The G-Body Swap Thread
Heres some updated pics of my build
87 buick GN, LQ4 with a 76mm turbo. i made my own mounts using old a-body clamshells bolted to the frame, and made the engine plates out of flat iron. no fitment issues anywhere, using a cut truck pan as well. Also using a TRZ manual rack and pinion and a factory truck manifold on the drivers side. Pass side and crossover are Schedule 10 stainless. A list of mods in my sig, ask if you have any Qs, and check the 87 buick folder in the upper left of my photobucket account for more detailed pics
http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc192/Grrh77/
Gary
87 buick GN, LQ4 with a 76mm turbo. i made my own mounts using old a-body clamshells bolted to the frame, and made the engine plates out of flat iron. no fitment issues anywhere, using a cut truck pan as well. Also using a TRZ manual rack and pinion and a factory truck manifold on the drivers side. Pass side and crossover are Schedule 10 stainless. A list of mods in my sig, ask if you have any Qs, and check the 87 buick folder in the upper left of my photobucket account for more detailed pics
http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc192/Grrh77/
Gary
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Heres some updated pics of my build
87 buick GN, LQ4 with a 76mm turbo. i made my own mounts using old a-body clamshells bolted to the frame, and made the engine plates out of flat iron. no fitment issues anywhere, using a cut truck pan as well. Also using a TRZ manual rack and pinion and a factory truck manifold on the drivers side. Pass side and crossover are Schedule 10 stainless. A list of mods in my sig, ask if you have any Qs, and check the 87 buick folder in the upper left of my photobucket account for more detailed pics
http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc192/Grrh77/
Gary
87 buick GN, LQ4 with a 76mm turbo. i made my own mounts using old a-body clamshells bolted to the frame, and made the engine plates out of flat iron. no fitment issues anywhere, using a cut truck pan as well. Also using a TRZ manual rack and pinion and a factory truck manifold on the drivers side. Pass side and crossover are Schedule 10 stainless. A list of mods in my sig, ask if you have any Qs, and check the 87 buick folder in the upper left of my photobucket account for more detailed pics
http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc192/Grrh77/
Gary
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 28
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Does the aftermarket offer an engine crossmember? I know all the Mustang guys get the chromoly engine crossmemeber for more room and less weight that look totally awesome. I have yet to see one for G-bodies, but maybe someone knows of one. Would probably solve oil pan clearance issues.
Ya'll do great work!
TONS of great information in this thread. Will be using it for my future Generation III small block Chevrolet installation. Keep it up! :-)
Ya'll do great work!
TONS of great information in this thread. Will be using it for my future Generation III small block Chevrolet installation. Keep it up! :-)
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 28
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Thanks for clearing that up. I figured since I could not find one on the Internet, they did not exist. :-) I know the difference between full-frame cars like ours and others, but didn't know if they offered a smaller version of the under the engine cross-member. Oh well, full-frame cars are still better than sub-frame ones any day, in my opinion. :-D
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Delaware
Ideas for my G-body? I have an 81 cutlass as the name suggests. Basically i'm having trouble narrowing down what i want to do for powertrain. i've been thinking mostly about one of two ideas. Idea one--GMPP Ram Jet 502. Idea two--LS1 w/ procharger. Anyone have any ideas as to wich would be the most bang for the buck? Easier install? Better performance? I know saying that I want an LS1 w/a procharger is a little vague. I'd like to run a moderate amount of boost 7-10#'s. Which I think would give me about 550hp @crank. Which is about the amount of power I'm looking for. I think the LS-1 would need a rebuild to be ready for a decent amount of boost. Forged pistons, upgraded rods, lower compression, and probably a cam set up for boost.
Anyways, these two builds would be completely different. So I'm looking for a little direction. Help please.
Anyways, these two builds would be completely different. So I'm looking for a little direction. Help please.
I believe there is finally an easy solution to the G-Body oil pan which will put me out of the oil pan mod business but that's okay! It wasn't really a money maker for me anyway....I primarily provided the service to help out other G-body swappers.
I haven't had the opportunity to personally verify this so up until now I have been hesitant to recommend this but after review of the photo's below (assuming the measurements are correct and I have no reason to believe that they're not) it appears that the CTS-V LS2 oil pan should be a direct fit WITHOUT modification for the G-body!!! When I modify my pans, I take out about 1" and this is actually tapered so that it is slightly less in the middle to match the contour of the engine crossmember. If you carefully compare the F-body pan (which I use for the modification) to the CTS-V pan you'll see that it not only is 1" shorter in length at the deep end but it also tapers in the correct direction on the sides in addition to this!
The other beauty of the CTS-V pan is that it is a shallow pan (only 1/2" lower than the F-body pan!) so that you don't have to worry about having something hit your oil pan because it hangs below the protection of the engine crossmember (remember...these are CAST aluminum oil pans which will crack or break on severe impact rather than dent!!!).
I'd hate to see someone try this and then tell me that it doesn't work, but by all indications, it sure looks like a slam dunk to me not to mention price-wise its probably about the same as a modded pan (once you add the price of a pick-up tube, windage tray and oil pan baffle).
Hope this helps!
Specific's of CTS-V pan:
Capacity: 5.5 qts
Oil pan: 12577901
Oil pump pickup: 12577906
Windage tray: 12558268 (same as Truck "C/K)
Dipstick tube: ?
Dipstick: ?
O-ring for Oil pump pickup:?
Oil pan baffle: 12577904
I haven't had the opportunity to personally verify this so up until now I have been hesitant to recommend this but after review of the photo's below (assuming the measurements are correct and I have no reason to believe that they're not) it appears that the CTS-V LS2 oil pan should be a direct fit WITHOUT modification for the G-body!!! When I modify my pans, I take out about 1" and this is actually tapered so that it is slightly less in the middle to match the contour of the engine crossmember. If you carefully compare the F-body pan (which I use for the modification) to the CTS-V pan you'll see that it not only is 1" shorter in length at the deep end but it also tapers in the correct direction on the sides in addition to this!
The other beauty of the CTS-V pan is that it is a shallow pan (only 1/2" lower than the F-body pan!) so that you don't have to worry about having something hit your oil pan because it hangs below the protection of the engine crossmember (remember...these are CAST aluminum oil pans which will crack or break on severe impact rather than dent!!!).
I'd hate to see someone try this and then tell me that it doesn't work, but by all indications, it sure looks like a slam dunk to me not to mention price-wise its probably about the same as a modded pan (once you add the price of a pick-up tube, windage tray and oil pan baffle).
Hope this helps!
Specific's of CTS-V pan:
Capacity: 5.5 qts
Oil pan: 12577901
Oil pump pickup: 12577906
Windage tray: 12558268 (same as Truck "C/K)
Dipstick tube: ?
Dipstick: ?
O-ring for Oil pump pickup:?
Oil pan baffle: 12577904
Has anyone actually tried this pan? BRP recommends the LH8 which looks to me to be the hummer pan from the Oil pan stickies.. This doesnt look to be a good alternative ( the LH8 ) as it would possibly expose the pan below the engine saddle.
( dont know for sure but the difference in the height is 2 inches taller on the LH8)
Also...The demensions shown for the Hummer pan show a 8.5 in width at the deep end vs. 10.5 on the CTS-V.. This is a another critical spot for clearing the engine saddle... But i dont know if you have that much to play with..
Please respond, any one thats tried the CTS-V pan or that has a better measurements showing the clearance..
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks boosted.. that answers my question if its lower than the engine cradle.
Do you have a measurement on how much lower it is?
Also, How much space do you have between the cradle and the pan?
Thanks.
Matt
Do you have a measurement on how much lower it is?
Also, How much space do you have between the cradle and the pan?
Thanks.
Matt
The ground clearance is also effected by how high the motor gets mounted as well. So just taking into consideration the pan isnt the full story, the mounts the guy used is also important.
Agreed, It is best to put it into context.
I was basing my comments on John Bs ground work and images on his site since I have John Bs mounts..
Matt
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Has anyone actually tried this pan? BRP recommends the LH8 which looks to me to be the hummer pan from the Oil pan stickies.. This doesnt look to be a good alternative ( the LH8 ) as it would possibly expose the pan below the engine saddle.
( dont know for sure but the difference in the height is 2 inches taller on the LH8)
Also...The demensions shown for the Hummer pan show a 8.5 in width at the deep end vs. 10.5 on the CTS-V.. This is a another critical spot for clearing the engine saddle... But i dont know if you have that much to play with..
Please respond, any one thats tried the CTS-V pan or that has a better measurements showing the clearance..
Thanks,
Matt
( dont know for sure but the difference in the height is 2 inches taller on the LH8)
Also...The demensions shown for the Hummer pan show a 8.5 in width at the deep end vs. 10.5 on the CTS-V.. This is a another critical spot for clearing the engine saddle... But i dont know if you have that much to play with..
Please respond, any one thats tried the CTS-V pan or that has a better measurements showing the clearance..
Thanks,
Matt
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I must have used to search button a million times and read G-bodys thread 5 times from page 1.
I know it is the small things and the end that really makes things happen and can make plans change, now after reading so much I cant remember everything so I am going to have to ask. but thirst you need some info .
I have built my own motor mounts and I am using a corvette front assembly and intake manifold.
Now I was wondering if any of you have had problems your Oil sticks being to long?
I know it is the small things and the end that really makes things happen and can make plans change, now after reading so much I cant remember everything so I am going to have to ask. but thirst you need some info .
I have built my own motor mounts and I am using a corvette front assembly and intake manifold.
Now I was wondering if any of you have had problems your Oil sticks being to long?
The BRP Hedders and LSX swap kits will work with ether the LH8 or the CTS-V GM oil pans. The LH8 however allows you to use the OEM front accessories including the A/C compressor on car and corvette accessories without notching or top mounting the A/C. If running the CTS-V the motor has to sit further back in the frame and required a www.KwikPerf.com Top mount A/C or required a notch for the OEM low mount A/C.
Also at BRP we are working with Hedman to work on some aftermarket pan options as well.
Also at BRP we are working with Hedman to work on some aftermarket pan options as well.