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What is so much nicer about the BRP mounts? Have you tried the Holley mounts?
Originally Posted by L92 OLDS
I have read that the BRP mounts suck ***** and set the engine too high
Originally Posted by 01cherryreds10
Problem with BRP mounts is that nobody else's headers fit BUT the million dollar BRP's. It does raise it up nicely though. I also found only pan that will fit with those mounts is either a Holley or GMPP pan, not the CTS-V pan like most people can use.
Originally Posted by L92 OLDS
Hmmm. Raising it up nicely means a crappy inclination angle then?
So, I fixed the mounting issue with the CTSV pan by stocking it in the mill and cutting off this flange. I loved the quality of the mount, and it got rid of the clam shell like the others I used.
But...I had NO idea of the angle being wrong. I have a iceman 4l80 mount. The fab work is almost completed on the car at the shop. It has a empty trans in it for mock up so I can't even check angle. I am feeling sooooo nervous!
Been going through this thread for a while know and have seen multiple mounts and setups used. but I'm just wondering what the best motor mount setup would be for my application: 79 cutlass 5.3 truck motor, 4l60e trans and hopefully stock accessory brackets, AC and truck intake. No plans for a turbo on this one.
Been going through this thread for a while know and have seen multiple mounts and setups used. but I'm just wondering what the best motor mount setup would be for my application: 79 cutlass 5.3 truck motor, 4l60e trans and hopefully stock accessory brackets, AC and truck intake. No plans for a turbo on this one.
The Holley mounts , hands down . But your going to need the Holley 302-2 pan the truck intake and accesorys will work fine .
Been going through this thread for a while know and have seen multiple mounts and setups used. but I'm just wondering what the best motor mount setup would be for my application: 79 cutlass 5.3 truck motor, 4l60e trans and hopefully stock accessory brackets, AC and truck intake. No plans for a turbo on this one.
I like the BRP mounts due to them raising the engine higher than the plates everyone sells. Also don't like how the plates use the factory clamshells. BRP mount lets the musclecar pan clear no problem. When I did my swap only headers available were the BRP unless you wanted to modify Pacesetter f body ones which I did and they didnt work so I bought the crazy expensive BRPs.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
I like the BRP mounts due to them raising the engine higher than the plates everyone sells. Also don't like how the plates use the factory clamshells. BRP mount lets the musclecar pan clear no problem. When I did my swap only headers available were the BRP unless you wanted to modify Pacesetter f body ones which I did and they didnt work so I bought the crazy expensive BRPs.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
can you run the truck accessories and intake with the BRP mounts?
I like the BRP mounts due to them raising the engine higher than the plates everyone sells. Also don't like how the plates use the factory clamshells. BRP mount lets the musclecar pan clear no problem. When I did my swap only headers available were the BRP unless you wanted to modify Pacesetter f body ones which I did and they didnt work so I bought the crazy expensive BRPs.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
01cherryreds10, if you were to use the BRP mounts again especially in a G Body car I would look into the Ultimate Headers. Yes they are a little pricey but they fit beautiful. Jim Browning is the owner of Ultimate Headers and builds them in the Mid Length and also the Long Tubes with 3" collectors. I have both styles for the G Body. The long tubes that are built by Hedman I had MANY problems with. Mostly dealing with 2 ********. This was going on for over a year. I then decided to hook up with Jim Browning and I am glad I did. His long tubes are build in stainless steel and are warranted for life. If you have access to a lift they can be put on in 20 minutes or less with a helper such as a wife or even someone else's wife. I used my wife. If you need more info shoot me a PM and I can tell you more. Rich
BRP Musclerods makes the 2" Long tubes for the G body cars but they are one of the ******** that I was talking about. Good luck if you have a problem like I did. Why do you really need the 2" primaries? Rich
BRP Musclerods makes the 2" Long tubes for the G body cars but they are one of the ******** that I was talking about. Good luck if you have a problem like I did. Why do you really need the 2" primaries? Rich
Ive had 2 reputable ls guys tell me so. procharged 414 Im shooting for the moon, but ive had a few guys said i didnt need them as well
Well you can also add me to the list of those saying that you don't need the 2" primaries. With the larger primaries you will lose a little bit of torque and port velocity. 2" primaries belong on strictly a race car. Rich
Anybody done any frame strengthening to the gbody? I'm not going nuts with my swap, I want around 400 horsepower and I'd like the car to handle it too. I realize the car was made for a 305, but is frame strengthening really necessary? The reason I question this now is because I saw an ls6 swapped g body and from what I saw didn't have any changes to the frame, minus the mounts for the 9in.
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