Stock ls6 motor traps 130+
04-26-2014, 10:35 AM
#281
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Im surprised I have never seen this thread... Im going to have to call huge huge huge BS here. A E/I C5Z is not going to run those time in any lifetime unless the car weighs 2000lbs, Even if you are the best driver on earth the car just doesnt have that kind of power to pull it that hard... I have a fully forged H/C LS7 making 600/575 through a RPM Stage 6 4L65E swap, 3200 stall, Line Lock and Trans brake. Not to mention I have a Stage 3 RPM C6Z diff, Full coilover suspension ect and im weighing in @ 3075lbs without driver... The best I have ran was a 10.1 @ 134 mph with a 1.51 60' withouth the trans brake leaving off the stall.... There is no way you are only running 4mph behind me and only aroun .6 seconds.. lol
Last edited by vetteboy2k; 04-26-2014 at 11:51 AM.
04-26-2014, 10:51 AM
#282
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The car made 413 ish on a Mustang dyno.
It's a race car chassis.
It ran 10.0@135 in +200 da on a 1.438
The da last week was around -1800 . I just couldn't get to the track.
Last edited by vetteboy2k; 04-26-2014 at 12:07 PM.
04-26-2014, 11:25 AM
#283
I have run up against this many times over the years with other platforms... if you don't have money in your budget, skill to build/fabricate , or desire to be financially upside down in a car over expensive builds but want to be fast you need to pay attention to details and guys like vetteboy2k & HioSSilver from reading their posts pay real close attention to details. Best example I have seen went high 11's with under a grand total in car including purchase and mods and is repeatable ( car was a turd)
Its things like going when theres good racing weather (DA) for your area- if you have wind its likely not as good a da as you will get , clear/still with radiational cooling at night is usually when you get mineshaft weather , taking fewer passes with proper cool downs to keep heat soak away unless the track is empty and you can keep moving ,hood up when car isn't running , shut off in staging lanes unless you need to move forward , weight removal , attention to fuel level , choosing mods that work well together and add the most bang for the buck , making a car transfer weight and hook straight , having enough tire but not too much just enough to hook without adding extra resistance , light skinny front wheels with high pressure provided you can still warm tires ,gearing/tire height matched to achieve max rpm at the traps , knowing how to properly shallow stage , lining up with the groove in the track before staging with sightline up your lane past the traps to keep steering corrections to a minimum , enough seat time in the car to have the passes slow down to where they seem uneventful (quickest passes feel like you didn't do much).
Seems like cheating/a lot of bs to go through to some but to others its part of the challenge to do more with less
which is why I have been lurking in this thread from the beginning
Instead of calling a guy like this out or calling bs learn what he is doing to achieve his results and apply it to your build and join the overachievers club
Its things like going when theres good racing weather (DA) for your area- if you have wind its likely not as good a da as you will get , clear/still with radiational cooling at night is usually when you get mineshaft weather , taking fewer passes with proper cool downs to keep heat soak away unless the track is empty and you can keep moving ,hood up when car isn't running , shut off in staging lanes unless you need to move forward , weight removal , attention to fuel level , choosing mods that work well together and add the most bang for the buck , making a car transfer weight and hook straight , having enough tire but not too much just enough to hook without adding extra resistance , light skinny front wheels with high pressure provided you can still warm tires ,gearing/tire height matched to achieve max rpm at the traps , knowing how to properly shallow stage , lining up with the groove in the track before staging with sightline up your lane past the traps to keep steering corrections to a minimum , enough seat time in the car to have the passes slow down to where they seem uneventful (quickest passes feel like you didn't do much).
Seems like cheating/a lot of bs to go through to some but to others its part of the challenge to do more with less
which is why I have been lurking in this thread from the beginning Instead of calling a guy like this out or calling bs learn what he is doing to achieve his results and apply it to your build and join the overachievers club
04-26-2014, 11:58 AM
#284
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My car is by no means the fastest car out there. I have owned many track worthy cars and know what it takes to accomplish these times. My car is right on par with any similar build in 2500+ DA and is tuned and driven to the best it can possibly be. Not trying to be a dick either, But please explain your logic to where this is the norm where a car that has a thousand similar builds can seem to muster the mass average of a mid 11 second passes at best by some of the best corvette drivers on the boards. Yet another guy can run almost a 9.99 in a car that should be in the 11's.. Doesn't make sense for a stock small cube shortblock LS6... This car cant be making more then 415whp at most... Now granted this was probably done in -3000 DA and with a tail wind of 30mph but it still Mathematically doesn't make sense, and should be questioned with a bit of skepticism given what these cars do...
I'd rather help other vette/ls guys get down the strip with some of the knowledge I've gained over the years.
04-26-2014, 12:19 PM
#286
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If you actually believe this you must be some kind of idiot or something... Funny thing is if this were actually true this guys car would not only be in LSX mags as the fastest Exhaust/Intake only C5Z on earth but he would also be a world renowned internet forum sensation whos claim to fame wouldn't be 1 thread. Get your head out of your *** and when you actually get seat time with several hundred passes and know what it takes to get a car into the 10's,9's,8's ect come talk to me, Actually you just let me know when you have at least 1 singe digit pass under your belt... These stories come and go over the years and all sound pretty much the same.... This reminds me of A guys thread on the GTO forum whos stock GTO which everyone knows are 105mph traps. Was running 114mph and running bottom 12's... You obviously had the same **** heads sweating it just like you do here hahahaha...
The real feat here is how this guy has managed to break the laws of physics....
Seems nobody on CF has ever heard about this car otherwise it would be here...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...fast-list.html
The real feat here is how this guy has managed to break the laws of physics....
Seems nobody on CF has ever heard about this car otherwise it would be here...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...fast-list.html
1) It's not a fair comparison between my car and the others on the list despite the fact that my car fits the criteria to be on the list
2) I don't care enough
However, here on Ls1 tech in the drag racing results section my car is very comparable to the fastest F-body car on the "Stock Internals" list.
And that's why I posted results here and on the SI list which had given me some motivation years back to see how I could fair against some of these cars.
06-24-2014, 09:35 AM
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I have run up against this many times over the years with other platforms... if you don't have money in your budget, skill to build/fabricate , or desire to be financially upside down in a car over expensive builds but want to be fast you need to pay attention to details and guys like vetteboy2k & HioSSilver from reading their posts pay real close attention to details. Best example I have seen went high 11's with under a grand total in car including purchase and mods and is repeatable ( car was a turd)
Its things like going when theres good racing weather (DA) for your area- if you have wind its likely not as good a da as you will get , clear/still with radiational cooling at night is usually when you get mineshaft weather , taking fewer passes with proper cool downs to keep heat soak away unless the track is empty and you can keep moving ,hood up when car isn't running , shut off in staging lanes unless you need to move forward , weight removal , attention to fuel level , choosing mods that work well together and add the most bang for the buck , making a car transfer weight and hook straight , having enough tire but not too much just enough to hook without adding extra resistance , light skinny front wheels with high pressure provided you can still warm tires ,gearing/tire height matched to achieve max rpm at the traps , knowing how to properly shallow stage , lining up with the groove in the track before staging with sightline up your lane past the traps to keep steering corrections to a minimum , enough seat time in the car to have the passes slow down to where they seem uneventful (quickest passes feel like you didn't do much).
Seems like cheating/a lot of bs to go through to some but to others its part of the challenge to do more with less which is why I have been lurking in this thread from the beginning
Instead of calling a guy like this out or calling bs learn what he is doing to achieve his results and apply it to your build and join the overachievers club
Its things like going when theres good racing weather (DA) for your area- if you have wind its likely not as good a da as you will get , clear/still with radiational cooling at night is usually when you get mineshaft weather , taking fewer passes with proper cool downs to keep heat soak away unless the track is empty and you can keep moving ,hood up when car isn't running , shut off in staging lanes unless you need to move forward , weight removal , attention to fuel level , choosing mods that work well together and add the most bang for the buck , making a car transfer weight and hook straight , having enough tire but not too much just enough to hook without adding extra resistance , light skinny front wheels with high pressure provided you can still warm tires ,gearing/tire height matched to achieve max rpm at the traps , knowing how to properly shallow stage , lining up with the groove in the track before staging with sightline up your lane past the traps to keep steering corrections to a minimum , enough seat time in the car to have the passes slow down to where they seem uneventful (quickest passes feel like you didn't do much).
Seems like cheating/a lot of bs to go through to some but to others its part of the challenge to do more with less
which is why I have been lurking in this thread from the beginning Instead of calling a guy like this out or calling bs learn what he is doing to achieve his results and apply it to your build and join the overachievers club
08-01-2014, 09:02 PM
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You thinkin bout putting a ls6 in your race car heater?
FYI....If I'm not mistaken that vette and I made the same hp before I changed rockers. Both of us dyno'd on a dyno dynamics and made 413whp. I run super unleaded....sheetz....citgo....whatever.
Hopefully vetteboy will correct me if I'm wrong.
FYI....If I'm not mistaken that vette and I made the same hp before I changed rockers. Both of us dyno'd on a dyno dynamics and made 413whp. I run super unleaded....sheetz....citgo....whatever.
Hopefully vetteboy will correct me if I'm wrong.
We are likely going to run an event in the fall and it allows a cam so we are going to run cam only for a few months.
08-01-2014, 09:48 PM
#293
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Read the first five pages then called it quits. Lol great running vette. Hope you got the 60' down, that vette is running strong! Idk bout others but if a new 5.0 with bolt ons, gears, stall and tune can run low 11s n high 10s idk why people wouldn't think the same with your car! Granted yours is a manual but fact is taking weight out (especially rotational weight) helps a lot, gears can be the deciding factor in running 11s or 10s ive seen it happen! Plus the right suspension and trans mods. You obviously spent a lot of money and time to get this thing running right, keep it up man your doing good!
08-01-2014, 09:54 PM
#294
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I have run up against this many times over the years with other platforms... if you don't have money in your budget, skill to build/fabricate , or desire to be financially upside down in a car over expensive builds but want to be fast you need to pay attention to details and guys like vetteboy2k & HioSSilver from reading their posts pay real close attention to details. Best example I have seen went high 11's with under a grand total in car including purchase and mods and is repeatable ( car was a turd)
Its things like going when theres good racing weather (DA) for your area- if you have wind its likely not as good a da as you will get , clear/still with radiational cooling at night is usually when you get mineshaft weather , taking fewer passes with proper cool downs to keep heat soak away unless the track is empty and you can keep moving ,hood up when car isn't running , shut off in staging lanes unless you need to move forward , weight removal , attention to fuel level , choosing mods that work well together and add the most bang for the buck , making a car transfer weight and hook straight , having enough tire but not too much just enough to hook without adding extra resistance , light skinny front wheels with high pressure provided you can still warm tires ,gearing/tire height matched to achieve max rpm at the traps , knowing how to properly shallow stage , lining up with the groove in the track before staging with sightline up your lane past the traps to keep steering corrections to a minimum , enough seat time in the car to have the passes slow down to where they seem uneventful (quickest passes feel like you didn't do much).
Seems like cheating/a lot of bs to go through to some but to others its part of the challenge to do more with less which is why I have been lurking in this thread from the beginning
Instead of calling a guy like this out or calling bs learn what he is doing to achieve his results and apply it to your build and join the overachievers club
Its things like going when theres good racing weather (DA) for your area- if you have wind its likely not as good a da as you will get , clear/still with radiational cooling at night is usually when you get mineshaft weather , taking fewer passes with proper cool downs to keep heat soak away unless the track is empty and you can keep moving ,hood up when car isn't running , shut off in staging lanes unless you need to move forward , weight removal , attention to fuel level , choosing mods that work well together and add the most bang for the buck , making a car transfer weight and hook straight , having enough tire but not too much just enough to hook without adding extra resistance , light skinny front wheels with high pressure provided you can still warm tires ,gearing/tire height matched to achieve max rpm at the traps , knowing how to properly shallow stage , lining up with the groove in the track before staging with sightline up your lane past the traps to keep steering corrections to a minimum , enough seat time in the car to have the passes slow down to where they seem uneventful (quickest passes feel like you didn't do much).
Seems like cheating/a lot of bs to go through to some but to others its part of the challenge to do more with less
which is why I have been lurking in this thread from the beginningInstead of calling a guy like this out or calling bs learn what he is doing to achieve his results and apply it to your build and join the overachievers club
08-04-2014, 03:23 AM
#296
I am freaking impressed.... I knew the stock z06 sets up was the shiznit.. I always thought so.. I dont know why, its the bomb... It wastes the 427 drop valve junks. Put a blower on, and I am even more impressed with them.. My buddy has a stock ls6 crate in his 02 z, d1sc, 8 pounds, he runs 10.20 at 140 all day... I cant believe it.
I was so impressed, I built 383 stock zo6 set up. 9.81 comp, 317 heads, z06 cam.. You know what the motor dyno'ed.. 465 horse with a whopping 498 ftlbs... Yep, more torque than a 427 junk and more power than the ls3s... The heads are bone stock, it did that with a carb on the dyno, fresh motor... I have it in the car now, I have a p1sc-1, only can get 5 pounds out of it now... I ran 135-40 in 4 gear... Thats my quarter run.. I took it out the other night to see what it can do, first time I took it on a entire run. I almost freaking killed myself. I never expected it to run that... The motor now has 500 miles on it, and its breaking in; getting faster by the day..
I ordered a pulley set, to max the blower out, to get around at least 12/13 pound on my blower.. That should be here in a week or so... I dont know what this mother will do... I am hoping 700 rwhp, but who freaking knows, it could go way over... With all you guys getting 740 on the 347s .. If I had a d1, I would prob get 800 plus..
Those GM engineers knew what they where doing with the ls6.. Its by far, hands down the champ of modern small blocks.. I say modern cause I have a 70 Ta challenger, 340 6 pack... I dyno'ed that 70 motor... That mother did 414 horse, with 450 ftlbs.. On what cam you say, a baby 470 lift.. That 340 is all the motor the ls6 is with its fast burn stock Ta heads.. I digress... Yes its possible, the ls6 is by far the best modern small block ever made.. Never under estimate them, especially if you set up your car to leave, and to drop it at 5k rpm..
If you compare my 383 to the ls3, I made more power than it, and those heads flow. I am sure, I could have done 500 hp, with a different cam, but my torque would not be 500... I rather have torque, I build my motors for it.. Also, I can still get 27 miles to a gallon.. I run stock back exhaust also, the car sounds bone stock, the way I like it... I have a collectors edition 20002 with 16k miles on in.. Its my baby... And its in the 130+ range on 5 pounds of boost...
My buddy had a z06, stock.. I had my stock motor in the car, it made 430, 430 at the rear, on the blower. I only inched him, by a little... His car was show room stock. Do the ls6 motors move, you better believe they do...
My 900 horse turbo set up never materialized. I had to sell the turbo set up, and I decided to keep the blower set up. I actually traded the set up, to a shop, to put in my new motor, and to put in a new front tubular sub-frame in. They did a lot to the car. I dont regret it.. However, next year, I will prob upgrade to a new blower.. But, I have nitrous for the great equalizer, if I need it.. Regardless, I am getting 800 horse power, one way or another.. And it will sound stock and drive stock, until I hit it.. That's is what I like, coming from turbo Buick's and trans ams..
I was so impressed, I built 383 stock zo6 set up. 9.81 comp, 317 heads, z06 cam.. You know what the motor dyno'ed.. 465 horse with a whopping 498 ftlbs... Yep, more torque than a 427 junk and more power than the ls3s... The heads are bone stock, it did that with a carb on the dyno, fresh motor... I have it in the car now, I have a p1sc-1, only can get 5 pounds out of it now... I ran 135-40 in 4 gear... Thats my quarter run.. I took it out the other night to see what it can do, first time I took it on a entire run. I almost freaking killed myself. I never expected it to run that... The motor now has 500 miles on it, and its breaking in; getting faster by the day..
I ordered a pulley set, to max the blower out, to get around at least 12/13 pound on my blower.. That should be here in a week or so... I dont know what this mother will do... I am hoping 700 rwhp, but who freaking knows, it could go way over... With all you guys getting 740 on the 347s .. If I had a d1, I would prob get 800 plus..
Those GM engineers knew what they where doing with the ls6.. Its by far, hands down the champ of modern small blocks.. I say modern cause I have a 70 Ta challenger, 340 6 pack... I dyno'ed that 70 motor... That mother did 414 horse, with 450 ftlbs.. On what cam you say, a baby 470 lift.. That 340 is all the motor the ls6 is with its fast burn stock Ta heads.. I digress... Yes its possible, the ls6 is by far the best modern small block ever made.. Never under estimate them, especially if you set up your car to leave, and to drop it at 5k rpm..
If you compare my 383 to the ls3, I made more power than it, and those heads flow. I am sure, I could have done 500 hp, with a different cam, but my torque would not be 500... I rather have torque, I build my motors for it.. Also, I can still get 27 miles to a gallon.. I run stock back exhaust also, the car sounds bone stock, the way I like it... I have a collectors edition 20002 with 16k miles on in.. Its my baby... And its in the 130+ range on 5 pounds of boost...
My buddy had a z06, stock.. I had my stock motor in the car, it made 430, 430 at the rear, on the blower. I only inched him, by a little... His car was show room stock. Do the ls6 motors move, you better believe they do...
My 900 horse turbo set up never materialized. I had to sell the turbo set up, and I decided to keep the blower set up. I actually traded the set up, to a shop, to put in my new motor, and to put in a new front tubular sub-frame in. They did a lot to the car. I dont regret it.. However, next year, I will prob upgrade to a new blower.. But, I have nitrous for the great equalizer, if I need it.. Regardless, I am getting 800 horse power, one way or another.. And it will sound stock and drive stock, until I hit it.. That's is what I like, coming from turbo Buick's and trans ams..
Last edited by stage274; 08-04-2014 at 03:40 AM. Reason: To add...
08-04-2014, 02:06 PM
#298
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1.438
4.129
6.396@108.25mph
8.360
10.028@135.13mph
It didn't back half anything unusual. The whole 1/8 mile to 1/4 mile mph thing with an M6/M12 depends alot on your 3-4 shift point.
The car is lighter than your car without driver.
It made 413/383 on a Mustang dyno.
08-04-2014, 08:05 PM
#299
Your 60 foot is very impressive... I am hopping to get 1.6 with my 6 speed.. Like I said, my car made 430/430 before the new ls6 383. I suspect its 530 on the 5 pounds of boost.. Your 60 foot is a result of less mass on the car.. To me, the c5 z06 is the best vette ever made, because of the weight. Its also easy on the drive train.. Honestly it does not matter how much power you have to the rear.. Its the set up.. Running 10.0 on a 414 rear wheel horse power is awesome.. What is impressive is the ls6 z 28 on here.. 11.2 at 129.... He is 750 more pounds than you...
My car is fast now, I just cant wait, to crank up the boost to 13.... Its going to be a whole other animal.. Whats funny, is you will prob still beat me... LOL!!!!!!!!!!
Your car is definably dialed in... Listen, I knew this guy who had a stock dialed in W-30, olds 442 auto car, turbo 400. His 60s where 1.45.. He ran 11.45 at 113 miles and hour.... 130s is a 10.0 mile an hour if you can leave, and you are leaving... 113 mile an hour can be 11.50, if you can leave, if you have the enough torque to leave, without bogging...
My car is fast now, I just cant wait, to crank up the boost to 13.... Its going to be a whole other animal.. Whats funny, is you will prob still beat me... LOL!!!!!!!!!!
Your car is definably dialed in... Listen, I knew this guy who had a stock dialed in W-30, olds 442 auto car, turbo 400. His 60s where 1.45.. He ran 11.45 at 113 miles and hour.... 130s is a 10.0 mile an hour if you can leave, and you are leaving... 113 mile an hour can be 11.50, if you can leave, if you have the enough torque to leave, without bogging...
08-04-2014, 08:19 PM
#300
I read an article about parasitic losses. That if you have a bigger rear end, and a slipping stall, it can eat more than 25% of you power.. On the vette, on a stock rear end, and the m6.. He is prob losing somewhere between 8-10% for drive train loss..
Those stalls start loosing big power in the higher rpm range. And if you have a 9 inch, the way the gear is set up, it eats the most power out of all rear ends...
The more hp you have also, the bigger the losses... I suspect his losses are around 8 to 10%.. He is loosing 40 to 50 hp, while you can be losing up to 75 to 100, depending what you have for a rear end.. Now on a lock up converter those losses are less, but still significant..