Ted J

iTrader: (4)

You don't by chance have a welded diff do you?

Kamin

couple pieces of advice

1) 8/6 is too soft for a s chassis

2) whats your alignment look like? alignment makes a HUGE HUGE HUGE difference in the s chassis cars.

3) what size tire do you run?

i thankfully didnt need to make too many changes to my car apart from some small rear alignment tweaks to make it handle perfect for everything.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Kamin that's a pretty bold/unconventional bit of advice.

Do you believe that to be true for road racing?

What ill behaviors did you have at those rates (excessive dive or roll and with what anti-roll bars)?

Thanx for your real-world input!

-=DRU=-

mondojackal

Yes. That's pretty much exactly what I said in the following sentence.

No. Stock open diff for now. If I had a welded, it would slide out a lot easier. I've got a 180SX LSD waiting to go in, but I've yet to get it installed into a differential housing.

Yeah, I've got the spring rates I want for the car, thanks. Also, as previously mentioned, I'm running them preloaded front and rear.

The alignment needs some work, but it's streetable and is set up for decent tire wear characteristics.

Are you talking to me about my spring rates?


To the OP, sorry about the

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I was talkin to Kamin about his suggestion to you. But I know that he's a drifter, so perhaps that's what he's suggesting the > 8/6 for

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Nope, no preload; I make sure my springs are situated firmly, just enough where the spring isn't able to wobble on the perch and I can spin the spring with my hand. I'm not sure what the exact effects will be if you preload the springs, but essentially it'll come into effect during dynamic transition. I'd be weary though, if your shocks aren't double adjustable (compression and rebound), it might cause you more harm than good because your compression and rebound dampening rates will need to be tuned according to the preload... but i'm no expert.

On my car no... it could be a few things that might be effecting your chassis response... maybe your car is too low, maybe your tire pressure is too low, maybe you need to run a stiffer anti-sway bar to compensate for the roll, you can add more toe, add more camber, run a softer spring up front, up the spring rate in the rear, etc etc. I'd start with the easiest things and play with tire pressure, camber, and toe.

Ultimately, it could also be the way you drive. It's really misleading to say a car is prone to oversteer or understeer, but any car can be driven to understeer or oversteer through a corner.

I don't mind the discussion tangents, it's more helpful than anything so it's good

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

I think 8k and 6k are pretty damn stiff. I think the reason why JDM suspension is so damn stiff for our cars is because of the decreased roll height and the decrease in roll center. When you decrease the ride height so much the car tends to roll MORE, so combat it 8k and 6k rates are used. The reason I'd go stiffer is if the car is slammed to a point where it scraps, but that's just bypassing the real problem - s chassis cars weren't designed to be race cars out of the box saddly. Rule is, if the car is slammed the car will handle like crap. If you search "roll center" on the net you can find a lot of info on this subject and how it effects a car's corner handling.

I used to run 8kg/6kg and then 11kg / 9kg using Apexi N1 pro dampers. I hated it. It was overly stiff. Sure there was very little body roll, but the chassis felt like it was on the edge all the time. Very twitchy at all speeds and definitely not a confidence inspiring car. I wouldn't recommend it for daily driving or tracking... maybe drifting???

Also, get that open diff out of there!!! A lot of power is wasted with that thing!

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

A lot of the Japanese drifters are in the 6K and 7K in the back and 7K and 8K range for the front, at least a few years ago they were, for the S chassis. As of late though they are going towards softer springs to gain some traction for the tracks they were going to the entry speeds were higher (like 100 to 110 MPH entries) and they needed more traction so they soften up the springs, they stiffened up their sway bars in the back and I think also added a little compression to the shocks to make up for it. That's what I was hearing about earlier in the year when talking to somebody who's got people he knows that work with some Japanese drifting teams.

Speaking of suspension settings, what are you guys running for camber, caster, and toe on these cars?

ranger2339

iTrader: (1)

I run a 8/6 spring set up and no rear sway in my S13, I will have to see how I like it this summer though. This is for a drift car also.


Josh

mondojackal

Interesting topics for conversation, guys. As long as the OP is fine with it, I like this. If not, someone should start a new thread.

As mentioned, my car is stupid low, so I'm sure that negatively affects the handling, but I've got a pretty weak set of wheels on the car, and it would look pretty bland if I raised it up much higher than it currently is.

What suspension settings are you guys running? (camber, toe, and caster-wise)