The G-Body Swap Thread
Reply Yep they sure do. Ultimate Headers make the mid mount in coated Stainless Steel and also the Long Tubes in coated Stainless Steel. They are a little pricey but in my opinion are worth the price. I have both styles. The Mid Length and the Long Tubes. If you would like more info send me a PM. Rich
Hello,
I've been lurking this forum for awhile and got a lot of good information. I have a 1983 El Camino, originally with the 229ci and I've swapped a 2001 5.3L from a suburban into it with a 4L80E.
I'm having some issues/confusion with the wiring. I got it started a few weeks ago, but have since rethought the wiring and am still a little unsure about how this is correctly done. I'm using the fusebox that's shown on LS1Tech.
When I got it started, I had the below three red wires (PCM, Lights, Fuel Pump/Starter) all combined and sent directly to the battery. I only have these labeled that way because that's what i've identified them as powering through trial and error.
I thought that seemed a little odd, so I then tried starting it with all of those sent to KEY ON (pink wire to the ignition), except the PCM wire. I tried a few variations of that, but the only way it worked was with all going directly to Battery. With the exception of the PCM, all red wires are coming from the original El Camino wiring.
There's one additional red wire that I've marked alternator indicator. this originally went to a connector that also had a brown wire. I believe that powers the alternator indicator at the dash.
Any advice on how these wires should be ran, or what in general I should do to figure this out? Maybe i'm just over thinking it and they all go to battery?
Thanks!
[/IMG]
I've been lurking this forum for awhile and got a lot of good information. I have a 1983 El Camino, originally with the 229ci and I've swapped a 2001 5.3L from a suburban into it with a 4L80E.
I'm having some issues/confusion with the wiring. I got it started a few weeks ago, but have since rethought the wiring and am still a little unsure about how this is correctly done. I'm using the fusebox that's shown on LS1Tech.
When I got it started, I had the below three red wires (PCM, Lights, Fuel Pump/Starter) all combined and sent directly to the battery. I only have these labeled that way because that's what i've identified them as powering through trial and error.
I thought that seemed a little odd, so I then tried starting it with all of those sent to KEY ON (pink wire to the ignition), except the PCM wire. I tried a few variations of that, but the only way it worked was with all going directly to Battery. With the exception of the PCM, all red wires are coming from the original El Camino wiring.
There's one additional red wire that I've marked alternator indicator. this originally went to a connector that also had a brown wire. I believe that powers the alternator indicator at the dash.
Any advice on how these wires should be ran, or what in general I should do to figure this out? Maybe i'm just over thinking it and they all go to battery?
Thanks!
[/IMG]
I think you want full-time battery going to the fuel pump relay and starter, you need both battery and ignition (pink) to different pins on the PCM, and battery to the lights.
What's confusing me is the alternator wiring. I've got a thick wire coming of the alternator stud that goes to battery/starter/power, and a similar size wire coming from the alternator connector along with the smaller brown wire. I haven't traced the alternator connector wires, but I can see how the brown would go to alternator indicator, but what does the bigger wire do?
What did you use for a fuse box? In the past I have used the Dorman fuse blocks with relays hanging off them, but this time I am putting the fuse box under the hood, and would like something that is more waterproof. I just found Current Performance makes a couple boxes that look like they will work.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
I'm doing a 1979 El Camino, and I've been looking at the hacked-up wiring coming off my alternator.
I think you want full-time battery going to the fuel pump relay and starter, you need both battery and ignition (pink) to different pins on the PCM, and battery to the lights.
What's confusing me is the alternator wiring. I've got a thick wire coming of the alternator stud that goes to battery/starter/power, and a similar size wire coming from the alternator connector along with the smaller brown wire. I haven't traced the alternator connector wires, but I can see how the brown would go to alternator indicator, but what does the bigger wire do?
What did you use for a fuse box? In the past I have used the Dorman fuse blocks with relays hanging off them, but this time I am putting the fuse box under the hood, and would like something that is more waterproof. I just found Current Performance makes a couple boxes that look like they will work.
I think you want full-time battery going to the fuel pump relay and starter, you need both battery and ignition (pink) to different pins on the PCM, and battery to the lights.
What's confusing me is the alternator wiring. I've got a thick wire coming of the alternator stud that goes to battery/starter/power, and a similar size wire coming from the alternator connector along with the smaller brown wire. I haven't traced the alternator connector wires, but I can see how the brown would go to alternator indicator, but what does the bigger wire do?
What did you use for a fuse box? In the past I have used the Dorman fuse blocks with relays hanging off them, but this time I am putting the fuse box under the hood, and would like something that is more waterproof. I just found Current Performance makes a couple boxes that look like they will work.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/LT1-SwapCom-148224325211824/photos/?tab=album&album_id=570183759682543
Also, mine never had A/C, so I don't think it should be HVAC.
Here's another picture:
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I know this is probably off topic for this thread, but clearly y'all are g-body experts, and I would appreciate some input.
What do you guys think this is worth? It is all original, 140K miles, very solid, zero rust, been owned by the same dude for the last 12 years. He says he only put 3K miles on it since he has had it. Lives in a nice garage. Mint interior. Drove nice. Had a surging brake pedal when braking hard. Was a little wobbly around corners and after looking at the pictures, I understand why...See if anyone spots the problem...It is kind of weird to see this car and it is 30 years old. When I bought my GTO in 1985 it was only 15 years old and it was in worse shape.
What would you pay for it?
Andrew
What do you guys think this is worth? It is all original, 140K miles, very solid, zero rust, been owned by the same dude for the last 12 years. He says he only put 3K miles on it since he has had it. Lives in a nice garage. Mint interior. Drove nice. Had a surging brake pedal when braking hard. Was a little wobbly around corners and after looking at the pictures, I understand why...See if anyone spots the problem...It is kind of weird to see this car and it is 30 years old. When I bought my GTO in 1985 it was only 15 years old and it was in worse shape.
What would you pay for it?
Andrew
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,540
Likes: 207
I guess the value to an individual is related to their income level and the amount of money that will be saved through work that will not need to be done based on the condition of the car. Personally, I'm done buying POS cars at my age that require years worth of work to get them on the road again...I don't have the time or energy for them anymore and also have other hobbies to allocate my time/money towards.
I guess the value to an individual is related to their income level and the amount of money that will be saved through work that will not need to be done based on the condition of the car. Personally, I'm done buying POS cars at my age that require years worth of work to get them on the road again...I don't have the time or energy for them anymore and also have other hobbies to allocate my time/money towards.
Andrew
Here are some more pictures. The bottom of the doors seem to have some surface rust, but nothing serious. I need some experienced g-body guys to see stuff I don't notice...LOL
The last pictures shows odd damage by the passenger mirror. I think a new piece of molding would hide most that of that pretty well.
The last pictures shows odd damage by the passenger mirror. I think a new piece of molding would hide most that of that pretty well.
Looks like a solid car. They are getting very hard to find up here in the rust belt. I'd say his asking price is fair/good for my area.
This car is extremely clean and tempting me to go get it:
https://nmi.craigslist.org/cto/6092610755.html
This car is extremely clean and tempting me to go get it:
https://nmi.craigslist.org/cto/6092610755.html
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach
That's a very good looking example. It always drove me nuts how the SS on the horn button always seemed a little crooked when compared to the raised horn logo. Typical rust spots are the trunk, wheel wells, drain tracks, frame and the roof just above the drivers door. That's a factory 305 for sure! LOL. Take good care of that one!