I haven't found anyone that has actually done this, but I've been wanting to perform this job for about the past 3yrs. now. I finally have the boat I'd like to try it out in. Does anyone have any knowledge on this? From what I know, the ls-1 uses a traditional standard flow cooling system as compared to the lt-1 which will make it easier, and the engine is internally balanced therefore I will need a 0 balanced flywheel. I plan to put the seawater pickup pump in place of the a/c compressor to keep it a serpentine belt setup. I plan to set the rev limiter at 5k-5500 rpm due to the engine being at wot for extended periods of time, custom cam, valve springs, pushrods, possibly the exhaust valves. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

Do a search in this section. This idea already has had a couple threads started on this subject. The newer MerCruiser engine packages come with closed cooling as standard equipment for a reason. Not as much for the control of corrosion & electrolysis, but to control the engines water coolant temperature, which the computer could'nt handle properly if you just had raw water coolant coming in from the river/ocean. But, also, I would not run an all aluminum LS1 engine in a saltwater envirement with raw water cooling. It would ruin it, even if you flushed it religously after every use. I would recommend you buy/install a heat-exchanger/closed cooling system. MerCruiser & other engine marinizers have the flywheels & drive couplers & bellhousings that you would need if this is a sterndrive installation. These bellhousings also locate the starter to a top mount location, which you want. Hope this helps. Gar

 

Thanks. I have a bravo coupling, bellhousing. It keeps the starter in the factory location. Most of your bellhousing the loc. the starter to the top are the one's the use transmissions such as surface drives and trs drives require. I would like to use a stand alone harness w/the factory computer retuned. Closed cooling systems are avail. I could prob. use the system off of a off a Merc. Horizon engine w/some modding since all the horizon series are closed cooling. Thanks for the input.

 

Its been done for years in production boats.

-Matt

 

Yes, But not with a true, all aluminum, 5.7 LS1... Gar

 

Shouldn't be a big deal with a closed loop cooling system though.

 

I heard that the reason why for not having the aluminum block is it limits you to fresh water lakes only. No salt water.

-Matt

 

With Closed loop cooling, alum blocks would be fine.

However, if you look at the way a boat engine is operated, the iron block is a better choice. The iron block is a stronger and more rigid piece, which means it has better long term durability when subjected to the hours of high power output (150+ hp load @ 4000rpm versus a car application where it spends most of its life at 2000 rpm and under 25hp load).

Also, boats tend to be less weight conscious. If they were, there wouldn't be things like "Fat Sacks" and ballast tanks in wakeboard boats (those guys are intentionally adding 2000+ lbs of weight to the boat to make the wake bigger, whats another 70lbs for an engine block?)

'JustDreamin'

 

I run 540 c.i. big blocks in my Donzi, but I've thought about building a jet boat (had one many years ago with a 468 Chevy),or surface drive using an LS engine. What hull are you going to be using?

 

I`ll second that, cars can coast along on the highway, boats never get that chance. I`ll take an iron block in a boat anyday.

That depends heavily on what type of boat it is. Production family boats don`t care much and neither do their owners. The wakeboard boats add hundreds of pounds of ballast to get bigger wakes/air. But don`t tell the highperformance boaters that boats aren`t that weight conscious They have hulls that are so thin on the top that the front deck would crack if you walked on it, you can push on it and flex it. Some of the drag boat hulls weigh 300-400 pounds as a bare hull for a 18 foot boat . Even in the highperformance 30 foot + cats builders have started using carbon fiber instead of fiberglass for some layers so that they can shave 800 pounds off the hull.

 

Jets are fun!! If your trying to make power with them though cubic inches are very important, because they require lots of power......at high RPM.


EDIT:heres a power chart for the berkeley pumps. You can cut down the impeller size to compensate, but the smaller impellers are less efficient.

 

Pricing water jacketed headers is the key. Almost everything else is easily attainable or fabricated. Most of the places I have found won't sell their designs(Indmar) or are really expensive. The cheapest solution I have found so far is Wasp in New Zealand. They are $1500 without shipping. If someone finds something cheaper, let the board know.

Matt

 

You could also probably make adapters to use ford(don`t remember which motor sb mabey?) or BBC water jacketed exhaust. Make an adapter out of half inch aluminum to get them to bolt on. I know that the ford and BBC exhaust tube placement is close, people have reworked headers, but I never measured to see exactly how close the port spacing is to a BBC or ford.

 

I am sure it would be great in a boat. I believe Malibu has LS1's as an option on some of their Wake boarding boats. I would love to build one with a Kenne Bell, perfect torque monster for the water.

 

The engine will be going in a 05' 20' Baja Outlaw. Def. not a ski boat. It will be for speed, so the weight savings is good, BUT I plan to go back w/bravo transom/drive due to the fact I'll be going from 260hp to 400+hp after some mods which the bravo setup will add more weight as compared the to the alpha transom/drive it came with, but the added strength is really needed. I'm also looking at a 496 h.o. rated at 420hp. Def. bigger/heavier, but the price is looking good for what I get. A closed cooling system can be bought. I'm bascially doing a cost/benefit analysis on going w/the ls-1 compared to the 496 h.o. I'm also looking at. The 496 should have the torque advantage no problem which is really good in a boat, but it is a lighter/smaller boat too. Thanks for all the input guys.

 

Big block bore spacing is way off. You can definitely make an adapter for the SB Ford. I was thinking about cutting the flanges of a SB Ford manifold, but all the center risers I can find are cast iron. Too difficult for me to weld. I might use the logs that were on my Donzi to start with. Upgrade if the prices ever come down on the Gen III boat stuff.

 

I'm very familiar with the Berkley's, in the mid 80's I had a 19' Sleekcraft with a Berkley. It had a 468 that dynoed at 598 h.p. It would turn a AA impeller 6500 rpm. The pump was align bored and I ran a .010 under wear ring which was stainless like the impeller. Mr. Marine in Memphis did a bunch of the pump work and set up the droop snoot for best performance. I painted the wetted areas of the hull with Teflon as well as the pump. It was faster than any prop boat in the area with similar power. Everybody told what pigs jet boats were, so I decided to prove them wrong. Honestly though, I could have built a faster surface drive or even an ib/ob for less money, but it was fun!

 

Matt, why not run dry headers with mufflers and just use a heat exchanger to cool the sealed system?

 

true, my uncle has a malibu tow boat with an LS1 in it and im pretty sure its an aluminum block but now you guys got me 2nd guessing myself, its ben awhile..
the malibu actually has a tow mast you mount up in the middle infront of the engine and strap to the nose which helps with the wake and if you need more there is a wedge you can lower on the stern that really makes some wake, we go boarding on a surfboard right behind the boat with no rope =)

 

I can't use a dry system inside a closed hatch Donzi. I am going to use a heat exchanger system, but no kit will really fit it like OEM because they don't exist yet. Trying to find something that will work on Ebay.