Story of our LS1 swap into 67 Camaro
#142
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Well, after talking with Inline tube, they said grind it. After grinding, we decided there wasn't enough metal left to make us feel comfortable leaving the bracket ears on, so we cut them off. We have pictures sent off to Inline so they can decide if it matters or not. Either way, we have the car back on the ground, brakes bled, and everything feels good. We really hope they come back and say that it doesn't matter, because there is no way the rims are fitting with those ears on the brackets. The brake bleeder pressure pump thing is horrible to setup, but absolutely worth it once it is set up. We ran two big bottles of new fluid through all the new lines to really clean them out, and it took less than 10 minutes. Great tool, just wish the bloody thing would seal to the master cylinder better. Took care of the rubbing on the dust sheild. 10 minute fix, needs to be nice and round.
Finally back on the ground...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943087.jpg)
Another angle...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943088.jpg)
Brake system is finally all done.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943089.jpg)
This is where we cut the ears, there are two per wheel...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943090.jpg)
Drivers side...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943091.jpg)
Just about ready for the motor!
Finally back on the ground...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943087.jpg)
Another angle...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943088.jpg)
Brake system is finally all done.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943089.jpg)
This is where we cut the ears, there are two per wheel...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943090.jpg)
Drivers side...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943091.jpg)
Just about ready for the motor!
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943092.jpg)
#143
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Here's a great pic of an alternative way to clamp down the Motive Power lid: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showpo...2&postcount=14
I need to get some bar stock for next time...
I need to get some bar stock for next time...
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That is a great idea. WIll do next time, those chains are a pain! We need to get the accelerator pedal and cable in, get the flywheel, clutch slave installed, and we are ready to put the eninge and trans in for the last time (until paint and body). Then we can get the measurements for the driveshaft, start working out the console fit, and begin wiring. Oh, and get the radiator all setup. Once all the wiring is done, we will rebuild the headlights, get the wiper system updated, and should be ready to apply batt power and start leak testing. Once all the leaks are found, I say we fire it up and see what happens. Shouldn't be but a couple more weeks....
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No pictures tonight. Hooked up the 6 cyl pedal and the Lokar throttle cable. Found and fixed a brake leak. Finalized a location behind the fender for the Cable-X. Going to remove the LED and Dip Switch from the Cable-X box and remote them to the firewall to make programming changes easier. It won't be easy to access behind the fender, and we know there is a good chance we will be changing the gearing in the rear. Cleaned the radiator and fans, and flushed the core real good. Decided that we will just drink beer and goof off the rest of the evening.
Oh, almost forgot to mention that the custom shift boot came in today and looks great. Also heard from my machinist, and my plates were on the 3 axis this morning. We finalized a few drill dimensions, and they should have been shipped this evening. DTE is a great shop, and has been doing our machining at work for years. Thanks Dale.
Oh, almost forgot to mention that the custom shift boot came in today and looks great. Also heard from my machinist, and my plates were on the 3 axis this morning. We finalized a few drill dimensions, and they should have been shipped this evening. DTE is a great shop, and has been doing our machining at work for years. Thanks Dale.
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Bloody pilot bearing is a nightmare!!!!! Broke the special bearing puller, and wound up grinding the damn thing out. Took forever.... That was a real pain in the ***, definately the hardest thing so far.
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Busy day today. Finished the install of the radiator to the core. Used rubber shock mount bushings as isolators. Added a few grade 8 bolts as safety catches so the rad cannot ever fall out. Looks nice when held in place on the car. We fought with the damn pilot bearing, but finally got it ground out. Got the LS2 Flywheel on, and the LS7 clutch assembly. Mated the trans on the engine hoist. Cannot even imagine doing that in the car. Engine is finally back in, and there is a bit of painting to do, but we are happy to have it in for the last time (we hope). Suspension settled a bit, and we will get fluid into the engine tomorrow to add a few more pounds. Need to measure for the driveshaft and get that made. Love the Lokar cable, it routs nicely. To save frustration, we bled the new slave and master while the trans and engine were hanging in the engine bay. Ran a whole bottle through it to clean everything out. Clutch has a VERY light feel. Really hope it is working, but without a driveshaft, we are not sure if it is or not. It sure pushed a lot of fluid through. Guess we will find out... Spent half the day looking for an inch pound torque wrench, and finally found one at Sears. Slave cylinder at 71 in/lb is only 5.8 ft/lbs and we couldn't do that on any of the wrenches we had. Still a bit of work to do, but we are starting to see some progress now.
Installing the rad bracket.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943380.jpg)
Funny shadow with rad mocked up.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943381.jpg)
From engine bay.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943382.jpg)
Ls2 FLywheel with LS7 Clutch
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943386.jpg)
It is finally back in...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943383.jpg)
From pass side.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943384.jpg)
From dirver side.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943387.jpg)
Suspension starting to show use.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943385.jpg)
Firewall clearance.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943388.jpg)
Shot from above.
Installing the rad bracket.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943380.jpg)
Funny shadow with rad mocked up.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943381.jpg)
From engine bay.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943382.jpg)
Ls2 FLywheel with LS7 Clutch
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943386.jpg)
It is finally back in...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943383.jpg)
From pass side.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943384.jpg)
From dirver side.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943387.jpg)
Suspension starting to show use.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943385.jpg)
Firewall clearance.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943388.jpg)
Shot from above.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943389.jpg)
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The LS7 clutch is really light--a lot lighter than the stock cable clutch in my '00 Mustang GT (partially due to the cable binding in the Mustang). The preferred method for bleeding the LSX clutch is putting a vacuum pump on the reservoir. There's a GM TSB on it--it's probably in the manual trans forum on here. When I put my trans back in, I let mine gravity bleed out the slave bleeder for 15min, then put a big rubber stopper over the reservoir with a metal tube pressed through it, attached a Mity-Vac, and left it sitting at 10in-hg for about 30 minutes.
I originally thought I had a clutch bleeding problem when I first drove the car (before replacing the trans). It turned out the clutch hydraulics were fine, and all of the 1-2 slider keys had fallen out making the syncros completely non-functional.
I originally thought I had a clutch bleeding problem when I first drove the car (before replacing the trans). It turned out the clutch hydraulics were fine, and all of the 1-2 slider keys had fallen out making the syncros completely non-functional.
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Rodder, we will have to try that later.
Here are a few pics of what we have done so far today. Just getting things back on and in. The headers are torqued, and most of the harness is placed. Got a long way to go on the wiring yet. There is plenty of clearance around the exhaust for everything so far, and we will try out some plug wires after supper. Just wanted to get these up while dinner is cooking...
Laying the harness in.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943532.jpg)
Accesories mounted.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943539.jpg)
Booster clearance with the 9 inch.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943540.jpg)
Driver header in.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943541.jpg)
From below.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943542.jpg)
Pass header in...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943543.jpg)
From below...
Here are a few pics of what we have done so far today. Just getting things back on and in. The headers are torqued, and most of the harness is placed. Got a long way to go on the wiring yet. There is plenty of clearance around the exhaust for everything so far, and we will try out some plug wires after supper. Just wanted to get these up while dinner is cooking...
Laying the harness in.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943532.jpg)
Accesories mounted.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943539.jpg)
Booster clearance with the 9 inch.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943540.jpg)
Driver header in.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943541.jpg)
From below.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943542.jpg)
Pass header in...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943543.jpg)
From below...
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943544.jpg)
#153
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Did a bit more cleanup. Built the power steering lines and got them on. We are totally expecting a few leaks. I wanted to use the same hose for the return line, but it doesn't fit the hose barb on the pump very well. We think we have it on, but are prepared to be cleaning up a big mess when we crank it over... Working out the harness, figure we will be messing with wires for the next several weeks. Cleaned up the garage again, only missing one socket that we know of. Trying to figure out how we are going to adapt the temp sneder for a 67, the thing is HUGE! Already know how we want to hook up the siphon tube for the oil pressure, that one is easy enough. Finished the Lokar throttle cable install, pretty happy with that. Had to modify the dip stick tube mounting bracket to clear the headers, and also get a small head metric bolt for it. Test fit the stock wiper motor, it is a no go, we will have to go with a more modern wiper motor. We put the Crane Wires on, they hit three of the tubes. The problem is that they are all straight boots on the plug end. If anyone knows of a set with angled boots, please let us know. Length isn't an issue, just the plug boot. I will get pictures of that up later. Thought we would be sending these back when we ordered them. Other than that, we are pretty happy with our progress so far. Things are about to slow up for the next week, so we are trying to get as much out of the way as we can. It is finally starting to come together, it feels like it has been forever.
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Originally Posted by Indyjc
Nice work and thanks for posting all the pics. This is my first swap and the pics really help me see alot of things I really didn't understand. Thanks again
#155
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67rsss I see you are using the stock radiator is there a hole for a low coolant sensor below the steam tube? I bought a used ls1 v8 rad. and it has no hole for the sensor. I ordered a new rad. and it came with a sensor hole plus a tube on the lower drivers side. I'm wondering if my used rad. is maybe for a v6. The ones I search for from Rockauto show a hole for the sensor. Kinda stumped. Thanks
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Driveshaft was done today, and we now know the clutch is only partially disengaging. I am goin g to have to adjust the master position a little. We will get it, how hard can it be? (Sarcasm). Our harness does not have a sensor for the low coolant gauge, and the radiator has no provision for one. This radiator is out of an 02 WS6, so it was not the V6 radiator.
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Clutch adjusted, adding that turnbuckle was a good idea. Just found out that the fancy, expensive McLeod shifter relocate does not allow the trans to fully engage the forward gears. Will have to call on that.