Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
#881
more radius is not needed...i have flow tested tons of these...actually did a back to back with it free open just the bellmouth that i formed vs with the lid clamped onto it and lost nothing...this was flowed at 700CFM...also i made a custom filter at work to fit inside the ram air for street driving or you can always swap back to a stock lid on the street...
Last edited by chrs1313; 10-26-2012 at 10:41 AM.
#882
flowbench is different then the dyno and the running engine at speed going down the track. I have free access to one and don't use it, The owner of it dose headsup race engine stuff so its all about "finding" power, the dyno is the final word. Flow bench is when your leaning stuff, and to sell cylinder heads. Ive been told this, and lately seen it...weird stuff. Gains +10....anything CFM "found" on the bench. Was no hp on the dyno, or lost. And changing things for sizes, and shape, and airspeed. That show a flow loss on the bench, but gain power. Engines run dynamic, Flowbenchs model static events
Get positive pressure, sealed inside above the filter feeding the engine and the bellow style shows up. This is a spun profile, increasing radius to a taper. Cleaning up after the fire at newera we found all the old test ORT (over the radiator) airboxs. Some of the stupidest **** made more power. The cam5 one looks terrible inside, but it works? even setups the didnt fit under the hood, that should be better were not. Now this lid I built might suck, its the one and only I got. WCF is in a few days so not gona try anything else. Newera is moving right now, and the new dyno should be showing up maybe I can make some other styles. But just did a few things That should work, and didnt do a few things that were noticed to lose power.
Not a jab, I'm sure somone could make something out if duct tape and cardboard that would work and make alot of power. But I wanted this to fit like stock,and look good too. Im really happy with all of that
Get positive pressure, sealed inside above the filter feeding the engine and the bellow style shows up. This is a spun profile, increasing radius to a taper. Cleaning up after the fire at newera we found all the old test ORT (over the radiator) airboxs. Some of the stupidest **** made more power. The cam5 one looks terrible inside, but it works? even setups the didnt fit under the hood, that should be better were not. Now this lid I built might suck, its the one and only I got. WCF is in a few days so not gona try anything else. Newera is moving right now, and the new dyno should be showing up maybe I can make some other styles. But just did a few things That should work, and didnt do a few things that were noticed to lose power.
Not a jab, I'm sure somone could make something out if duct tape and cardboard that would work and make alot of power. But I wanted this to fit like stock,and look good too. Im really happy with all of that
#883
Studder my lid gained 10rwhp on the dyno over a FTP 98mm lid...back to back even went lean 13.5 and had to be richened up some...flow test and dyno backed always... . Good luck at your event
#887
Of course I have my templetes, dont think anyone else is running this setup.
Today bill travoto welded it all up at his shop BTR. Fits great clips nice and snug. Check out the front, milled a nice profile in it, like my SLP lid that fits perfect into the lower airbox.
Today bill travoto welded it all up at his shop BTR. Fits great clips nice and snug. Check out the front, milled a nice profile in it, like my SLP lid that fits perfect into the lower airbox.
#891
tall lid is done and welded, had it done fast for MIR. It not perfect looking welds so might ground them down, or paint it? Mock up of what I wanted, this with a box that get pressurized around it. this works with the hi ram too
heres a pic for a idea how tall it is over the stock lid, and how modding a stock lid isn't gona work. FYI, the front a rear sides of the air box curve are profiled within 1/4 1/8 of the sunco hood. (might put some thin foam under the hood there and it should rest on the top) spend some time with a mirror and a light looking up there wedging myself from under the car. Fitting the templets but came out what I wanted.
got the rims, really like them. Not many have these. I bought tubes, and screws for the rear. Not gona like dirlling holes into brand new rims, but heard it was the way to go, helps the tires (sidewalls) last longer with the t56. Not sure how true that is?
orderd a MGW shifter, heard everyone likes ther alot.
heres a pic for a idea how tall it is over the stock lid, and how modding a stock lid isn't gona work. FYI, the front a rear sides of the air box curve are profiled within 1/4 1/8 of the sunco hood. (might put some thin foam under the hood there and it should rest on the top) spend some time with a mirror and a light looking up there wedging myself from under the car. Fitting the templets but came out what I wanted.
got the rims, really like them. Not many have these. I bought tubes, and screws for the rear. Not gona like dirlling holes into brand new rims, but heard it was the way to go, helps the tires (sidewalls) last longer with the t56. Not sure how true that is?
orderd a MGW shifter, heard everyone likes ther alot.
Last edited by studderin; 11-14-2012 at 03:13 PM.
#896
ya I would like to get a different WP, I posted up the weight the stock pump with the tension was 12, or somthing but kinda heavy? The metzier race that bolts on the bock was 7 or 7#'s lighter? 2stroke got it and its nice. I want to its like $480 for 0-3whp so been putting it off.
Stock radiator is light if you look into it. And cools well. I sealed it to the opening, thats were it really helps for radtior cooling. And only using the one fan cut weight, 9pounds or somthing? and I sold my stock fans for $10 more then the Spal. The stock fans weight a bit, if anything you can take out the 2nd AC fan it was 5.5 I think. I'm really tiring to get weight off the front or move it back. thats what helped alot for getting 1.4s on 275s. I got the %'s front and rear better.
Stock radiator is light if you look into it. And cools well. I sealed it to the opening, thats were it really helps for radtior cooling. And only using the one fan cut weight, 9pounds or somthing? and I sold my stock fans for $10 more then the Spal. The stock fans weight a bit, if anything you can take out the 2nd AC fan it was 5.5 I think. I'm really tiring to get weight off the front or move it back. thats what helped alot for getting 1.4s on 275s. I got the %'s front and rear better.
#897
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I wouldn't drill and screw those new rims yet Johnny,
Wait till you run them. Mark the wheels and tires and
See how much (if any) there spinning on the rims.
I'm not having any issues without screws.
Wait till you run them. Mark the wheels and tires and
See how much (if any) there spinning on the rims.
I'm not having any issues without screws.
#899
if I run tubes, Im gona need to screw them. I might try the hi tack. But not going to drill them right now, I almost did the other day. lol
I might get different rear end over the winter, and sell these? Like a MWC, get it really light, narrowed alot, and go with coil overs on the stock shocks. No no need to run the stock coil brackets on the reared. Not sure if this still SS, I see alot of guys running the coils over on the rear and are in SS classes?
I might get different rear end over the winter, and sell these? Like a MWC, get it really light, narrowed alot, and go with coil overs on the stock shocks. No no need to run the stock coil brackets on the reared. Not sure if this still SS, I see alot of guys running the coils over on the rear and are in SS classes?
#900
Any more updates? I have been going back through all of the pics of your build and getting ideas for my car. I'm just about ready to start taking the spot weld cutter and grinding wheels to it, just have to get my damn wiring diet done before I start on something else.