Didnt gain anywhere near what I expected
#1
Didnt gain anywhere near what I expected
Ok I got a 2000 t/a I did a h/c with bolt ons, the car had a t56 and 3.42's stock suspension ect. In the 1/8th I ran a 7.85 at 80 missing 3rd, all of the other runs it either spun or bogged but trapped 94mph. That was 2 years ago, since then I removed the a/c, front sway bar, qa1s on the front, all spherical rod ends in the back, short tq arm, 12 bolt with 4.33's, 3" xpipe with flowmaster super 44s, th350 with fuddle 4k convertor and a trans brake, big and littles with a m/t dr 275 60 r 15. The results from yesterday are as follows.
60-1.68 no spin just barley hopped the front hoops off the pavement
330-4.89
1/8-7.56@91.99
1000-9.86
1/4-11.84@111.97 it was banging the rev limiter for the last 300ft
I was expecting a little better gain out of it, also didn't think I would be banging the limiter at 112mph
60-1.68 no spin just barley hopped the front hoops off the pavement
330-4.89
1/8-7.56@91.99
1000-9.86
1/4-11.84@111.97 it was banging the rev limiter for the last 300ft
I was expecting a little better gain out of it, also didn't think I would be banging the limiter at 112mph
#3
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What's your rev limiter? What size tire you running?
With 4.33's (why are you running those gears with a TH350??) and stock height tire...112 mph would be around 6300 rpms IF you had a direct rotational connection between the engine and transmission. Since it's an auto that's not being locked up at wot on the top end, you'll have some slippage and probably hit 112mph somewhere around 6800 rpm, or maybe more. Fuddle has a REALLY BAD rep here on ls1tech, could be your problem. New converter? Used?
Either way..WAAAAAYYY too much gear unless you're running a 30"+ tire...which you aren't without crazy modification to the wheel well. May wanna check that converter, since it's a fuddle. Also, rule of thumb is that a manual will usually trap a little higher than an auto in the same car, but the auto has a better/easier potential to launch better and get better times. So don't worry about trap speed, pay attention to ET. Was the DA similar to your runs two years ago? And, those super 44's flow horribly, much better off with a straight through design muffler, or if you're really stuck on flowmaster, get a set of one chamber mufflers. There's A LOT left on the table with your car, the parts just really don't add up.
With 4.33's (why are you running those gears with a TH350??) and stock height tire...112 mph would be around 6300 rpms IF you had a direct rotational connection between the engine and transmission. Since it's an auto that's not being locked up at wot on the top end, you'll have some slippage and probably hit 112mph somewhere around 6800 rpm, or maybe more. Fuddle has a REALLY BAD rep here on ls1tech, could be your problem. New converter? Used?
Either way..WAAAAAYYY too much gear unless you're running a 30"+ tire...which you aren't without crazy modification to the wheel well. May wanna check that converter, since it's a fuddle. Also, rule of thumb is that a manual will usually trap a little higher than an auto in the same car, but the auto has a better/easier potential to launch better and get better times. So don't worry about trap speed, pay attention to ET. Was the DA similar to your runs two years ago? And, those super 44's flow horribly, much better off with a straight through design muffler, or if you're really stuck on flowmaster, get a set of one chamber mufflers. There's A LOT left on the table with your car, the parts just really don't add up.
#4
275 60r15 with a 4k stall converter. The converter was bought new back when they had a good name here lol. I thought the limiter was set at either 6800 or 7 but didn't have a chance to check it today. DA was pretty close, it was different track though.
It has a pcmforless tune
It has a pcmforless tune
Last edited by rocketman442; 04-28-2013 at 09:26 PM.
#7
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I've always noticed on ls1tech that people seem to blame the tune way too often, when its the culprit maybe 1 out of 10 times. In your situation it's quite obvious that it's not the problem, when there's so muh other things being left on the table.
And try to do some research ito the date you were last at the track and what kind of weather it was. Even though you may remember it "feeling" the same two years ago.....it was two years ago. And its the same as a butt dyno, how it "feels" and what the actual data shows can be way off. Youd be surprised how conditions that are 1000ft different "feel" similar.
My recommendation would be as follows:
1. Get rid of those 4.33's. Get a set of 3.50's, or if you do any kind of street driving with car, maybe get something even lower (numerically). I can't imagine how bad that thing is screaming at anything more than 55mph.
2. Send the converter off to a reputable shop just to have them check it out and maybe rebuild it, or just get a new/good converter from somewhere reputable.
3. Trash the super 44's for something like a set of magnaflows or something with a straight through design. I'm willing to bet the 3" exhaust isn't mandrel bent, so the combination of less than ideal bends and those mufflers are holding back some HP. Willing to bet there's 5-10hp in getting rid of those mufflers.
And try to do some research ito the date you were last at the track and what kind of weather it was. Even though you may remember it "feeling" the same two years ago.....it was two years ago. And its the same as a butt dyno, how it "feels" and what the actual data shows can be way off. Youd be surprised how conditions that are 1000ft different "feel" similar.
My recommendation would be as follows:
1. Get rid of those 4.33's. Get a set of 3.50's, or if you do any kind of street driving with car, maybe get something even lower (numerically). I can't imagine how bad that thing is screaming at anything more than 55mph.
2. Send the converter off to a reputable shop just to have them check it out and maybe rebuild it, or just get a new/good converter from somewhere reputable.
3. Trash the super 44's for something like a set of magnaflows or something with a straight through design. I'm willing to bet the 3" exhaust isn't mandrel bent, so the combination of less than ideal bends and those mufflers are holding back some HP. Willing to bet there's 5-10hp in getting rid of those mufflers.
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#10
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Too much gear to start with, also need to lock the converter just before the 1/8th. Just a bad combo is all, imo. Need to make sure your cam, stall, and gear are a good match. Screw two of those components up and its not going to run anywhere near its potential, mismatch all three..well.
#14
I think 3.50 gears would be all wrong in the other direction. I got a killer deal on the rear with 4.33 gears already installed. The car gets street driven but its never on the highway though. I really think the convertor is the biggest issue. The exhaust is mandrel bent, Any recommendations on a 4" thick muffler that isn't mind numbingly loud?
#16
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I think 3.50 gears would be all wrong in the other direction. I got a killer deal on the rear with 4.33 gears already installed. The car gets street driven but its never on the highway though. I really think the convertor is the biggest issue. The exhaust is mandrel bent, Any recommendations on a 4" thick muffler that isn't mind numbingly loud?
I would suggest magnaflows 4x9 ovals as replacements. Had them on my old black SS with 3" true duals and an ms4 cam. Your problem with noise is going to be more due to a loose converter with that gear ratio, it's always going to be screaming since you don't have overdrive and lockup, and a 4000 stall. My setup was pretty tame at idle and cruising when locked up. But wot and heavy acceleration, it screamed.
#18
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.....you have a 4,000 stall and trans brake. You could run 2.73's and still pull 1.5's if you had everything setup right. Gear ratio is much less important in an auto off the line once you get a nice converter in there. Plenty of people getting better 60's than you with less of a stall, less hp, and numerically lower rear gear.
#19
.....you have a 4,000 stall and trans brake. You could run 2.73's and still pull 1.5's if you had everything setup right. Gear ratio is much less important in an auto off the line once you get a nice converter in there. Plenty of people getting better 60's than you with less of a stall, less hp, and numerically lower rear gear.