Looking for advise on which pedal to use for my 6.0 DBW set-up I know a few have done the swap with Electronic throttle control.. LS7 in John Bzdels.. and another is SilverBullet73 with LS2 DBW..

I purchased a harness, ecm and pedal but the darn thing (pedal) is not going to fit.. Sways out in the wrong direction.. and is big enough to make you say "Yabba Dabba Dooo!!" ( A little Fred Flinstone lingo there)

Any help.. pictures.. part numbers.. would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks,

Matt

 

I just used the Corvette C6 gas pedal.

 

Another option would be to make a bracket and bolt the pedal assembly to the bracket so you can orientate the pedal correctly.

 

Thanks John, how well did this fit? were you able to put in in the stock position without too much trouble?

Trying to avoid as much fabrication as possible.. If there is something that works and looks as close to stock as possible.. That would be the ticket..

I realize that I'm not going to be able to just bolt it in the stock position but may get lucky with at least one stock hole working..

Thanks,

Matt

 

I had to do some minor tweaking. The first pic shows a side by side comparison of the stock G-Body pedal on the left versus the C6 pedal on the right. I didn't like the size of the C6 pedal face and wanted it to look OEM so I transferred the G-body pedal to the C6 pedal but the angle was all wrong based on how it mounted to the steel arm so I put the C6 pedal in a vise (clamping it on the metal neck just before the electrical assembly) and bent the metal arm enough so that the G-body pedal was in the proper orientation. You can see the finished product prior to installation in the 2nd pic.

I don't recall if I used any of the stock mounting holes on the firewall but it was no big deal to mount it as I recall.

Hope this helps!

 

Now that I see your pedal I can see that the direction its bent is the same as mine..

Mine must be from a dump truck ( Or SUV) though as the metal is much thicker and your pedal, before you changed yours out to the OE Monte style, is smaller yet than mine as well..

In short, I will be ditching this one.. Not going to be an easy task to bend the one I have..


Thanks John,

This helps Immensely!

 

just want to read through this later.

 

I want to make sure I understand this;

(1) If using the BRP mount kit and the LH8 oil pan, you can use all OEM front accessories (including the a/c compressor) without notching the pan but the oil pan will protrude below the frame crossmember?

(2) If using the BRP mount kit and the CTS-V oil pan, you can also use OEM front accessories (except for the a/c compressor) and the oil pan WILL NOT protrude below the crossmember?

(3) In either situation, the engine will be in the same position?

(4) Is there a solution that keeps the oil pan above the frame crossmember and will allow for use of all front factory accessories including the a/c compressor?

Tipsy

 

I just recieved the C6 pedal I purchased on ebay for 37 bucks shipped and its going to mount a whole lot better..

Now I just need to get the correct plug and the wiring straightened out..

 

I wonder what rear end and brakes you all use.The stock rear end is kinda weak and the brakes are undersized.

 

SN95 Mustang 8.8 here with rear discs.

 

Currently working on a ls1 4l60e swap into a 87 monte ls. I've got the BRP motor mounts (bolt in set), trans mount, and trans cross member. I opted for the hummer oil pan. Going to set the motor in tomorrow afternoon so ill let you all know about the oil pan issues being discussed.

Ive also already picked up a 8.5 from a Gn to put under the rear and easily modified the rear disc setup of a lt1 camaro to fit on the car. I can try and get some pics of it if anyones still interested.

 

Here is a pic of how huge that LH8 pan is.

 

i'm just getting started on my swap. should have the engine and trans in this week, in my garage that is. I was looking at the BRP stuff, it looks pretty nice and sounds like it puts the motor in what would be the factory location. i however was just planning on notching the K member wherever need be. i dont know which is more cost effective, i dont have an problem with cutting and welding on the crossmember though. only problem is i will have to drag the car to get the welding done. if anyone has any input on the BRP kit i'd like to know???

just FYI, i'm planning a supercharged LS1 swap on an 81cutt.

 

Let me know if you have any questions about the G-Body kit. The kit works with ether the CTS-V or the LH8 oil pan. The CTS-V will require a top mount A/C compressor though using a Kwik Perf kit. Also we are developing a Cast aluminum conversion oil pan similar to the LH8 however with a depth of only 5.5in an and 5 quart oil capacity.

 

The hummer oil pan does seem to want to sit about 3/4 of an inch lower then the crossmember under the engine. Trans isn't in, and not real sure how much if any at all that will help. I'm not worried about it though. As long as I don't take it off road it should be just fine.

Still working on getting some brake pics. Decided I would go ahead and bend the brake lines and have pics of it all to post. Been working on that gather parts and turning rotors. Car goes to a friends shop on Thursday for some help on wiring so really need the rearend in the car.

 

Quote:

i'm just getting started on my swap. should have the engine and trans in this week, in my garage that is. I was looking at the BRP stuff, it looks pretty nice and sounds like it puts the motor in what would be the factory location. i however was just planning on notching the K member wherever need be. i dont know which is more cost effective, i dont have an problem with cutting and welding on the crossmember though. only problem is i will have to drag the car to get the welding done. if anyone has any input on the BRP kit i'd like to know???

I looked at the BRP kit and it is a nice kit, but I wasn't comfortable with the pan hanging down below the crossmember. The factory never installed an oil pan below the crossmember for a reason! Anyway with my budget and all things considered, I did the following. I am working with the earlier Monte Carlo frame, and am installing a 5.3 and 700R-4 tranny into a 1955 Chevy truck. I am using the Monte Carlo front clip that I attached to my '55 frame. I have looked at several of the swaps, and did NOT want my pan hanging down below the crossmember. I am also on a budget and bought a used F-body oil pan setup including windage tray, sump tube for $120. I am using the F-body oil pan, S&P adapter style mounts ($40 on Ebay), and 70-72 Chevelle/Monte Carlo frame stands (repo on Ebay for $40) for the 350/big block engines. I have right around $250 total including mounts and 1/4" steel plate. I did notch my frame 1-1/2" to gain clearance for the oil pan, but it sits up 3/4" ABOVE the crossmember. I did this because I have not welded aluminum, but do have a welder and can fabricate steel. I used 1/4" plate to form the piece to box the crossmember. I still have to drill the corresponding holes to bolt the frame mounted motor mounts in. I basically assembled the motor mounts including the standard Chevy engine mounts bolted to the frame mounts and let the assembly rest into the crossmember where I could align all of my clearances. I am using the factory exhaust manifolds from the F-body also. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

That sounds great.. What would the cost comparitively be to the CTS-V and what would the benefits be... Im assuming this pan you are creating would allow the AC to remain in the stock position?

Matt

 

I would really like to have the engine in the factory location, this is why i like the BRP stuff. I'm inclined just to notch the K member where necessary though and use the F-body oil pan and compressor. i just wish i knew how to weld. i dont even know what kind of welder to get. would i need an arc? mig? would 120v 15A supply be enough to weld 1/4 inch steel? a little off topic, but you guys are pretty knowledable.

 

For those who dont want to use the lh8 pan due to its length, you can use the f-body pan with 1" setback engine mounts and no modifications to the engine crossmember. I used transdapt 1" setback mounts and moroso 62630 frame pads for my swap. This will leave very little room between the engine and firewall but weight distribution/transfer will be awesome. That is well worth the extra effort imo.