FadedFD

iTrader: (5)

Great progress.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

The ASA dry sump system forces me to go with the F body acc mounts, which I had been hoping to avoid just for the extra .750" worth of clearance to the radiator fan. Such is...

I already have the shorter (by .750") LS7 water pump sitting around. I had thought about asking wegner motorsports to make me a .375" thick water pump spacer. I only need a .375" thick spacer because the motor plate that sits between the block and water pump is already .375" thick. Instead I think I'm just going to use a pulley puller to slide the water pump pulley that .375" and then make my own spacer to bring up the belt tensioner that mounts to the waterpump out of the scrap that I have left over from the motor plate aluminum after cutting out the clearance for the dry sump pump. Then just a little spot weld to secure the pulley to the shaft and I'm good to go. I don't have to buy anything!

Professor_speed

iTrader: (8)

I'm curious as to how close the map sensor is to the fire wall on your set up? mine is currently about 3/16 of and inch away but if it wasn't there I could move the motor back about an inch. I'm using an ls6 intake so may its different but I thought all manifold used the same spot for the map.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I only have an LS7 intake sitting around and it has the MAP on the front passenger side. I can tell you that I've got about a 0.25" clearance with the plastic heater outlet/inlet and the head. Dunno what I'm going to do about that yet, as I do want a functional defroster.

Professor_speed

iTrader: (8)

oh i guess the maps are in different places. if it makes you feel any better my passenger head is touching the lower heater outlet. i was going to try to re route it from the inside. post up if you figure that problem out and ill do the same.

Hoffy630

Wow...this build is amazing.. My friend has a 240SX with a Redtop SR20DET turbo in it, and I thought THAT was fast....this is going to scream hell and fire everywhere it goes!!! GREAT PROGRESS SO FAR!!!! 20 Thumbs Up!!

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I've moved to Long Island. My little apt doesn't have real garages available... so I rented one in Queens! Here's the beast getting dropped off. You'll notice the rear sitting low because the F'n Ohlins still aren't here (sent out 11/07)! After ordering basic rebuild parts from Japan without without actually looking at my shocks (wait a few months), then actually ordering specific parts I needed (wait a few months), and now realizing that those specific parts that showed up are different then what I need, I'm presuming that I'm going to be... waiting a few months. These coil overs better be Amazing.

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

Great looking car man. Going to be a beast for sure.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

Actually I like that stance better, you should arch the rear well's and set up your suspension as such...oh wait nm, your in Queens, a car that low won't last long!

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Called ohlins again today, they cat that used to "take care of" their parts ordering from Japan, no longer works there...

Talked to a nice guy named Christer who has taken his place. They said that they need to order entirely new shock bodies for the rear. I asked them to look into ordering them with the 300zx spindel mounts instead of the 240sx mounts for me. Maybe there will be a silver lining in all of this frustration. (the 300zx spindles are made of Aluminum instead of iron like the 240sx and save you 3.5 lbs per rear corner) Christer wasn't sure and said he'd get back to me. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I think it's closer to 6 to 7 lbs per side of unsprung mass you are taking off. I think when I did it that it was around that when I weighed the difference to be an what I've read on the internet about it as well.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

If it's 7 lbs per corner... now I'm going to be pissed if ohlins can't figure this out.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I'm pretty sure it is. Those cast iron pieces are pretty heavy. It might be ~6 lbs savings each just for the upright and I took the shield out as well and that added on enough to make the scale go over to 7 lbs or something like that.

Make sure when you get the Z32 uprights that you get the metal shaped insert that goes on the ball joint... without it you can't mount it on the ball joint and the Z32 upright can't be used. Oh, and you'll also notice after you tighten up the axle that the dust shield on the axle rubs against the Z32 upright and you'll have to take the dust shield off of the axle.

I had the Z32 cups put on the stance coilovers when I got them. The way the cup worked out made the coilover shorter overall or there's less threads on the Z32 cup the way they did it. With that said, the car sits pretty low at it's highest setting. Here's a pic of my S13 with the Stance's on it and the Z32 cups are screwed on 1 inch. That's the least amount I feel comfortable running them at and I wanted the car low so it's no biggie.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Ted, thanx for the word on the inserts and dust shields! I've heard that the rear sits lower with the Al upright. Yours doesn't look like it sitting too low though. Any new videos, how well is your suspension sorted? Also how do you like the stock 4.08 rear ratio?

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Now I know you were speaking in jest, but...

I already rolled the rear fenders. May be even a touch too much as I think I might need a 10mm spacer in back now for the wheel to look completely flush.

I should have stopped here...


But I pulled it just a tad more. Even though the above looks evil the notion of a rub at 100+ miles per hour didn't sit well with me.

And this just for kicks. This is a pic of an autocrosser from Connecticut's s14 (He goes by AceInHole on zilvia.net). He is running 285s on all four corners! The fronts specifically are 285/30/R18 on 18x10 +20 motegi wheels. I seriously thought that I was pushing the boundries of stock rolled and pulled front steel fenders when I ordered my 17x9 wheels for 255 tires for the front of my car almost two years ago. When I can afford serious brakes that require 18" wheels I will be upgrading to this size tire at some distant point in the future.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

NP man!

The car doesn't look so low but I for surely felt it when I had a crappy done up exhaust on it that I had done (not an exhaust guy by any means, don't have the tools for it and working upside down sucks with compound bends ha ha) and that exhaust was scraping everywhere! But that's the highest I can go, I can always go lower!

No new videos yet. Haven't worked on the car much. Got it registered and insured and now I need to get the turn signals and lights wired up so it's street ready. Also got some sway bars and adjustable arms to play around with the suspension settings and eventually here hope to get out with it and play withe balance of the car. With gas prices going up and busy with other thigns the project got put on the back burner for a little while as a lot of people would probably understand.

From the little driving I've done so far of the car I love the 4.08's for messing around. Will probably require a little more shifting and going into a higher gear is my guess once I get out and driving it and from the feedback I've gotten from Erin with his LS1 swapped S13. I know with the skinny tires on it that hooking in 1st or 2nd was tough and even when I tried to not shift to hard with the clutch into third I still broke them loose for a bit! Was pretty cool compared to the M6 LT1 T/A I use to have where to even just chirp 3rd I had to work the hell out of the clutch!

Need to get the car ready for the street so I can cruise around some and feel what it's like to be in a 2500 lbs and stiff springs for I have a feeling it's going to be a rough ride but who know's, maybe the stances will really help smooth it out, time will tell.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Here's a pic I found on the net of what I'm talking about on the inserts:

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I understand for sure, but you might be very pleasently surprised with your gas milage if you measure it. My mothers auto C6 vette makes almost 29 mpg highway dead stock. With intake, exhaust, and a tune I'm sure we can get it over 30! Get out and drive that thing!

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah, I'm aware of gas mileage potention. Erin I think got 27 when he went to an event last year.

I wasn't talking gas mileage of the car, sorry. I was talking trailoring it to events and the such adds up. It's a race car, got the interior totally stripped out to reduce weight and it's going to ride really rough so I wouldn't want to take it on longer trips. Got it street legal so I can drive it around on the weekends as like my motorcycle type joyride since I don't like riding motorcycles around my area.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

This is a double post that I started in the advance engine tech section:

LS1tech I have a sad fact for you. If you search for "swirl" all you get are pages of threads from "appearance and detailing".

I'm building a new short block and have been reading up on piston design. I've read a few debates on reverse dome vs. traditional circumferential dish. I was leaning towards a reverse dome when I cam accross some writings by Larry Widmer of Endyn.

He has some interesting theories about basically building a reverse dome on the exhaust side of the piston with a regular dome on the intake side of the piston in order to mechanically induce swirl and a better/faster/more localized burn. Even more interesting than his theories are his results! His personal street car is running 13.4:1 compression on 92 octane with VERY little ignition advance (down to 10 degrees), and 300 hp out of 2L with incredibly low BSFC. He originally developed his ideas in the 70s while working on 2 valve nascar heads, though Endyn now seems to specialize parts for N/A hondas.

I've really enjoyed his articles:

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/

and here are some pics of his ideas on piston design I pilfered from his web site (I hope he doesn't mind)







I have a set of stock CNC LS7 heads that have been milled to a 63cc cumbustion chamber



What's up with the funny button of material in the chamber just above the spark plug between the intake and exhaust halves of the chamber? I hope some of the head porters stop by.



With the cam that I am considering now with a IVC of 43.5/68.5 @ .050"/.006" lift I am going to need a dish of about 16cc to keep my DCR below 9. I think that might be a difficult piston to design. Especially for these LS7 heads which seem to have the majority of their chamber volume below the intake (which Mr. Widmer suggests I eliminate with a partial traditional dome; even at the expense of intake valve lift!).

Has anyone tried "soft head" style design on an LS engine?