GearGrinder

iTrader: (1)

I have a '72 firebird and a '98 LS1. I want to retain air conditioning since I live in texas. I've looked at BRP's kit and also have looked at the simpler mounting plates, like ATS and S&P.

Like most everyone, overall cost is a factor. so what is the cheaper route?

BRP kit (need another oil pan?) $469+

S&P or ATS plates with a/c relocation and whatever else I need..

I found the plate diagrams on this forum and I have a plasma, MIG, drill press and just about everything else I would need to make my own, so I might give that a try.

I'm slightly worried that the BRP kit puts the top of the engien very close to the hood. My hood has the factory ram air plenum in it and I don't want to have to modify that if possible.

olblue51

iTrader: (21)

I'm going with the Edelbrock swap plates and headers in my '73 Camaro. I had the BRP kit but sold it. The stock f-body pan is supposed to work well in our cars. You will have to relocate the stock frame mounts on the crossmember but you have to do that with the BRP kit also. Plus the hummer oil pan hangs lower than the crossmember... don't know how low your car is but it was a concern for me. $469 plus shipping and having to buy another oil pan, pickup,windage tray, dipstick tube... all of that is a little hard to swallow when you can buy the adapter plates that do just as good of a job. I've also heard the Trans-dapt plates work really well.

loweredd

iTrader: (2)

I used the Trans-Dapt plates on my Impala. You will need to relocate an F-bosdy A/C compressor though. The plates hit the brackets.

GearGrinder

iTrader: (1)

what do you mean by relocating the frame mounts on the crossmember? Are you talking about the lower part of the motor mounts?

Is this the edelbrock plates you are referring to?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

only ones I can find that Edelbrock makes are for A-body

olblue51

iTrader: (21)

Yes those are it... The A-body mounts also work in 2nd gen f-bodies. Here is a post where you can get some part numbers for Edelbrock...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/983724-edelbrock-conversion-headers-exhaust.html

You will have to move your frame mounts (the mounts bolted to your crossmember) further back to make room for the oil pan. You will either have to drill new holes or weld them to the crossmember. Also, if you have the clamshell style mounts you might want to go with the Trans-dapt plates. I've heard the Edelbrock platess have trouble with alternator hitting the clamshell mount... don't know for sure though. Here is another link with some good info on that...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...345&highlight=

SurlyJoe

The ac compressor is a problem. you will need to relocate it. other than that if you have the tools to make mounts take care of that yourself. I used the the ls1 mounts and made frame pedestals to bolt to that.

GearGrinder

iTrader: (1)

have any pictures of what you made? I think I'm goin to go to the shop tomorrow and fab up some plates.

Mizzouri

iTrader: (6)

I am running the Edelbrock plates with the GM clamshell brackets and the alternator has a bit of clearance. There was no need to move them from the stock location on the frame. Also, the oil pan clears easily. Hope this helps.

olblue51

iTrader: (21)

That's good to know... I might just switch back to the stock clamshell mounts. My car was a race car before I had it and came with some moroso solid mounts on the crossmember. I just bought some poly motor mounts but they don't match up with the Morosos as well as I would like. Mizzouri, do you know how much clearance you have between the firewall and the back of the heads?

GearGrinder

iTrader: (1)

yes that great info. Are the Edelbrock plates the same as Transdapt as far as hole locations go?

I assume that with these "plate" style adapters that none of them support the A/C in the original location.

What crossmember did you use Mizzouri?

olblue51

iTrader: (21)

You will have to relocate the A/C with the adapter plates if you do not want to notch the crossmember. The BRP kit clears the A/C compressor from crossmember but you still have to notch for the A/C line... at least with the kit I had anyway.

SurlyJoe

I don't have any pictures. But to use the stock ls1 mounts I just made pedestals that I bolted to the frame that would attach to the ls1 motor mount. My motor still had the mounts and none of the kits are for pontiacs so it made sense to me. Nothing wrong with using the plates.

Mizzouri

iTrader: (6)

With the AC suitcase removed I have 3" on the passenger side and 3.5" on the drivers side.



I am going to use the TH350 crossmember, should be welded up this week.

GearGrinder

iTrader: (1)

I have the clamshell style on my car too, but apparently my car has had everything from pontiac motor to Olds 455 to SBC in it, so I think I'm gonna have to start from scratch almost to get the locations right.