I don't have a stock one laying around

 

even the lokar flexible firewall mounted one is hard to fill trans with??? thats what i want to use with my th400

 

So, I fixed the mounting issue with the CTSV pan by stocking it in the mill and cutting off this flange. I loved the quality of the mount, and it got rid of the clam shell like the others I used.

But...I had NO idea of the angle being wrong. I have a iceman 4l80 mount. The fab work is almost completed on the car at the shop. It has a empty trans in it for mock up so I can't even check angle. I am feeling sooooo nervous!

 

There are angle apps for smart phones. If your driveline angles complement each other, the lack of an ideal one isn't a point to be nervous over.

 

Been going through this thread for a while know and have seen multiple mounts and setups used. but I'm just wondering what the best motor mount setup would be for my application: 79 cutlass 5.3 truck motor, 4l60e trans and hopefully stock accessory brackets, AC and truck intake. No plans for a turbo on this one.

 

The Holley mounts , hands down . But your going to need the Holley 302-2 pan the truck intake and accesorys will work fine .

 

So the truck oil pan won't work?

 

I know its probably in this thread somewhere, but what about stock exhaust manifolds? like maybe later camaro or something?

 

Truck pan works but it hangs down quite a bit. To me it was like the old school deep sump pans.





best picture I could quickly find.

As far as manifolds, fbody ones would probably work. I used truck manifolds but had to modify the drivers side with a 45* elbow to miss the frame.

 

I like the BRP mounts due to them raising the engine higher than the plates everyone sells. Also don't like how the plates use the factory clamshells. BRP mount lets the musclecar pan clear no problem. When I did my swap only headers available were the BRP unless you wanted to modify Pacesetter f body ones which I did and they didnt work so I bought the crazy expensive BRPs.

If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.

 

can you run the truck accessories and intake with the BRP mounts?

 

Not 100% sure im using holley brackets but i can mock one up in a couple days i just pulled the engine out tonight

 

picking up my car next week from 16W Fabworks. Gonna blow it apart and start final assembly!

 

01cherryreds10, if you were to use the BRP mounts again especially in a G Body car I would look into the Ultimate Headers. Yes they are a little pricey but they fit beautiful. Jim Browning is the owner of Ultimate Headers and builds them in the Mid Length and also the Long Tubes with 3" collectors. I have both styles for the G Body. The long tubes that are built by Hedman I had MANY problems with. Mostly dealing with 2 ********. This was going on for over a year. I then decided to hook up with Jim Browning and I am glad I did. His long tubes are build in stainless steel and are warranted for life. If you have access to a lift they can be put on in 20 minutes or less with a helper such as a wife or even someone else's wife. I used my wife. If you need more info shoot me a PM and I can tell you more. Rich

 

unbelievably nice work!!!! looks so damn good

 

Any reccomendation on some 2 in primaries headers for the g body?

 

BRP Musclerods makes the 2" Long tubes for the G body cars but they are one of the ******** that I was talking about. Good luck if you have a problem like I did. Why do you really need the 2" primaries? Rich

 

Ive had 2 reputable ls guys tell me so. procharged 414 Im shooting for the moon, but ive had a few guys said i didnt need them as well

 

Well you can also add me to the list of those saying that you don't need the 2" primaries. With the larger primaries you will lose a little bit of torque and port velocity. 2" primaries belong on strictly a race car. Rich

 

Anybody done any frame strengthening to the gbody? I'm not going nuts with my swap, I want around 400 horsepower and I'd like the car to handle it too. I realize the car was made for a 305, but is frame strengthening really necessary? The reason I question this now is because I saw an ls6 swapped g body and from what I saw didn't have any changes to the frame, minus the mounts for the 9in.