tweeter81

Hey guys/gals,

New owner of a used 2002 Corvette Z06 (my dream car) here!

I recently bought a used C5Z and have a couple of newbie questions (I come from the 1st Gen CTS-V world prior to this car, my first Vette). The car is a Vortect blown 6.0 lq4 iron block, stock tranny with LS7 clutch recently installed along with new Redline fluid, short throw shifter of unknown brand, 335 sticky Kuhmos under flared rear fenders, and 100,00 miles on chassis.

1) Since getting the car a few days ago, I've been having weird shifting/transmission issues. I basically can't get into 3rd gear 90% of the time(just completely locked out), and the other 10% of the time it grinds slightly before going in. I can get into all other gears fine (4th will grind for a split second once in awhile too), but the shift effort is very hard and it feels like it is kinda hanging up on all gears. Doesn't feel clean and smooth in neutral either. The seller is completely convinced that it's not a transmission issue (bad 3rd gear, or 3/4 synchro is what I thought), but is related directly to the clutch install and subsequent hardship in bleeding the clutch (he apparently never had tranny issues before). As far as I know the other components may not have been changed (slave, throw out bearing, etc) with the new clutch. A LOT of stuff on the car appears to be very half-assed.

At least the last 10,000 miles or more of the car's 100,000 mile life has been run with a blower on the ls6 first, and then on the 6.0 liter more recently making lots of power, so the tranny could be done anyway.

I really just want to know if a severely out of adjustment clutch assembly or air bubble-ridden hydraulic lines could really cause all my problems. If so, wouldn't it affect all gears? 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, and 6th all engage fairly nice.

My other thought is if the shifter alignment is way out of wack it could cause hard shifting, but to completely lock me out of 3rd gear...I just don't know.

2) If the problem does end up being a bad clutch assembly, I was thinking about going with a McLeod RST Twin with matched steel flywheel and ARP fasteners. Also a speed bleeder. Anything else to install while my mechanic is in there???

Here's a couple of pix to keep you guys awake. Please, any feedback would be greatly appreciated, because since I have no history with this car, nor any history with modern Corvettes, I don't know how it should feel in the first place. Therefore, I'm really at a loss for where even to start in diagnosing this problem.

danieloneil01

Mine grinds going into first and the RST didn't help. I can't help as I'm converting my C5Z to a 4 speed auto. I like everything done to your vette minus the headlights and side molding. I'm probably one of the few that actually like the popup headlights.

sick_tight

I had the exact SAME problem with my 402 C5Z took apart the trans and it looked like something was scorched inside, i think it was my billet keys that were chewed up. which then in turn chewed up 3rd and damaged 4th. I just bought a used stock trans because i have a 3.90 rear. jokes on me though because the used unit is having issues in 2nd and 6th with it popping out intermittently when i shift into them and release the clutch. you wont be able to tell what it is until you tear it down, unless its something like a bad clutch that doesnt fully disengage.

theres a few good writeups if youre going to take out your driveline in your garage. I did it without any help in a couple days.

PuruJones

I had shifting issues for years, started with grinds, then locking out on shift, rebuilt trans, still felt notchy. I started to get grinds downshifting, but not when putting it into gear, but when I already in gear, it'll grind as I release the clutch.
I had a Textralia 6 puck in it, I recently put and RST in, with new slave and added a bleeder. This thing is butter. I can powershift again, So from my experience, it was a disengagement/hydraulic issue. I specifically did the clutch and not go through the trans to verify which end of the drivetrain issue was.

tweeter81

Thank you, and the previous poster for the great info! This cements my decision to go with the RST. I think I'm going with the billet steel flywheel as well because I think my car has plenty of power to spin it up fast and not need the super light aluminum piece.

On another note, I think I'm just going to go crazy and basically have the new clutch/pp/fw/slave cylinder/pilot bearing/master cylinder installed, put new OEM driveshaft giubos and bearings, and finally have the trans built to Stage 2 specs. I'm going to stay with the stock diff/axles and hope that after all the new parts upstream, and my easy shifting (and hardly ever launching hard) driving style that the rear will hold up for a long time. Like I said earlier, the car has 100,000 miles, but I'll probably only put 1,000-2,000 miles on her per year so if I do this rebuild properly, I'll never have to worry about this part of the car again.

PuruJones

That should cover it. I'm I'll get a trans/diff brace, granted that bill is already up there.
If money was concern, i'll skip the master and do the Brace, you can always do the master once you have a remote bleeder.
I went with the aluminum flywheel, I had went from OEM, to 18lbs, now to 12 flywheel. with the 18lb w/ 6 puck, to RST w/ aluminum. It went from 43lbs to 34, drives like stock to me now, but it's all personal preference.

PuruJones

That should cover it. I'm I'll get a trans/diff brace, granted that bill is already up there.
If money was concern, i'll skip the master and do the Brace, you can always do the master once you have a remote bleeder.
I went with the aluminum flywheel, I had went from OEM, to 18lbs, now to 12 flywheel. with the 18lb w/ 6 puck, to RST w/ aluminum. It went from 43lbs to 34, drives like stock to me now, but it's all personal preference.

427zm

iTrader: (9)

I too have heard good things about the RST clutch. I myself am installing the Katech LS9X in mine. My father has one in his C6Z and it's the beez neez. Just a suggestion if you're going to rebuild it, do it right and do it once. RPM transmissions. Talk to Rodney. This is the level you'll want with your power. http://m.rpmtransmissions.com/levelvt56.html

You do this and you won't worry about your tranny for the rest of your time w/ the Z!

I completely agree on the diff. If it breaks, it breaks. There's no gain from a built diff, actually due to it being unsprung weight, if it gets heavier from being built you'd lose a little HP. Regardless, until it starts to whine (worn gear set), or breaks (from hard launching) leave it be. I'd also suggest not getting a Trans brace. From my friends that have had them and taken them off due to serious vibrations; to my builder who told me they don't stop a diff or tranny case from cracking when installed, they're not wise money spent. That's Pfadt or ECS. Zero prevention either way.


BTW, love the stance of you Z! What brakes do you have on it? Are those PFC's? Looks like a nice BBK!

lilgbz28

Bud talk to Mr Rick Kim of rkt-56 performance. He will take care of you and now's vettes inside and out.

tweeter81

Thanks, sir! I agree on the perfect stance, the car has such presence and has a great combination of low ride height (but not slammed) and very aggressive tires that poke out just enough.

See this link for more on the car:

http://http://forums.corvetteforum.c...-delivery.html

The brakes are from a German company, MoVit. I had never heard of the brand before seeing them on this car, but it has been overseas for part of its life so that is why it had these weird brakes. Rotors are 396x36 front and 342x28 rear.

The braking performance is ridiculous, throw you through the windshield type stuff.

ysb02

Torque tube stuff is a good idea, you seem to have the right direction on where to go.

At 100k+ that t56 is due for a rebuild.

tweeter81

I've decided to go with a Stage 2 rebuild through C5racer.com/c6performance.com. The price for the upgraded and rebuilt trans seems pretty good and the shipping is also reasonable. Also, the work comes with a 2 yr or 24,000 mile warranty, so that's good.

Does anybody have any feedback on this company? They seem reputable, but I'm just in the beginning stages of getting some answers from them about rebuild timeframe, shipping, etc. So far they've been a little hard to get ahold of, but I'm hoping I can get the answers I need within a day or two and then I should be able pay online, and then have my shop ship the trans to them possibly by the end of next week or the following Monday.

I'm very excited to get all my big mechanical issues solved with this new (used) car and actually get to drive it in a month or so, when it warms up here.

danieloneil01

FYI, I pulled my driveline and the <8k mile clutch turned out to be a bad slave/pilot bearing. I tracked mine at the drag strip and I slipped it like a virgin to hook. Pictures of it are in my link below.

tweeter81

A little update:

Switched things up a bit and went with an RPM Level 5 Trans rebuild. As long as the clutch (McLeod RST) and all other components get installed correctly, I'm hoping that the new trans will work smooth as butter.

The trans will get to my mechanic in about 2.5 weeks, so as long as all my other parts get here as well, I should have a badass Vette on the road in about 3 weeks!

Silver408z

iTrader: (1)

I have an RST in my car. It is the best clutch I have ever had. Not saying its the best, because that can just be an opion but I really like it.

tweeter81

Awesome, that is a relief to know! Any other thoughts on the clutch, does it chatter, how is pedal pressure, etc?

ZOSL0W

Yea I had that problem to thought it was the throw out bearing so I changed it still same problem so took my car apart again and looked and my pilot bearing was shot there was no bearing left. Then I also got a tick master cylinder because of the cam and monster level 3 clutch the stock one want pushing enough fluid for high rpm shifts and after that never had another problem

BigBirdZ06

been through 2 t56 builds grinding already at 550hp guess I should quit wasting money and go RPM or Tick tranny