Rewiring 2001 Camaro harness with questions
08-27-2006, 11:01 PM
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Rewiring 2001 Camaro harness with questions I am rewiring the stock harness from a 2001 Camaro and I have a few questions:
1. What controls the ignition retard signal going to the PCM? What is it for? When and why retard the timing?
2. What is CPP? what controls the CPP signal?
3. Do I need the serial line to the PCM?
4. How the fuel enable signal works?
Thanks for any replies.
Vinh
1. What controls the ignition retard signal going to the PCM? What is it for? When and why retard the timing?
2. What is CPP? what controls the CPP signal?
3. Do I need the serial line to the PCM?
4. How the fuel enable signal works?
Thanks for any replies.
Vinh
Last edited by LS1Cobra; 08-27-2006 at 11:07 PM.
08-28-2006, 06:51 AM
#2
Hey hows it going?
Ill try to give you a hand...
1. I could be wrong on this one...but I think the ignition retard is part of the Traction Control system if the car you got the motor from had it. I didnt have to do anything with any ignition retard wires from my 99 harness and it was a traction control car....
2. CPP... Clutch Pedal Position??? Another one I could be wrong on...
3. The only serial line that I can think of is the one that comes out and goes to the ALDL connector under the dash. The thingy you plug scanners and tuners into. Cant remember any that are an input INTO the PCM though...
4. Fuel enable signal... This is part of the VATS system. Unless you had VATS completely tuned out of the PCM, you want to leave this wire in. I believe its PIN 30 on teh red connector?? Blue wire? If you dont have VATS programmed out, you need to get a VATS bypass box. That wire on the PCM is looking for a 50Hz signal from the body control module...which I assume you dont have. The bypass box emulates that signal. Check ebay for them. There is a company that sells them often. Bakerelectronics or something like that. Simple three wire hook up. You will need to do this or your motor will start up and shut off... like mine did making me quite unhappy... You can build a VATS box... I built one, got it to work, then ordered a good one from the online place. Theirs is much neater and I trust it more.
Hope this helps ya out some. Although I thought I remembered reading somewhere that you got your car to run??? Good luck!
Justin
Edit... ok now I remember reading your posts... You are having start up shut down problems right?? I remember reading that you were using vette components? Are you switching over to F-body electronics and all that now???
Ill try to give you a hand...
1. I could be wrong on this one...but I think the ignition retard is part of the Traction Control system if the car you got the motor from had it. I didnt have to do anything with any ignition retard wires from my 99 harness and it was a traction control car....
2. CPP... Clutch Pedal Position??? Another one I could be wrong on...
3. The only serial line that I can think of is the one that comes out and goes to the ALDL connector under the dash. The thingy you plug scanners and tuners into. Cant remember any that are an input INTO the PCM though...
4. Fuel enable signal... This is part of the VATS system. Unless you had VATS completely tuned out of the PCM, you want to leave this wire in. I believe its PIN 30 on teh red connector?? Blue wire? If you dont have VATS programmed out, you need to get a VATS bypass box. That wire on the PCM is looking for a 50Hz signal from the body control module...which I assume you dont have. The bypass box emulates that signal. Check ebay for them. There is a company that sells them often. Bakerelectronics or something like that. Simple three wire hook up. You will need to do this or your motor will start up and shut off... like mine did making me quite unhappy... You can build a VATS box... I built one, got it to work, then ordered a good one from the online place. Theirs is much neater and I trust it more.
Hope this helps ya out some. Although I thought I remembered reading somewhere that you got your car to run??? Good luck!
Justin
Edit... ok now I remember reading your posts... You are having start up shut down problems right?? I remember reading that you were using vette components? Are you switching over to F-body electronics and all that now???
Last edited by ghettocruiser; 08-28-2006 at 06:57 AM.
08-28-2006, 09:05 AM
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Hi Justin,
Thanks for the info. That helps a lot. All the wires I asked above are inputs to the PCM that I don't know what they are for. After your explaination it makes more sense now.
I will send in the PCM to disable the VATs so I can cut the fuel enable wire to the PCM. The CPP is what I will hook to the starter relay so that the clutch pedal has to be depressed to be able to start the car. The serial line I will hook to the ODBII port. The ignition retard is for torque management I think so I don't need it. I can cut this wire also.
Edit: Why does the CPP inputs into the PCM? Or maybe it's an output? Anyone??
Yes I am the guy having problem with my 98 C5 PCM. I just bought the 99 and cup C5 PCM for my swap and waiting for it to arrive. At the same time I am doing another LS1 swap for my friend's Z and he is using a Camaro drivetrain. I am doing the wiring for him.
Thanks again for the help.
Vinh
Thanks for the info. That helps a lot. All the wires I asked above are inputs to the PCM that I don't know what they are for. After your explaination it makes more sense now.
I will send in the PCM to disable the VATs so I can cut the fuel enable wire to the PCM. The CPP is what I will hook to the starter relay so that the clutch pedal has to be depressed to be able to start the car. The serial line I will hook to the ODBII port. The ignition retard is for torque management I think so I don't need it. I can cut this wire also.
Edit: Why does the CPP inputs into the PCM? Or maybe it's an output? Anyone??
Yes I am the guy having problem with my 98 C5 PCM. I just bought the 99 and cup C5 PCM for my swap and waiting for it to arrive. At the same time I am doing another LS1 swap for my friend's Z and he is using a Camaro drivetrain. I am doing the wiring for him.
Thanks again for the help.
Vinh
08-28-2006, 09:15 AM
#4
The CPP inputs to the PCM for cruise control. If you hit the clutch, then the cruise is turned off.
The serial line is also what feeds the instrument cluster in the Camaro. I just ran the wire straight to the ALDL connector. It provides no inputs to the PCM.
The serial line is also what feeds the instrument cluster in the Camaro. I just ran the wire straight to the ALDL connector. It provides no inputs to the PCM.
08-28-2006, 10:57 AM
#5
70: Do you need to use the CPP to disable cruise with the clutch though??? I was figuring on wiring in the clutch switch in with the switch on the brake pedal. Wire them in series. So that either pedal you hit will kill cruise..
LS1Cobra: Glad I could help some. Sounds like you have it sorted out fairly well. When you get your car running so it stays running...its the best feeling. When I got my VATS issue resolved, I sat there for a few seconds waiting for the motor to die. When it didnt after like 10 seconds I just about flipped out! Good luck and keep us updated!
Justin
LS1Cobra: Glad I could help some. Sounds like you have it sorted out fairly well. When you get your car running so it stays running...its the best feeling. When I got my VATS issue resolved, I sat there for a few seconds waiting for the motor to die. When it didnt after like 10 seconds I just about flipped out! Good luck and keep us updated!
Justin
08-28-2006, 11:32 AM
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Jeff and Justin,
I just look into the FAQ above and someone mentioned that the CPP is working in conjunction with the reverse lock out circuit. I will have to take a closer look at this circuit before cutting this wire. I don't need the cruise control for this car.
Thanks to the FAQ above I got all the wires sort out now.
One more question: Does the M6 tranny has any kind of neutral safety switch built in? this is to prevent the car from starting in gears. I know most of the car used the switch on the clutch pedal but the safest way is to have a neutral switch in the trans. Thanks again.
Vinh
PS. Yes Justin. I will crack a few heinekens to celebrate if I get the motor stay running. Hopefully this week when the PCM gets here.
I just look into the FAQ above and someone mentioned that the CPP is working in conjunction with the reverse lock out circuit. I will have to take a closer look at this circuit before cutting this wire. I don't need the cruise control for this car.
Thanks to the FAQ above I got all the wires sort out now.
One more question: Does the M6 tranny has any kind of neutral safety switch built in? this is to prevent the car from starting in gears. I know most of the car used the switch on the clutch pedal but the safest way is to have a neutral switch in the trans. Thanks again.
Vinh
PS. Yes Justin. I will crack a few heinekens to celebrate if I get the motor stay running. Hopefully this week when the PCM gets here.
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08-28-2006, 01:29 PM
#8
I think the CPP is also part of the starter circuit (actually it might not have anything to do with cruise) I don't use the PCM to control the starter circuit so I didn't need it.
I don't think it has anything to do with reverse lockout. I have nothing connected to this wire and my reverse lockout works correctly. I'm pretty sure reverse lockout is based off the VSS.
I don't think it has anything to do with reverse lockout. I have nothing connected to this wire and my reverse lockout works correctly. I'm pretty sure reverse lockout is based off the VSS.
Last edited by 70 LS1; 08-28-2006 at 01:35 PM.
08-28-2006, 02:17 PM
#9
Yeah I think reverse lock out works with VSS...
The car that I used as my doner used to be an auto... the previous owner had a shop swap in a 6 speed... When they did, they used a button on a b&m t-handle shifter to activate the lockout solenoid.
Im using a Hurst classic shifter **** with a button on it. I plan to wire that to the solenoid. It will double as my line lock activate button as well... I figure its much easier that way. Just run the power off something in the console like one of the power wires for the lighter socket.
Like 70... Im not using the PCM to control my starter. Im using my stock ignition switch wiring. Seems to work fine so far. When I was re-working the stock 99 LS1 fuse blocks, I saw the starter relay and after tracing the wires I decided it was pointless for my application.
Justin
The car that I used as my doner used to be an auto... the previous owner had a shop swap in a 6 speed... When they did, they used a button on a b&m t-handle shifter to activate the lockout solenoid.
Im using a Hurst classic shifter **** with a button on it. I plan to wire that to the solenoid. It will double as my line lock activate button as well... I figure its much easier that way. Just run the power off something in the console like one of the power wires for the lighter socket.
Like 70... Im not using the PCM to control my starter. Im using my stock ignition switch wiring. Seems to work fine so far. When I was re-working the stock 99 LS1 fuse blocks, I saw the starter relay and after tracing the wires I decided it was pointless for my application.
Justin
08-28-2006, 05:27 PM
#11
That diagram doesn't even show the clutch position as a PCM input, just BCM.
LS1Cobra: What pin on the PCM are you talking about with the CPP?
EDIT: Just searched around on the forum and found a good auto to manual thread that says the CPP input to the PCM is for cruise. So to answer your original question, you don't need to hook it up.
LS1Cobra: What pin on the PCM are you talking about with the CPP?
EDIT: Just searched around on the forum and found a good auto to manual thread that says the CPP input to the PCM is for cruise. So to answer your original question, you don't need to hook it up.
Last edited by 70 LS1; 08-28-2006 at 05:38 PM.
08-28-2006, 09:40 PM
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Jeff and Justin,
Thanks for the good info. I read the manuals too and found the CPP goes to the PCM is for the cruise. I also know that the CPP is used to trigger the starter relay. Now it makes sense. I don't need the CPP wire to the PCM but I do need to hook it to the negative side of the coil for the starter relay.
The CPP is a GRY wire to pin BLU 32 at the PCM.
I have one more question: There is another sensor on the side of the trans that I can't find info for. They are a little heavier wire. Their colors are LT GRN and GRY. The FAQ didn't mention anything about the 2 connectors ( 1 white and 1 blue ) with 10 wires wires each that carry all the sensors info into the car. The 2 wires in question running in the same connector as the CPP, VSS and Oil pressure sensors. This is the white connector. Thanks
Vinh
It surprise the hell out of me that an expensive transmission like the M6 but it doesn't have the neutral switch. My 1983 280ZXT BW T5 even had a neutral safety switch. That's 1983 technology guys. What do you say about the guys who designed the M6 huh?
Thanks for the good info. I read the manuals too and found the CPP goes to the PCM is for the cruise. I also know that the CPP is used to trigger the starter relay. Now it makes sense. I don't need the CPP wire to the PCM but I do need to hook it to the negative side of the coil for the starter relay.
The CPP is a GRY wire to pin BLU 32 at the PCM.
I have one more question: There is another sensor on the side of the trans that I can't find info for. They are a little heavier wire. Their colors are LT GRN and GRY. The FAQ didn't mention anything about the 2 connectors ( 1 white and 1 blue ) with 10 wires wires each that carry all the sensors info into the car. The 2 wires in question running in the same connector as the CPP, VSS and Oil pressure sensors. This is the white connector. Thanks
Vinh
It surprise the hell out of me that an expensive transmission like the M6 but it doesn't have the neutral switch. My 1983 280ZXT BW T5 even had a neutral safety switch. That's 1983 technology guys. What do you say about the guys who designed the M6 huh?
08-29-2006, 06:34 AM
#15
Vinh,
Here is a pic of the T56 and its connectors labeled. The only one not shown is on the passenger side of the trans, and is for the reverse lights.
The white/blue plugs are called the 220 and the 230 connectors.
This should help ya out a bit...
http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/wiring.htm
I havent connected any of the wires from the white connector yet. The only one I plan to use is the VSS output to my speedo...atleast I think the speedo will accept this signal. i have to double check.
The blue connector has a lot of wires for the EVAP system, and A/C request, the check engine light wire, as well as the wire that goes to teh ALDL under the dash. So its a fairly useful plug.
70: Yeah I was lookin at the switches last night. the one that gets pushed in when you depress the pedal is the one that enables the starter, then I guess the one that looks more like the regular brake switch type of thing is for the cruise. Its kind of funny.....my 87 was an auto, so i thought I was going to have to run wires from the NSS to the pedals for the clutch start thingy... But behind my kick panel there was another set of these wires, and the plug from my 87 wiring was perfect for the switch on the 99 pedal set. Viola...wont start without the clutch in. I love it when things work out like that. haha.
Justin
Here is a pic of the T56 and its connectors labeled. The only one not shown is on the passenger side of the trans, and is for the reverse lights.
The white/blue plugs are called the 220 and the 230 connectors.
This should help ya out a bit...
http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/wiring.htm
I havent connected any of the wires from the white connector yet. The only one I plan to use is the VSS output to my speedo...atleast I think the speedo will accept this signal. i have to double check.
The blue connector has a lot of wires for the EVAP system, and A/C request, the check engine light wire, as well as the wire that goes to teh ALDL under the dash. So its a fairly useful plug.
70: Yeah I was lookin at the switches last night. the one that gets pushed in when you depress the pedal is the one that enables the starter, then I guess the one that looks more like the regular brake switch type of thing is for the cruise. Its kind of funny.....my 87 was an auto, so i thought I was going to have to run wires from the NSS to the pedals for the clutch start thingy... But behind my kick panel there was another set of these wires, and the plug from my 87 wiring was perfect for the switch on the 99 pedal set. Viola...wont start without the clutch in. I love it when things work out like that. haha.
Justin
