m/t radials work well on transbrake and heavy street car!
11-18-2006, 10:49 PM
#21
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my understanding is those tires work better when you hit them harder. they're sidewall is soft, my buddys 8 sec was put on the bumper too on a 8 sec nitrous car.
11-19-2006, 07:00 AM
#23
Originally Posted by ATVracr
Be careful with the Tbrake and the spray with those tires.... Oil pans , headers and tranny cases are $$$$$ 
I put mine on the bumper off the foot brake .. The Tbrake would be BAD!
The tires like to be hit hard ... we tried leaving and bring the spray in 10' out and they would spin ... so we hit it right out of the hole and they hook like a mother.
Invest in some travel limiters now and save your *** bars might be a good idea also.
My car is 3665 with me in it. TH400 , 12 bolt , 370 iron block. Cut some LOW 1.3's at the pump gas drags with the 325/50's
Pretty sure we can get it in the 1.2's with the limiters on the car.
Like I said be careful with the Tbrake ... Tbrake + N20 + MT DR's = Bumper dragging
I put mine on the bumper off the foot brake .. The Tbrake would be BAD!
The tires like to be hit hard ... we tried leaving and bring the spray in 10' out and they would spin ... so we hit it right out of the hole and they hook like a mother.
Invest in some travel limiters now and save your *** bars might be a good idea also.
My car is 3665 with me in it. TH400 , 12 bolt , 370 iron block. Cut some LOW 1.3's at the pump gas drags with the 325/50's
Pretty sure we can get it in the 1.2's with the limiters on the car.
Like I said be careful with the Tbrake ... Tbrake + N20 + MT DR's = Bumper dragging
Did you have them screwed to the rim? I knwo my qtp's are moving ALOT every run and they aren't screwed.. I already have it set in my mind that screws are 100% needed at this point... just curious if guys are screwing the radials too.
11-19-2006, 09:17 PM
#25
Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
Awesome John thats cool. I wonder how they work on a stick car??
They work good on a stick car if you can figure them out. Ive cut some 1.4s on them with only 8 passes out with the car, the little 275/60s gettin it in.
11-20-2006, 09:19 AM
#26
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I love the tire. I cut numerous 1.50 60's, in a heavy car, 3559, on my all motor runs. That was with a nitrous convertor! That was leaving off the T-brake. I didn't get a chance to spray the car, but I'm thinking that I should start with some small pills, like 150 HP, and work my way up from there, tuning the suspension, to keep it off the bumper.
I run the 325 tire, on my street rims, so I dont have those screwed. I dont think most guys will need to screw the rim, on a street application, because the tire takes more air than a slick, but my race rims are screwed, and those who plan to scock the tire, might want to make sire the rim is screwed. I noticed the W2W Nova has the rims screwed.
I run the 325 tire, on my street rims, so I dont have those screwed. I dont think most guys will need to screw the rim, on a street application, because the tire takes more air than a slick, but my race rims are screwed, and those who plan to scock the tire, might want to make sire the rim is screwed. I noticed the W2W Nova has the rims screwed.
11-20-2006, 11:18 AM
#28
I saw kurt's nova with them screwed too, that 's kinda what made me ask. I know I'm moving the qtp's I have on the bogarts ALOT, I am running those at 11 to 12 psi and am hitting low 1.5 60 foots off the transbrake now, but they are spinning on teh track too still. I'm kinda leaning towards going to a 28x10 et drag, screw them to the rim and be done with it, but there is a certain attraction to putting a tire on that I can still drive on the street a little and won't grow alot requiring alot of cutting of the bumper cover, etc.etc. Either the 325-50's are going on, or a set of 28x10.5s et drags, just haven't decided on which yet, both seem to work very well for everyone.
11-20-2006, 11:52 AM
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I am building a single turbo iron block setup this winter and will be trying the MT Radials for the 1st time... I am curious to see how they will compare to the 28x10.5 stiff sidewall slicks I was running this year... the class I am running in allows any size DR with a 50lbs weight break or DOT cheater slick up to 12.5x30...
Here are the details of the class...
http://www.raceosca.com/rules/true_street.htm
Here are the details of the class...
http://www.raceosca.com/rules/true_street.htm
11-20-2006, 11:57 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
the 315/60 fit into that rule? it might be 13" at the sidewall. if so, the 315 is the tire guys are going 7s on.
The class record is 8.2's... the guy building my car set the record and won the class back in 2003 running 8.5's with a TNT Direct Port LSx motor...
It should be interesting!
11-20-2006, 01:02 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
My car has been on the bumper with 325/50's and I have poly ends on all my susp. parts.... Street car
Do you mind if I ask what pinion angle you run? My car is a street car and I don't have ANY poly ends. It actually doesn't rattle much, if any at all.
11-20-2006, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
i run -3 to -4 degrees of pinion angle but the tq arm is as low as possible (since i cant adjust it its welded low on the crossmember (i have a short style bmr tq arm). i think that helps keep the nose down and rear planted
11-21-2006, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Black Sunshine/ 00SS
I love the tire. I cut numerous 1.50 60's, in a heavy car, 3559, .
I love my 275/50/15 MT's gone low 1.5's regularly on good prep in a HEAVY CAR
2ton pig
11-21-2006, 03:22 PM
#40
Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
i only ran my tires 14 psi cold. no need for screwing to the rims imo. but i am just learning this tire. there seems to be a world of difference b/w the 275 and the 325.
Hell yeah.......... Thats what i swaped to..... same rear as you to John..... u already know that LOL
It should of shipped today....
Lets see how they like a 10psi TB launch....