revs up a little like normal in any fuel injected car, then quiets down, but then if I play with the ETC pedal sometimes it will stay in a high rev position and stick even when the pedal is all the way out. It will also die here and there. I had the throttle body off at one point when swapping the intake and cleaned it pretty good so I don't think it's sticking open. Is my PCM learning how to compensate for my CAI and my headers or is it just a problem with the throttle body sticking?
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We have an LS2 TBW in the '66 El Camino which is the give away car for next year. Stock manifolds with 2.5" Flowmaster all the way back and a custom made air intake. No problems with the TBW. The throttle blade should move freely from 100% open to 0% open and not stick at all. Is the blade physically stuck in the throttle bore? Is your pedal getting stuck on some carpet or the transmission tunnel? Are you getting any codes for the TAC module? Does the TPS signal move smoothly from 0% to 100% when you throttle the pedal with key on engine off?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 4
Is the blade physically stuck in the throttle bore?
Don't think so. I had the TB out when replacing the intake and it seemed to move freely when cleaning it.
Is your pedal getting stuck on some carpet or the transmission tunnel?
No
Are you getting any codes for the TAC module?
I have a cheap scan tool on order off ebay
Does the TPS signal move smoothly from 0% to 100% when you throttle the pedal with key on engine off?
How do I check that function?
Don't think so. I had the TB out when replacing the intake and it seemed to move freely when cleaning it.
Is your pedal getting stuck on some carpet or the transmission tunnel?
No
Are you getting any codes for the TAC module?
I have a cheap scan tool on order off ebay
Does the TPS signal move smoothly from 0% to 100% when you throttle the pedal with key on engine off?
How do I check that function?
Originally Posted by Blackdog76
Does the TPS signal move smoothly from 0% to 100% when you throttle the pedal with key on engine off?
How do I check that function?
How do I check that function?
-Matt
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 274
Likes: 4
From: Kansas City, MO
Sounds like the idle position is changing if the engine would die. I suggest you check a few things:
1. Check your MAP sensor to make sure it is connected as the engine will run but not well.
2. Check all vacuum lines to ensure you do not have a vacuum leak any where.
3. Now check and clean the throttle position sensor to ensure it is making good connection and the wiring is not broken.
I purchased EFILive which was expensive but totally helpful in diagnosing any issues. Maybe you can find a buddy close by that has HPTuners or EFILIve or LS1Edit that could connect to your PCM and help diagnose the signals.
1. Check your MAP sensor to make sure it is connected as the engine will run but not well.
2. Check all vacuum lines to ensure you do not have a vacuum leak any where.
3. Now check and clean the throttle position sensor to ensure it is making good connection and the wiring is not broken.
I purchased EFILive which was expensive but totally helpful in diagnosing any issues. Maybe you can find a buddy close by that has HPTuners or EFILIve or LS1Edit that could connect to your PCM and help diagnose the signals.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 4
Tested the throttle body today and it's working great. It's a smooth transition from 0 to 100% with the key on and the throttle blade visable. I did notice a high pitched whine sound comming from somewhere around the intake so I might have a vacume leak, or is that a normal sound??? Checked the MAP sensor and the connection was good. Also gave it a little tug and it came right out of the intake. If it isn't in there very good do I need to buy a new one? When the engine was running I pressed down hard on it and the engine didn't seem to run any different. I did notice another thing also. The check engine light isn't comming on before I start the motor every time. I think my ignition switch or wiring might be bad, I'll have to check it. Still waiting on a scan tool I bought off ebay to see if there are any codes. Check engine light doesn't stay on after the engine starts though.
Originally Posted by Blackdog76
Tested the throttle body today and it's working great. It's a smooth transition from 0 to 100% with the key on and the throttle blade visable. I did notice a high pitched whine sound comming from somewhere around the intake so I might have a vacume leak, or is that a normal sound??? Checked the MAP sensor and the connection was good. Also gave it a little tug and it came right out of the intake. If it isn't in there very good do I need to buy a new one? When the engine was running I pressed down hard on it and the engine didn't seem to run any different. I did notice another thing also. The check engine light isn't comming on before I start the motor every time. I think my ignition switch or wiring might be bad, I'll have to check it. Still waiting on a scan tool I bought off ebay to see if there are any codes. Check engine light doesn't stay on after the engine starts though.
-Matt
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 278
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Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
I still have that same problem too. No check engine light coming on when I start... Does your tach happen to work?
-Matt
-Matt
Well, here's where my vacume leak was comming from. I took the purge solenoid off when swapping my intake. I never put it back on
I have open headers, no exhaust yet and I can't annoy the whole neighborhood this time of night so I haven't started the motor yet. I did notice another thing. The purge solenoid, at least on the LS1 trucks isn't mounted very firmly. The mounting screw is off to the side and has that rubber peice on it so the sensor has some play. Any reason for this? I'm just paranoid of vacume leaks now. But then again that giant hole that I had was the mother of all vacume leaks. With the solenoid in place it should at least run better.
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