Any ideas? 1233 is the RF Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Open or Short. Replaced the RF Wheel Bearing Assy, cleaned all contacts/checked all grounds, its still popping up.

What next? EBCM?

 

Hmm..............

....................

Here goes slippy...

One of the following conditions exists for 0.02 seconds:

• A short to voltage - the wheel speed sensor signal circuit and wheel speed sensor return circuit voltages are both greater than 4.25 volts.

• A short to ground - the wheel speed sensor signal circuit and wheel speed sensor return circuit voltages are both less than 0.75 volts.

• An open - the wheel speed sensor signal circuit voltage is greater than 4.25 volts and wheel speed sensor return circuit voltage is less than 0.75 volts.

If the ABS indicator is ON only during moist environmental conditions (rain, snow, vehicle wash, etc.), inspect the wheel speed sensor wiring for signs of water intrusion. If the DTC is not current, clear all DTCs and simulate the effects of water intrusion by using the following:

Spray the suspected area with a 5 percent saltwater solution. To create a 5 percent saltwater solution, add 2 teaspoons of salt to 354 ml(12oz) of water.
Test drive the vehicle over various road surfaces (bumps, turns, etc.) above 40 km/h (25 mph) for at least 30 seconds.
If the DTC returns, replace the suspected wheel speed sensor or repair the wheel speed sensor wiring.
Rinse the area thoroughly when completed.


Since you already replaced the sensor itself,..it has to one of the two. you say the wireing is good soo... one more time, check the wiring,...if there is no breaks in wires,..nothing visual.... then one MUST assume one of two things.

You either have some faulty pin's (terminal connectors/date/power/etc) at your EBCM,...or you have a bad EBCM.

If you PIN drag to test at the EBCM,...you better have the PROPER tools for the exact size pin's. Otherwise, you may not realize it but, you could wallow(hone) out the female side of the pin,..causing a bad connection.

Hows my typing now, beotch?

 

Pretty common to have the wiring chewed up from a tossed belts etc. The wiring runs right across the front of the crank pully. Usually I see it tore up just left of the balancer (pass side) where it runs to the clip mounted to the cradle by the A-arm.

Dave

 

True, easily accessable with the car in the air. Should also be able to look down in the engine compartment and see it on top of the cradle. Should be by itself.

 

Ok, so youre marginally more acceptable to me now.


I havent had time to get back to this, but Im leaning towards a problem with the EBCM. I'll take a crack at it this weekend.

 

Well I got to Thank this guy

After checking all the grounds and reading alot of Ecbm Module stuff

I read this and remembered that my car threw part of a belt,

And guess what, It hit the harness, But the problem did'nt show up for 6mos

The break in the conduit allowed the wires to be exposed and eventually they came apart


Once again

A big Thanks to my friend !

 

Good info above for sure.

Another thing that I have seen drive people crazy is the ABS cable between the wheel bearing and the wiring harness. If you have a code come up you can swap the LF harness with the RF harness, if the code changes sides with the harness's then you have a bad harness, not a bad wheel bearing or ABS module. Just another easy DIY tip.

 

...lol...hoping dude got this fixed,..since it dates back to 2008.

I think pakisho sold his vette and took up nude male nude dancing anyways. like, dude on dude.

 

Had the same thing happen to me. I switched out the EBCM and that fixed it.