ok, so what are you guys running?

the car -

00 ss

ms3
92/92
kooks 1 3/4
true duals
spec 3+
weight reduction
skinnies, 11.5" qtp's

pretty much, we need to set up the suspension.

planning on a mid west 9, 4.30's, locker, anti roll bar, lca's, strange coil overs on the front, 275lb springs, single adjustable, strange rears also single adj.


annyyyways. who's running what? and with what 60'?

i had always thought the short arm was better for traction/ street strip apps, but i'd love some more insight on the subject.

 

From what I have seen there is an advantage of a shorter TQ arm but for cars that make real power, it is much easier to put the car on the bumper. There are remedies to counter act that but you just need to be careful.

From your setup, i would be VERY careful.

 

Give UMI PERFORMANCE a call,their a sponsor on here,They helped me out. I just picked up their tunnel mounted tq arm w/ds loop yesterday.They make a quality product & have great customer service.

 

Hello,
What type of exhaust do you plan on running on your set-up? Knowing that will let me give you a recommendation on what torque arm to go with. If you can get back to me and I will be glad to help!
Thanks Again
Brad

 

I have a Midwest 9" with a short arm setup. If you plan on keeping your true duals thats the one you have to run. If you are getting a Midwest Chassis rear then call or PM Eric. By the way I have plent of clearance with my exhaust and his short arm.

 

Also wondering about use m6 guys with good track setups. Anyone used both?

I ran a stock sized older random tech, with the BMR trans Xmeber mount. That setup rides great on the street with the slider front mount. And shifts great with the TA off the trans, but not sure. I hate the way the short tunnel mount ride on the street, but looking for when hitting the tires to hard with the shorts gets to be a issue. For the hard hitting street m6 cars, without going to a slipper clutch.

 

Ive gone low 1.5's on my own short bar, but I'm only 418 rwhp...

 

I never wanted a short arm because this car is primarily street driven, but I have been working on getting this car to hit hard.

I pull both wheels @ 1.75 60' but it is heavy and with a stock style slider off of the trans the body is slamming off the rear so I have some new things I am going to try,

This is a m6 with fbody trans ratio
Rear gear with 4.10
Stock springs/shocks w/ 46k on them
No front sway
Stock rear sway
BMR rear LCA w/ relocation bracket and pan hard rod
the BMR TQ arm is a stock style slider w/ -2 deg pinion angle.

 

just look at all the torque arms that consistently work and work well. for example the two most popular and very proven set-ups, the bmr extreme and madmans. both are shorter and both have gone 1.1x 60's

 

With also having the proper suspension setups indicative of a "Race Car" it works, I guess people need to decide for street cars that dabble in racing, to make sure when they get a car to hook up, that it is not going to go on the bumper.

 

i street dove daily on the same suspension i cut 1.29 60' times with. although my settings were alot different between track and street, it only took a few minutes to make the changes and street driving was pretty comfortable. then again my idea of comfortable may be different than someone elses.

 

1.5s are ok, I was looking more at the 1.35- m6 guys

 

I love my MadMan peice, its shorter than stock but I think any torque arm that dosent mount to the transmission is shorter than stock.

 

the short arm version of my torque arm is basically the same length as Madman's. ht elong arm version is close to stock length.

rule of thumb is turbo/auto, most radial tire cars, or the average weekend racer/street-strip car with 600 rwhp or less make best use of the short arms. the guys with the blower, nitrous, or high-rev 400+ cid cars and transbrake auto or M6 cars with slicks will use the long arm. basically the more power and more tire you have the longer the arm, although not everyones car is the same. you're always best to ask someone experienced in chassis tuning. if you give me the specs on your car and what your goals are i can steer you in the right direction.

although the correct torque arm is important, there are many factors that come into play in how the car works. tires, shocks and shock valving, lca angle, launch rpm and available engine torque all affect the way a car works.

one thing about the Midwest Chassis & Performance rearends... both torque arms can be used at any time. if you ever change your setup, all you have to do is bolt it on.

 

Working on it but this car is too heavy and I dont quite want to rip out everything on a mint 46k mile car lol.

 

Not all of them... mine is ~1" longer than stock

 

We make a short-chassis mount torque arm. We use the same set-up for cars that run 11's and for cars that run 7's. We also have a selection of other suspension parts and shocks. If anyone is interested in our product, please visit our website or call me at 225-673-3533. I'll be more than happy to answer any questions you may have.

http://madmanandcoracing.com/

 

so what was your setup?

and if the short arm DOES wanna drag the bumper, can we tune any of it out with front shock adjustments?

 

and the exhaust is a 3" true dual over the axle setup.

 

alston torque arm (similar to the jegs one that mounts up in the tunnel), QA1's front and back, R series up front, BMR extreme antiroll bar, wolfe lca's. front shock adjustments can help some so can travel limiters. assuming you have lca relocation brackets, moving the control arm up a hole in the rear may also help. these are all things you can do but all cars are different depending on weight and where the weight is at. i have seen a few cars that just want to go on the bumper no matter what you do to them.