Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
06-17-2011, 09:47 AM
#507
ya just a few mins moving the car around, closing the shop up, loading it, ect.
some asked for better pics, remembered once I had the seats out. haha guess I didnt have any good painted ones
looks kinda funny, but did this free hand with the plamsma cutter, deburr, paint quick last thing of the night.
some asked for better pics, remembered once I had the seats out. haha guess I didnt have any good painted ones
looks kinda funny, but did this free hand with the plamsma cutter, deburr, paint quick last thing of the night.
06-18-2011, 08:14 AM
#508
If you did cut the Ttop well out it would be alot higher up, btw. up past the gastank straps mounts, (that crease line'ish) so you would have to box them or something. Some guys let them hang/flap and let the straps pulling them into the tank hold them. But it is the gastank, I would want it a little stronger.
boom
super light. both are under a pound hard to measure , like .8 for the pair
not sure on paint yet? think I'm gona paint the top orange, and the bottom black?
boom
super light. both are under a pound hard to measure , like .8 for the pair
not sure on paint yet? think I'm gona paint the top orange, and the bottom black?
Last edited by studderin; 06-18-2011 at 08:22 AM.
06-18-2011, 11:23 AM
#511
If you get the rest of the seam sealer out of the car, you'll get to that 15 to 18 lbs like I was saying... hard to believe that it weigh's that much isn't it. You can thank me later.
As for the rear brake lines, if you want, ya can run a regular 3/16 line to the back, just hook it up right at the master (manual if you did that), run a single line to the back, put a T fitting on it, run the line on the body over to the frame rail, then run a stainless flex line down to the caliper. That's what I did, now if I have to pull the rear out I can just hang the caliper with a zip tie, off the hard plumbed line, and pull the whole rear out of the car and never crack a brake line and have to be bothered bleeding anything. It does make working on stuff easier that way for sure
Carry on.....
As for the rear brake lines, if you want, ya can run a regular 3/16 line to the back, just hook it up right at the master (manual if you did that), run a single line to the back, put a T fitting on it, run the line on the body over to the frame rail, then run a stainless flex line down to the caliper. That's what I did, now if I have to pull the rear out I can just hang the caliper with a zip tie, off the hard plumbed line, and pull the whole rear out of the car and never crack a brake line and have to be bothered bleeding anything. It does make working on stuff easier that way for sure
Carry on.....
06-18-2011, 02:30 PM
#512
11 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NW IN
Posts: 1,730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks like a lot of hard work, good job. I know I missed it since I just skimmed through this monster thread, but what kind of weight are you shooting for and when did you run that 10.6 in your sig?
06-19-2011, 10:43 AM
#513
fall of 09'
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...0-6-128-a.html
Removed one of the rear stock brake lines, so just running one to the stocks. And the rubber fex with a T I bought is gona work. Its super clean and simple under the car, one fuel line, one brake line Not going to use the 2 metal brackets for the dual rear flex lines anymore, gona make some simple single alum. L ones. The one brake like was just under a pound, With the other flex and brackets probably over 2#s going to one line.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...0-6-128-a.html
Removed one of the rear stock brake lines, so just running one to the stocks. And the rubber fex with a T I bought is gona work. Its super clean and simple under the car, one fuel line, one brake line
Not going to use the 2 metal brackets for the dual rear flex lines anymore, gona make some simple single alum. L ones. The one brake like was just under a pound, With the other flex and brackets probably over 2#s going to one line. Last edited by studderin; 06-19-2011 at 11:07 AM.
06-21-2011, 05:10 PM
#518
Do it 
If I had a bigger tire I needed to fit, after you trip the lip off so you can see the LCA mount, and the front half the the wheel well is just chilling there with the welded seam cut off. You can get even more room, hammering it back and cutting the extra behind it, the floor,back seat, and frame. I gained maybe 3/4" over stock. You also have to have the armrest metal off, the inner well hammers right back
I bet the back seat will still fit too fine, I didnt cut out any of the triple metal behind the speakers, but I could still
Thats a chunk of of weight going to the aftermarket wheel well.
Going to one rear brake line saves 1.8 pounds, plus the fluid.
new clutch line heat shield thats a old air pump heat sock off the manifolds. they work great and free, save them.
If I had a bigger tire I needed to fit, after you trip the lip off so you can see the LCA mount, and the front half the the wheel well is just chilling there with the welded seam cut off. You can get even more room, hammering it back and cutting the extra behind it, the floor,back seat, and frame. I gained maybe 3/4" over stock. You also have to have the armrest metal off, the inner well hammers right back
I bet the back seat will still fit too fine, I didnt cut out any of the triple metal behind the speakers, but I could still Thats a chunk of of weight going to the aftermarket wheel well.Going to one rear brake line saves 1.8 pounds, plus the fluid.
new clutch line heat shield
thats a old air pump heat sock off the manifolds. they work great and free, save them.
06-25-2011, 01:57 PM
#519
hopefully strange can change these for the offset caliper brackets, the strait ones the rotor hits so have to use a spacer . The alum hats are thicker too, and that add .200-.250 per side so now my wheels are super close. The car isn't sitting as low as I will run it they will rub on turns 
