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00 C5 No start issue

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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:49 PM
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Default 00 C5 No start issue

IVe searched and search but could not find anythign relavent but here is the issue iam having.
I was Trying to Track down a low voltage/ no charging issue from P1637 on our C5 earlier today. After checking fuses and tightening any loose i any grounds. It suddenly wouldnt start. Has working lights, etc, but doesnt click, crank, or make any attempt to start. New battery, new alternator, and starter which were tossed on within the past few months.. Any clues on whats going on?

This is a 2000 C5.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by venom346
IVe searched and search but could not find anythign relavent but here is the issue iam having.
I was Trying to Track down a low voltage/ no charging issue from P1637 on our C5 earlier today. After checking fuses and tightening any loose i any grounds. It suddenly wouldnt start. Has working lights, etc, but doesnt click, crank, or make any attempt to start. New battery, new alternator, and starter which were tossed on within the past few months.. Any clues on whats going on?

This is a 2000 C5.
Is the security light flashing? could be a passlock problem. AKA security issue. Try putting a battery jumper/tender on car, turn key on for ten minutes, or until security light goes out,... turn key off for 5 seconds, back on for ten minutes,.. or until light is out,... back off for 5 seconds,... back on for ten minutes,... or until light goes out...

If you had a security problem before, you won
't know.

Other then that,.. is it manual? clutch switch? PCM?..bad battery?
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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MAnual, the clutch switch was changed about 4 mnths ago.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Security light isnt flashing, whaen i first put key in ignition it displays steady for about 5 seconds then goes off. All interior and headlights work, radio works, just that when i turn the key to the run position, nothing...no sound, click, anything.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 01:04 AM
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Updates, I took off the H pipe, Re did the starter wiring, Changed to an optima Red top battery, Even put a resistor in the Vats Wiring....same thing...this is puzzling.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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You have either a wiring problem(pinched wire-no ground-short-etc),..or your PCM has kicked the bucket. Possibly water intrusion? You really need a Tech II to properly diagnose your car man. Otherwise,.. it's only guessing for me. So, heres something that may help somewhat...based on the CODE that you provided, P1637. In the meantime, remove posative and negative cables from battery, place them together for 20 seconds, and reinstall. Try and start.

Circuit Description

The L-terminal circuit from the generator is a discrete circuit (a discrete circuit has no splices and only one source and destination) into the PCM. The PCM applies ignition voltage to the generator L-terminal circuit. A small amount of current flows from this circuit through the generator windings to ground to create a magnetic field which starts the generator process. When the generator is at operating speed and producing voltage, a solid state switch for the L-terminal circuit in the generator opens and the PCM detects that the initial startup current flow has stopped.

The PCM expects to detect low voltage on the L-terminal circuit prior to the generator rotating at operating speed and conversely expects the circuit to be at ignition voltage potential when the generator is operational. When the PCM detects a fault (circuit shorted to ground, or circuit shorted to voltage), the Driver Information Center will display Charging System Fault.

Important:
• Remove any debris from the PCM connector surfaces before servicing the PCM. Inspect the PCM connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the module. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM.
• For any test that requires probing the PCM or a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616 . Using this kit prevents damage to the harness/component terminals
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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V series Tech. Allright, Another morning disection, This time, I loosened the starter, wiggled it ( in case something was stuck ) Loosened the passenger side ground to the block, and re tightenend it. Went to start it. Vroom!, it starts but still has the P1637 issue where its low voltage and not charging the battery. So i went in the garage found the old altenator and installed that on the vehicle. Wahlah. IT works. 13 volts..... everything is fine now.. Its sometimes frustrating tracking down the electrical gremlins but after 2 days of work, its solved.....although, not sure of the cause, I know the new alternator can't be bad
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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had the same problem once but i keept trying it and it started hasn't happend since good luck
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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The alternator can very well be bad.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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Weird... Today it did it again this time it left me stranded for 2 hours......no start.... i found a coupoe guys, and since this is a manual 6 speed, we push started the vehicle and it Started... i drove it home.,. parked it......and attempted to restart it..no start....hmmm any clues Vseriestech?
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by venom346
Weird... Today it did it again this time it left me stranded for 2 hours......no start.... i found a coupoe guys, and since this is a manual 6 speed, we push started the vehicle and it Started... i drove it home.,. parked it......and attempted to restart it..no start....hmmm any clues Vseriestech?
You could have a bad ignition switch.... The contacts inside the ignition switch get burned and then you start having problems like you described.

I agree with V-tech a tech2 really helps in these situations.

Look here. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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Bad ignition,.. bad key,.. pcm.... several maybes. This type of diag, truly needs a scan tool. Otherwise it's anyones guess.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 04:23 AM
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Dealers gonna rape me on this one huh?
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by venom346
Dealers gonna rape me on this one huh?
Not sure where you live in CA, but you might want to see if any local shops have a Tech2.

I was lucky enough to pick one up from some parts trading that I have done over the years. I've got my moneys worth out of it in the last couple of years fixing a few cars on the side + my own vette.

Best tool ever for working on a vette with crazy electrical problems.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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One thing I can think of to do is reset the pcm by turning the key on for an hour. The PCM is supposed to reset if you do this. Disconnecting the battery does not achieve what this does.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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I will try That. AS for a tech to. Im near the SAn Francsico Bay Area. So far none have a tech 2 except for the dealerships.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by venom346
I will try That. AS for a tech to. Im near the SAn Francsico Bay Area. So far none have a tech 2 except for the dealerships.
Your car may very well be in a security shutdown mode that disables the ignition.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by venom346
I will try That. AS for a tech to. Im near the SAn Francsico Bay Area. So far none have a tech 2 except for the dealerships.
Have you tried using your other key to see if it's not a bad chip ?
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Z06
One thing I can think of to do is reset the pcm by turning the key on for an hour. The PCM is supposed to reset if you do this. Disconnecting the battery does not achieve what this does.

Never heard of this method in a GM vehicle. I know of the 10-10-10 passlock relearn,.. which is all security but,... not any reset that you turn the ignition on for an hour and resets. You could easily reset the PCM by putting the negative and positive terminals together for twenty seconds...obviously removed from the battery. That will reset all modules.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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I tried the vats resistor method but. No worky.......
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