Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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my s14 ls1/t56

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Old 11-10-2006, 09:56 PM
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stock with LT's, 3" exhaust to y-pipe to 3.5" exhaust, bullet style muffler (like the importers use), intake (as seen in the pics), and yes, the tune. no cams, no nothing, not even a clutch. all stock.
Old 11-12-2006, 06:40 PM
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very nice numbers . i'll hopefully have some numbers by friday on the new engine.
Old 11-12-2006, 09:40 PM
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it feels good to know its tuned now. i drove it alittle today and she spins abit in 4th now. still just pulls real hard. im going to have to learn how to lauch it. i tryed a 2nd gear launch today with very little pedal and i had alittle spin and some wheel hop so ill just have to find what works. new rims and tires will help alot im sure. about 5 miles after leaving the dyno the check enigne light came on but he said it might and just to bring it back and get it wiped off. right after unhooking it from the dyno it did it there too and had to wipe some other code. most the codes had to do with the gas tank pressure and was nothing. gl with the new motor.
Old 11-13-2006, 12:06 AM
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though it would be lighter than 2900bl, do you think that 2700 is acheivble?with carbon fiber hood and trunk doors and aluminum DS.
Old 11-13-2006, 12:38 AM
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stock weight the best i recall is 2880 on the s14. the s13 info i have seen changes alot. any where from 100 lbs lighter to 300 lbs. but i think the s13 is more front heavy. the less weight comes from the rear i think.


as far as 2700 lbs. maybe, everything is still in the car except for heater and a/c stuff. jake, spare tire and everthing else is still there so i would think 2700 would be eazy to get to. right now if i remove any weight ill try to take it off the front. carbon fiber hood, fenders, door panels. but time will tell. then i want to change out the side windows for something lighter. then maybe move to the trunk. i will try to keep it from getting front heavy cause most of the time alot of the eazy stuff to remove is in the rear. if i even do any lighting on the car.

i read some where that said just removing the tar like sound proofing in the floor was 80 lbs. dunno if its true. kinda hard to believe
Old 11-13-2006, 10:05 AM
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I took all of the tar out from the interior of my 98 S14. What a paine in the ***. And I had a pneumatic scraper and 40lbs of dry ice. Followed by a lot of lost brain cells thanks to solvent. No way it was 80lbs worth. I'm building a 8pt cage, and I doubt that I'll even be back to stock with the sound deadening and rear seats gone.

Here's a bunch of rambling on my research into weight reduction. The stock seats, battery, and hood are the best place to start.

Weight Reduction-

Carpet padding and tar- 30
Interior plastic and headliner 10
Body Panels
Hood 30
Trunk 10
Battery- 25
Wheels 6lb x4 24
Spare tire and jack 30
Seats- 50
Bumpers- 80
Body Holes + 10
399

240 specific weight reductions:
Listed below are some easily removable items:
1. Passenger Seat (37lbs) - Removing the passenger seat is a very easy and effective way to give your 240SX a small gain in power. The nice thing is that the seat is only held in place by 4 bolts.

2. Rear Seat (29lbs) - The rear seat is a little more complicated to remove than the passenger seat. When removing just remember where everything goes and it should be easy to put back in place whenever needed.

3. Rear Seat Cushion (10lbs) - The rear cushion should be removed at the same time as the rear seat.

4. Floor Mats/Front and Rear (6lbs) - This has to be the easiest weight reduction available for the 240SX owner.

5. Tire Floor Cover (3lbs) - The tire floor cover is right underneath the rear hatch carpeting.

6. Spare Tire and Jack (32lbs) - Another easily removable item.
Total 117 lbs

Hood is 50lbs! and each wheel is 22!

S14 2742 start! Hinson w/ no exhaust
S14 2832 stock

Weight Modifications:
40 front seats: nex +10 for mounts (37-17)*2=
39 rear cushions and seats
00 steel hood 50-15lb carbon w/ frp back (pure CF is 8, pure FRP is 21)
20 Tire hinson had battery and I’m guessin no jack
25 battery
00 My wheels are as heavy as the 22 lb stock wheels
15 interior trim
00 300zx Al spindles doubt it
03 trunk cover
03 rear floor mats
=-224 + 80 for cage + 50 for exhaust= 94

2742-94= 2648 lbs Oh Ya!!!
Old 11-14-2006, 06:03 AM
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nice man that weight isnt bad, get some superlightweight wheels and a cf/fg hood and you will be golden.

good to hear its up and rippin on that new motor! more pics!!!
Old 11-14-2006, 05:17 PM
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i going to try to go to the track this friday (1/8 mile track). ill video it and some of it on the street but it will take me a week or so just to get it on the web. no high speed internet here so a friend will have to do it for me.
Old 11-15-2006, 05:14 PM
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i need alittle help. can any one tell me on the dash cluster what is the tach wire and speedo wire. and will this work for making both work? im going to wire both of em straight in with no convert and the guy that tuned it said he could maybe tune the rpms and the speedo as long as he just has to change the pulses. is that all the converter does or does it change the wave of the signal? just need to know what wires for the stock (mine is a 95) tach/speedo that feed to them and will this work? thx..
Old 11-15-2006, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fouz65
i need alittle help. can any one tell me on the dash cluster what is the tach wire and speedo wire. and will this work for making both work? im going to wire both of em straight in with no convert and the guy that tuned it said he could maybe tune the rpms and the speedo as long as he just has to change the pulses. is that all the converter does or does it change the wave of the signal? just need to know what wires for the stock (mine is a 95) tach/speedo that feed to them and will this work? thx..
These are from a post on Fresh Alloy, URL: http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthr...84#post1352584
Here it is:

*
>24-yellow/green, VSS signal
>26-yellow/red, tachometer

Out of the complete list, I think these are the two you are interested in. Ken.
Old 11-17-2006, 10:38 PM
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just got back from the track. didnt take any video. i need a tach and some tires (run was on stock tires). hitting 2nd the car got fishy and same in 3rd (i think i scared the truck beside me and he let off). had to let off both times. im almost sure it will hit low 7's with tires and a tach. i know im shifting early.
reaction .7261
60ft 1.9939
330ft 5.9279
594ft 7.6847
1/8 8.1939
mph 88.37
Old 11-22-2006, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
Looks good, your master setup is IDENTICAL to mine
What is the reason behind having to use a new master cylinder as opposed to trying to make the stock one work?

Also, Hinson uses Corvette engine brackets for their swap, but I don't see how. Any pics?
Old 11-22-2006, 12:27 PM
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the stock one doesnt have the force to push the require line pressure. thats the only way i can think to say it.

Hinson doesnt show pics of any of their products. which really does them no good since 99% of us wont buy **** we cant see.
Old 11-22-2006, 02:18 PM
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using a different MC with a larger bore allows you to puch more fluid in the same distance of pedal travel... the LS1 hydraulic throwout bearing needs this larger amount of fluid moved in comparison to the stock 240sx / rx7 clutch setup.
Old 11-23-2006, 12:38 AM
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That's what I figured, but just wanted to hear someone say it before I got everything together and found out the hard way.

So, what master cylinder is everyone using and is there no easier option? It seems like the consensus is that it's a huge pain in the ***....which is exactly what I'm trying to avoid in this swap (as much as possible at least).
Old 11-23-2006, 08:10 AM
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I keep hearing bad things about the McLeod Adjustable MC. There's a million posts on it here if you do a search. The other option seems to be the stock one. Hinson sells a "modification required" stock MC, but at least it comes with the right lines all ready to go, and the price is right. That's the way I'm goin. Oh... GM upgraded the MC on the later Camaros, but I'm sure the hinson unit is the upgraded one.
Old 11-23-2006, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cnichols
What is the reason behind having to use a new master cylinder as opposed to trying to make the stock one work?

Also, Hinson uses Corvette engine brackets for their swap, but I don't see how. Any pics?
i dont have pics but ill describe it best i can.they use spacers to lower the subframe, then they make you bolt on these triangle shaped things, then you use the c5 mount. ill give it credit and say it works, thats about all i have positive to say about it.
Old 11-23-2006, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
I keep hearing bad things about the McLeod Adjustable MC. There's a million posts on it here if you do a search. The other option seems to be the stock one. Hinson sells a "modification required" stock MC, but at least it comes with the right lines all ready to go, and the price is right. That's the way I'm goin. Oh... GM upgraded the MC on the later Camaros, but I'm sure the hinson unit is the upgraded one.
i dont see how you can modify the stock camaro one since IIRC its plastic
Old 11-28-2006, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by datboibrad
the stock one doesnt have the force to push the require line pressure. thats the only way i can think to say it.

Hinson doesnt show pics of any of their products. which really does them no good since 99% of us wont buy **** we cant see.
From what I can tell, Hinson is trying to attain a patent for their mount, so pictures of how it is installed would be a big no no!
Old 01-12-2007, 11:33 AM
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i seen some of my pics were gone and i have had a few ppl ask me about my mounts so i thought i would put them up again.

here is the cut (the same as alot others) on the k-member. i cut just along the welds of the sterring rack mounts. and left about a 1/2" on the top and cut off about a 1/2" on the bottom. i used some 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" angle iron and it fit perfect. i had to beat the top down about a 1/8" to met the angle and then i welded the top and bottom. then weld in some metal on the side to fill in the holes.

here is my driver side enigne mount. you can see the stock camaro mount packed with gray chalk (it matches the alum block really nice). i did this to make them stiff and after driving it for a few months i have had zero problems . then you can see the U shaped bracket we made. if i remember right its about 5"X5"X2". the metal used to make them was 1/2" thick. and to line them up to the cross member i put the mounts with the new U brackets on the engine. we droped the motor in the car (with the tranny) and sit the U brackets on the cross member and then tacked the extension on the cross member (this makes the cross member wider like the skyline cross member). every thing was then marked (where to drill the holes in the extensions). we pulled out the motor and used some left over angle to brace up the extensions and fully weld them up. then drilled the holes in the extensoins. then simply droped it back in and bolted up with two 1 1/2"X1/2" grade 8 bolts. yes they are close together but it helps really. just put a flat head screw driver between them and tighten the top. we also had to grind alittle off the sterring shaft U-joint for the HSC headers.

tranny mount was easy. but not the best looking thing. hopfully the pics explians it.




a few more pics since im here.





341hp/352tq. intake,headers,exhaust. everything else is stock. i know it aint no show car. but that aint what i wanted to build. if i wreck it ill just buy a roller and swap this over since everything is already made.

btw: i by no means am saying my way is the best/easiest but its how we did it. i have seen some of the other people on here and theirs may be better for you and easier. but i hope you atleast get a few good ideas by useing it. but for a ls1 in a 240 you have come to the best site. i couldn't have done mine without it and everyone on here are great people especially compared to the people you come across on some of the 240 sites.


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