chrisp3

Hey gang,

First off I want to say hi, and I wouldn’t even try to do this if it weren’t for this group. Trying to do the ‘LS1 69 Camaro’ thing and trying to complete it within 9 months by myself. Motor/trans are mounted. Wiring, fuel, and exhaust are in progress. I have read over past post and ‘stickys’ about this swap but am still confused on some of the wiring and other general questions. Hopefully, someone could shed some light on some of these subjects.

The yard that I bought the motor/trans from said it was a 2000. I believe this is a ’98 or ’99 motor because of the valve cover bolt pattern, (around the cover). It has the 4L60E. Can I tell exactly what year the motor is?

One of the pictures that I have included is of the wiring harness. I am unsure of the placement of some of the connectors (that I have numbered) in relation to where they go on the engine. I believe they are mostly emissions related and will not be used, but hope someone could point me in the right direction as their proper location.
(Connector 1, 2, 3, 4, and 13) are just after the big blue PCM connector.
(Connector 5, 12, and 6) I think 12 (single red wire) is supposed to connect to the alternator. The connector end must have been torn off in the crash on the previous car as the alternator and mount were crushed!
(Connector 8, 9, and 10) all three go through the firewall and inside the car. I would assume that one of them is for the diagnostic outlet.
(Connector 11) has the foil heat wrap around it and is on the passenger side.

Which wire does the fuel pump get its signal from on the harness? {I would connect it to a relay before it gets to the pump, of course.}

I will be using the BRP rack steering, so steering box and all linkage are gone.
Will any aftermarket exhaust header fit? I have read that the long tube headers are the best choice and I am thinking of going with the new Hooker header, (uncoated), designed for this swap.
That should do it for now. Please help if you can.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

I think the Hooker headers are real expensive. Also, sent you a pm.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

Sorry I am not any help on the wiring as I used a custom hraness for mine. Hopefully others will chime in. As for your motor, only the 97s and 98s had perimeter bolts on the valve cover. So, if it is not a Corvette motor, then it is a 98. There is a laser etched number on the block, on the driver side just behind the oil filter. If you can get that number you can figure out the year and also the VIN of the original car.

Good luck with your project, keep us posted.

Pat

chrisp3

thought i posted this but i guess i didn't.....

can anyone tell me what the 3 connectors that go inside the car are labled? i think they sre c100, c101, c105 but not sure.
and the 2 connectors for the pcm? check out what my pcm has stamped on it in the pics. I have not seen a refrence to these numbers anywhere.
btw it's a 98.

thanks

GET_SOM

those hooker headers are pretty expensive, ive looked into some of them (im contimplating a lsx chevelle swap).. try pming malibuman69 for wiring help... hes got an ls1 wiring diagram he can give ya

chrisp3

is around $500 expensive for the hooker headers? what other alternatives do i have in that range or lower? I was told that the normal (cheaper?) ls1 headers (for 98-02) wouldn't fit within the 69 frame rails or that they would not give enough ground clearance.....
what are others using for headers?
long tube or short?

thanks

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

dont even think about short headers. they're worthless, the LS1 manifolds flow just as well and dont have the exothermic heat issue. Go longtubes or go home. I'd go for the hookers, they arent THAT expensive, especially for a swap header, and they'll provide and increase in power, be easy, and fit right.
olly

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

There are 5 connectors that you need to worry about. C100, C101, C105 are underhood connectors and C220 and C230 are the connectors that go into the car. You will need some of the wires from all of the connectors. Did you look at my 98 camaro wiring document in the FAQ sticky, that should help a lot.

chrisp3

Thanks olly for enlightening me on the shorty headers. I’ll defiantly go with the long tube. My girlfriend has an exothermic heat issue right now and I don’t want that in my life as much as possible.

And G-body, yes I do have your 98 Camaro wiring document in the FAQ from the sticky, I have it framed as a matter of fact.
Except, I still can’t tell which connector you are referring to as the 2 that go inside the car. I mean, my harness has 3 connectors that go inside the car as you can see in my harness pic on my first post. (I have these labeled as 8, 9, 10. (They are blue, white, and a long white.) I am guessing that the long white connector is not used…?...
Then, there are the 3 connectors that you speak of that go under the hood. I know that 2 of them must be the big red and big blue but which is the other?

I wish someone could point to me, on my pic, which 2 connectors are the C220 and C230 that go under the hood, and which 3 connectors are the C100, C101, C105 that go under the hood.

chrisp3

OK,
so i had a chance to run out to the car just before going to work and snaped a couple more pics. things are begining to make a little more sense now.
i printed g-bodys wiring instructions and printed instructions i found from this link http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/3LS18.html and it's starting to come together now.

BUT,
is the long white connector, ( the one next to C220 and C230 ), not used. no one ever mentions this one? what is it for anyway?
AND,
there are only a couple of wires that don't jive with my harness and the two sets of instructions. major increase in knowledge. thanks guys

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Which wires are different between the harnesses?

Sorry I can`t be of much help ID`ing the connectors in the pics, I never worked on an f-body.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I believe the white connector is C210, it is for the fuel gauge, fuel tank pressure sensor, and EVAP canister vent valve solenoid.

chrisp3

first off, on the C101(gray) connector, my 'E' pinout is solid pink. everywhere else i see it written that it is pink/blk stripe. what gives??and does it really matter?? what I mean is, should it get switched power with a 15A fuse??

next, on my C220(white)connector, I am trying to get the correct pinout colors. i have seen some of the color codes on Grannys site and they do not jive with what i have for some reason. I have not seen color codes for this connector on this fourm.
mine are as follows:
A RED
B TAN
C BRN/WHT
D N/A
E N/A
F BLK/WHT
G DKGRN/WHT
H N/A
J YEL/BLK
K DKGRN G-BODY I hope you chime in here!!!

then theres the subject of the fuse panel....
i have seen others using the fuse panel from other makes of cars for the under hood and in car panel. Wouldn't it be alot easier to use underhood and in car fuse panels from the correct year donor car?? That way almost everything would just plug into it... (In my case it would be the 98 F-body)....

thanks for the help

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I had to look at the diagram to figure that one out . Everyone says it is a pnk/blk wire because in the connector pinouts that what it is listed as, But it changes color. From the underhood electrical center to the connector it is pink/blk. But from the connector to the computer it is just a pink wire with no trace. So you are ok, just disregard the black trace on everyones schematics, there is only a black trace on the part of the harness that you don`t have or need.

The colors that you have listed are correct according to the alldata diagrams.
Yes and no, if the fuse panel contains relays already for the fans and you had it or could get it cheap then it is probably worth it. But if the fuse panel does not have relays already in it then it would not really be much help. To hook up the fuses you only need like 5 wires so that isn`t really a big deal.

chrisp3

so, in that case all i would need is..........

a fuse for each of the following:

pcm
2 oxygen sensors
ignition
obd2 connector
left injectors
right injectors
fuel pump

2 relays for fans (low and high)? a relay for fuel pump? what else?

68LS1WANNABE

Don't mean to hack the thread but I've new at wiring so hear's my ? If I get the LS1/4l60 combo with computer and harness will it be easier to use the original harness or buy the Painless wiring LS1 kit. I would rather spend a little more money either way for the smoothest and easy operation.

chrisp3

The painless harness is of course the easiest way to go. and it now sells for $500.(I think it used to go for over $1000!!) they give you all labled connections and a underhood fuse-panel. no relay's though, but not a big deal. And I have never heard anything bad about them except their price.

Since I am on a time schedule to finish this car, I considered this option so I gave them a call today during lunch. Wasn't too impressed with thier tech guy that i talked to. Anyway, I had some time to kill, and am kinda on the fence about going with them, I mean I am so close now.

But it also amounts to how much you know about electrical wiring, and i would call this "basic" electrical wiring. Especially since some of the guys on this board have pretty much laid everything thing out on how to do this.
there is a ton of info on this site as i am sure you have read...
And I have just scanned some of a bud's factory manual schematics for the 98 which i will soon post.

building one of these cars is all about choice, from bumper to bumper. And now there are a ton of vendors selling a ton of "the easy way to go" parts. Get out your cash.

TT402LS1

iTrader: (5)

You might want to give Street & Performance a call. They sell wiring harnesses that they modifiy to fit your applacation for around $900.00. A little spendy, but everything is labeled and ready to plug in.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

My recomendation for either a modified stock harness or a custom harness is Speartech. He made a custom harness for me, exactly to my length specs so I could locate my ECU where I wanted it and he even extended the O2 sensor leads to reach the ports below my headers. Everything was labled and a diagram provided, harness is super clean and good looking. His customer service has been great and every question I've asked he has had an accurate reply. The man knmows what he is doing! I know his prices are less than S&P, I don't know about Painless. Plus he sponsors this board and participates here to answer questions for folks.

Give him a look www.speartech.com

Pat

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

a fuse for each of the following:

pcm You will need 2, a battery constant fuse and a IGN fuse

2 oxygen sensors Yes, this is the engine sensor fuse in my document

ignition You will need 2 fuses, one for each bank

obd2 connector No, not really, I would tie this into your existing cigarette lighter fuse


left injectors Yes

right injectors Yes

fuel pump Yes

2 relays for fans (low and high)? a relay for fuel pump? Yes to all of these.

You could hook it up with less fuses, but if you follow the hookup like I have in my document in the sticky it will be fused in the same way as GM did it. I like to retain GM`s method of fusing the motor since I am sure a lot of thought went into it. IE: I think the DLC power comes from the lighter fuse so that if the underhood panel loses power there is still power at the DLC to power up a scanner, if you short out a coil on one bank the the other side will still work and you might be able to make it home, etc.

In my sticky post you will also notice that there are 6 relays, two for the high/low fans, one for the fuel pump, and then there are 3 that may seem to be extra. The first 3 relays listed in the write up just switch on IGN power to everything. While you could get rid of them and just draw power for the engine harness from your ignition I put those relays in to mirror what GM does. Most new cars have relays set up like that so that the HUGE electrical load does not get placed on the ignition switch. If you look at the fuse ratings for just the LS1 engine harness IGN hot fuses there is a potential for an 80 Amp draw across the ignition switch, and that does not even take into account the draw from your cars existing wiring. By including the first 3 relays you get rid of a lot of draw on the IGN switch, which will keep electrial problems to a minimum. If you have a large draw on an IGN switch you may have too low of a voltage, or overheat the contacts and burn the switch up. GM did not design the older IGN switches with an extra 80 amps of capacity.