The G-Body Swap Thread
For those who dont want to use the lh8 pan due to its length, you can use the f-body pan with 1" setback engine mounts and no modifications to the engine crossmember. I used transdapt 1" setback mounts and moroso 62630 frame pads for my swap. This will leave very little room between the engine and firewall but weight distribution/transfer will be awesome. That is well worth the extra effort imo.
For me, I want it all.. Full funtion.. AC, Cruise, and the power, of course, to boot..
Additionally, my guess is, at one inch back, that you might have problems retaining the stock crossmember location.
Matt
The a/c box will require some modification to fit but it is easily doable. Approx 1" will have to be removed from the mounting flange and resealed to the firewall. As far as the trans crossmember I am using one similar to the iceman piece and it fit very well. I just elongated the mounting hole a bit. I did have to mod it more extensively to fit the t-56 when I changed from the th400 but that was not related to the engine setback. My car has no a/c now but it did and it fit. It is now more of a weekend car whereas before it was going to ba a DD. Weight distribution handling and weight transfer were very important to me when building the car so those things were laid out first and everything else was engineered to work with the setup. I'll post a link to the build. I should be updating it later today. Anyone interested please post some feedback for me. The thread has gotten alot of traffic but not many responses. It's a little disappointing actually. Lots of people asked me to start one so I did and now 
I just completed a 5.3 / 4L60E swap into my '87 Monte Carlo SS. Per Topher's suggestions, I used 1" setback mounts, but I also used my stock frame and engine mounts. I used the CTS-V oil pan, and couldn't be happier. It's a great fit! It does hang below the crossmember about 1/2" or so, but it doesn't bother me. I haven't lowered the car or anything.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Delaware
looking for mounts i have an 81 cutlass supreme. i have a 99 LS1 from an Fbody. i think i will notch the cross member to allow me to retain the factory oil pan, but i may look for a different bracket for the compressor. i have a couple questions i havent been able to find the answer to. Has anyone found a set of motor mounts that sits the engine in the proper location for the factory A4(200R4)? Is a 4l60E the same length as an 2004r?
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Delaware
motor mounts sorry the last post was a little rushed. i'm trying to make sense of all the different motor mounts. some move the engine back, some up and forward. the hard part is finding a consistant frame of reference to compare them all to, such as the sbc, or in my case sbo location. i understand why each wants to move the engine a particular way, but i dont know how it compares to where the engine sits now. and if I will have to move the tranny mount to compensate one way or another. i'm planning on putting in a 4l60e. not sure if it is the same length as the 2004r or not? anyone know?
sorry the last post was a little rushed. i'm trying to make sense of all the different motor mounts. some move the engine back, some up and forward. the hard part is finding a consistant frame of reference to compare them all to, such as the sbc, or in my case sbo location. i understand why each wants to move the engine a particular way, but i dont know how it compares to where the engine sits now. and if I will have to move the tranny mount to compensate one way or another. i'm planning on putting in a 4l60e. not sure if it is the same length as the 2004r or not? anyone know?
I've got a ls1/4l60e in my ls and with the BRP kit the trans crossmember sits just forward of the factory position, but I'm going to have to get the stock driveshaft shortened some if that helps you any.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Delaware
so it sounds like with the BRP the engine sits further forward, but the mounts on the 4l60 are further forward even though it is longer overall. i'm leaning toward using the BRP or ATS that lets you pick the location for the mounts. anyone have experience with these? i figure if i leave the trans in and pull the sbo motor out, then place the ls1 in with mounts and line it up with the trans it should be in the stock location no? will i be able to center it side to side based on the stock frame mounts as well or will they be in the way too much?
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Verdad Gallardo I just completed a 5.3 / 4L60E swap into my '87 Monte Carlo SS. Per Topher's suggestions, I used 1" setback mounts, but I also used my stock frame and engine mounts. I used the CTS-V oil pan, and couldn't be happier. It's a great fit! It does hang below the crossmember about 1/2" or so, but it doesn't bother me. I haven't lowered the car or anything.
Glad to hear it worked for you. Lets see some pics. NOW!! LOL
I'll do my best! Here's a VERY condensed version
Here's a shot of the old crate 350 being pulled. I say old, but it had only 5,000 miles on it.
Here's the 5.3/4L60E coming home from the salvage yard
I modified the heat/AC box to clearance the valve cover and coils
All cleaned up and ready to go!
Here's the final install. It's a good fit, and in hindsight, not that much work.
The next steps are to find or fabricate some kind of intake, top of the fluids, go for a ride, and do a little tuning!
Here's a shot of the old crate 350 being pulled. I say old, but it had only 5,000 miles on it.
Here's the 5.3/4L60E coming home from the salvage yard
I modified the heat/AC box to clearance the valve cover and coils
All cleaned up and ready to go!
Here's the final install. It's a good fit, and in hindsight, not that much work.
The next steps are to find or fabricate some kind of intake, top of the fluids, go for a ride, and do a little tuning!
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Delaware
I started fitting my 99' Fbody LS1 into my 81 cuttlass supreme. the biggest trouble i'm having right now is the alternator hitting the steering box. there is an "ear" on the back of the box that i'm wondering if I can cut off. It seems like it was formed that way just to do with the manufacturing process. Does anyone have any ideas? I dont know if all Gbodies had the same power steering boxes or not. Again this "ear" just looks like a piece of solid metal that is protruding from the back right of it. If anyone else can show me pics of their swaps and the space between the alternator and sterring box it may help. I looked at John B's swap page and couldnt find a good pic, atleast not well enougn for me to tell if the sterring box is identical. Of course the passenger valve cover is clost to the heater box too, but this isnt the biggest problem right now.
I started fitting my 99' Fbody LS1 into my 81 cuttlass supreme. the biggest trouble i'm having right now is the alternator hitting the steering box. there is an "ear" on the back of the box that i'm wondering if I can cut off. It seems like it was formed that way just to do with the manufacturing process. Does anyone have any ideas? I dont know if all Gbodies had the same power steering boxes or not. Again this "ear" just looks like a piece of solid metal that is protruding from the back right of it. If anyone else can show me pics of their swaps and the space between the alternator and sterring box it may help. I looked at John B's swap page and couldnt find a good pic, atleast not well enougn for me to tell if the sterring box is identical. Of course the passenger valve cover is clost to the heater box too, but this isnt the biggest problem right now.
I might be able to get a few pictures for you of my swap. Its almost complete, but lacking a few things. You are right, the valve covers are close to the heater box making the coils real close. I swapped them out for a set of truck coils (the good ones) and haven't had any problem. They sit higher up on the cover.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Delaware
as it is right now i have the LS engine in the car but not bolted up. i have the BRP engine and frame mounts connected to the engine. and it is sitting on the frame. i have it hooked up to my 2004R to control the forward and back location and the angle. with the tranny all the way forward there is minimal clearance on the heater box. the coils will not fit without trimming the back of the bracket. the engine will not sit level unless I remove th e alternator, it is hitting the steering box. i think the box is different for oldsmobiles or maybe the earlier Gbodies. so i tried to trim a tab off of the steering box and it sprung a leak. I would really like some pics of other G-body's focusing on the alternator/steering box clearance, I need to see if there were different steering boxes and if that would solve the problem. the aftermarket steering boxes look nice, and compact but are expensive. about $400. so....pics please of alternator steering box clearance!!!
On my 442 I rotated the #7 coil 90* and it cleared the heater box. Might work on yours. Pretty easy mod if you got a drill bit and tap for the 6MM thread. Im doing a truck engine with truck accessories, so my power steering pump is down low and the pulley hit the steering box. I just changed out the pulley for a smaller diameter one and I was set.
Starting to make progress Well I have gathered enough parts to start the process so I sold my old motor and trans and started on the money pit...
Here is the old going out....
Here is the LS2 from an 05 GTO with Howell engine harness and TAC module which will allow me to use the Drive by wire function and cruise.
Here is the old going out....
Here is the LS2 from an 05 GTO with Howell engine harness and TAC module which will allow me to use the Drive by wire function and cruise.
Here is the 4L65E out of the same application..
Inspired by John Bzdel... Here is the FI tank from a 4.3 litre monte with the desired baffling and FI sending unit.
John had mentioned the restriction on the TBI fuel sending unit ( Feed and return)so I knew that some changes were needed.. Here is the sending unit after I gave it a little sand blasting.
Here pictured with the 3/8 feed and power plug off along with new 3/8 and 5/16 lines for replacement.
Although similiar to what John had done I wanted to go a little different direction in that I wanted nylon quick connect lines from the tank ( 3/8 feed and 5/16 return) to the corvette regulator. The reason is 1.) I wanted to be able to easily service the filter\regulator. 2.) I wanted to run nylon all the way up to the fuel rail.
With this in mind, I borrowd my brothers flaring tool to put the standard rolled edge you see on Fuel rails, on the new feed and return lines. The one on the far right is the stock 5/16 vapor line that will remain in the same position on the frame.
The hardest part was the return line because its used to support the pump assembly with a ring tacked on to the bottom of the return line and also has the gas gauge sending unit mounted to it.. Rather than mess with that I cut off the top of the old return line, sealed it, and plumbed a new return behind it..
Inspired by John Bzdel... Here is the FI tank from a 4.3 litre monte with the desired baffling and FI sending unit.
John had mentioned the restriction on the TBI fuel sending unit ( Feed and return)so I knew that some changes were needed.. Here is the sending unit after I gave it a little sand blasting.
Here pictured with the 3/8 feed and power plug off along with new 3/8 and 5/16 lines for replacement.
Although similiar to what John had done I wanted to go a little different direction in that I wanted nylon quick connect lines from the tank ( 3/8 feed and 5/16 return) to the corvette regulator. The reason is 1.) I wanted to be able to easily service the filter\regulator. 2.) I wanted to run nylon all the way up to the fuel rail.
With this in mind, I borrowd my brothers flaring tool to put the standard rolled edge you see on Fuel rails, on the new feed and return lines. The one on the far right is the stock 5/16 vapor line that will remain in the same position on the frame.
The hardest part was the return line because its used to support the pump assembly with a ring tacked on to the bottom of the return line and also has the gas gauge sending unit mounted to it.. Rather than mess with that I cut off the top of the old return line, sealed it, and plumbed a new return behind it..
Last edited by 2Aspire; Sep 15, 2009 at 09:01 AM.
Forgot to mention the fun I had making the Walbro a "direct connect" Basically what it comes down to is that the Walbro pump uses a proprietary connector that doesnt mate up.. So there is a little kit thats needed which basically wants you to lop off the stock end and crimp on the new connector.. Sorry, but that was not for me.. I disassembled the connector and silver soldered the end in after crimping the correct leads and reinserting them in the correct connector.
One other item, I had to remove the plastic connector\ power plug that goes through the top of the sending unit so that I wouldnt melt it into oblivion when attaching the new lines. Theres a special fastener thats used to anchor the plug tight as there is a rubber seal on the bottom of the connector. I call it the "Damn it" fastener. Allow me to explain... This bugger is so tight on there I had to pry it off... without destroying the plug... at which point it snapped and from then on became the "Damn it" fastener..
Which quickly turned into the "Damn it, where do I find one of these?" fasteners.
Its similiar to the fastener used in a standard distributor when I had to change the pick-up coil, but unfortunately it was a different size..
As luck would have it.. I was able to dodge a bullet and find one in a multi pack in the HELP!! Items of my local auto parts store...
More later as progress and time permits..
One other item, I had to remove the plastic connector\ power plug that goes through the top of the sending unit so that I wouldnt melt it into oblivion when attaching the new lines. Theres a special fastener thats used to anchor the plug tight as there is a rubber seal on the bottom of the connector. I call it the "Damn it" fastener. Allow me to explain... This bugger is so tight on there I had to pry it off... without destroying the plug... at which point it snapped and from then on became the "Damn it" fastener..
Which quickly turned into the "Damn it, where do I find one of these?" fasteners.
Its similiar to the fastener used in a standard distributor when I had to change the pick-up coil, but unfortunately it was a different size..
As luck would have it.. I was able to dodge a bullet and find one in a multi pack in the HELP!! Items of my local auto parts store...
More later as progress and time permits..
Last edited by 2Aspire; Sep 15, 2009 at 01:53 AM.