Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
12-31-2011, 12:51 PM
#681
ya that might be it. I have 3 washer under that bolt so it was bottoming out beofre I stacked them. I just remebedd when I took steering rack out I forgot I only really jacked up the driver side, to get that side only bolt out. So that was tilting it.
01-13-2012, 03:50 PM
#682
Sending the trans the RPM to have it freshen, no more slow *** shifting Like Ive been doing the last 2 years. Going to have it faceplated, it should be bad ***. 
Also getting a quicktime bellhousing form them, then have them on sale right now. Getting a access window one too, if I do get a slipper clutch down the road.
Its not going to hurt to have it now, and helps its resale value. Adds a little weight, but I've been running the stock longer then I should
Looks like this
Heres the RXT clutch. Got about 480ish street miles, before going to the track. I think about 10-20 passes on slicks, not a lot of street miles, I htink under 2K. Measure about .010 wear per disc, And I did about 6-7 passes on 275 DR so I was slipping it a little more then etdrags (with added PSI for spin-no bog) Never had a 2disc before, hows it looks?
Notice the 1st clutch (right disc 1st pic) was about 3/8 off the flywheel (ram) were the ID was bigger then the pad size, Not sure how much if a big deal this is or if its normal?
other sides
Also getting a quicktime bellhousing form them, then have them on sale right now. Getting a access window one too, if I do get a slipper clutch down the road.
Its not going to hurt to have it now, and helps its resale value. Adds a little weight, but I've been running the stock longer then I shouldLooks like this
Heres the RXT clutch. Got about 480ish street miles, before going to the track. I think about 10-20 passes on slicks, not a lot of street miles, I htink under 2K. Measure about .010 wear per disc, And I did about 6-7 passes on 275 DR so I was slipping it a little more then etdrags (with added PSI for spin-no bog) Never had a 2disc before, hows it looks?
Notice the 1st clutch (right disc 1st pic) was about 3/8 off the flywheel (ram) were the ID was bigger then the pad size, Not sure how much if a big deal this is or if its normal?
other sides
02-04-2012, 10:54 AM
#686
Trans had some heat marks, on the bearing. Jeremy said it probably the fluid used. And had some more worn gears then was thinking. Having RPM add the on the case bung for the cluster fluid squinter now while its apart.
thanks bob
thanks bob
02-17-2012, 04:06 PM
#687
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...nly-setup.html
This was about a month ago but finally got a new camara to get the graph up
This was about a month ago but finally got a new camara to get the graph up
Took off the SLP 2OTL and my Ypipe, that made the 441w.
Put on 2 short strait thew mufflers with a turn down beofre the rear end, stiffer pushrods and shimmed the valvesprings. Put down 450whp, everything else the same. Mike at NewEra touched the tune up, it runs great. Still have some other things to do, for some more power
Put on 2 short strait thew mufflers with a turn down beofre the rear end, stiffer pushrods and shimmed the valvesprings. Put down 450whp, everything else the same. Mike at NewEra touched the tune up, it runs great. Still have some other things to do, for some more power
03-12-2012, 07:26 AM
#691
Not sure what these 3 are 
billet interlock
billet interlock bolt set
billet shift plate set
faceplating, liberty
bronze shifter bushing
think it got new bearings
mirco polish internals by performance metal
added the fluid squirted fitting
all the seals look new
It wasn't super dirty, had bad oil stains, or corroded. But it looks brand new, RPM gave me a new vent tube too. The coating is super slick, the input shaft fells like teflon Jeremy told me Katech use it coating on the corvette race cars and it was 7whp, with all the other added benefits. And just recommended I do it. Also bought a Quicktime sfi bellhousing form them, they have a sale right now. That should be here is a few weeks. I've worked with a few of them and they fit good, just a little notch ginding for some big headers on some corvettes. I hear for alot of people QT>Mcloud. And the Quick time bells are about 12-13pounds less then the Mclouds Once I get that I can get this trans in.
billet interlock
billet interlock bolt set
billet shift plate set
faceplating, liberty
bronze shifter bushing
think it got new bearings
mirco polish internals by performance metal
added the fluid squirted fitting
all the seals look new
It wasn't super dirty, had bad oil stains, or corroded. But it looks brand new, RPM gave me a new vent tube too. The coating is super slick, the input shaft fells like teflon
Jeremy told me Katech use it coating on the corvette race cars and it was 7whp, with all the other added benefits. And just recommended I do it. Also bought a Quicktime sfi bellhousing form them, they have a sale right now. That should be here is a few weeks. I've worked with a few of them and they fit good, just a little notch ginding for some big headers on some corvettes. I hear for alot of people QT>Mcloud. And the Quick time bells are about 12-13pounds less then the Mclouds Once I get that I can get this trans in. 
03-16-2012, 04:31 PM
#697
ya, I see most guys just do that. I want to check mine and get it setup centered nice. I'll post everything how thats gose. Getting stuff together, and get **** done now.
Late last night started the get the oil pan off to get the improved racing baffle in. I htink this is gona be harder then I was thinking. Had about 5 valve seals springs on the magnetic drain plug, so hopefully I find the rest in the pan. Buzzed all the bolts out fast, BMR Keber is nice that that. Got the dropped, was stuck a little from the RTV corners of timing cover off. only lowers about 3/4". With the trans out, tring to get it out without dropping the Kmember, between the 2 different spindles, and stock, non stock Lower arms. I'm just so sick of all the time doing the aliments, still has some bumpsteer with this rack setup. Took just the passenger motor mount bolt out and jacked the side up, till the header collector hit the floor and the back of the Kemeber. Need more room, I guess today I'll see about taking both out, and if thats enough room? Might have to take the headers off.
Oh ya, don't think this is right? Both side.... I would think they would bend up not down? never mind the dirt
Late last night started the get the oil pan off to get the improved racing baffle in. I htink this is gona be harder then I was thinking. Had about 5 valve seals springs on the magnetic drain plug, so hopefully I find the rest in the pan. Buzzed all the bolts out fast, BMR Keber is nice that that. Got the dropped, was stuck a little from the RTV corners of timing cover off. only lowers about 3/4". With the trans out, tring to get it out without dropping the Kmember, between the 2 different spindles, and stock, non stock Lower arms. I'm just so sick of all the time doing the aliments, still has some bumpsteer with this rack setup. Took just the passenger motor mount bolt out and jacked the side up, till the header collector hit the floor and the back of the Kemeber. Need more room, I guess today I'll see about taking both out, and if thats enough room? Might have to take the headers off.
Oh ya, don't think this is right? Both side.... I would think they would bend up not down? never mind the dirt
Last edited by studderin; 03-16-2012 at 06:58 PM.
03-16-2012, 05:32 PM
#699
TECH Regular
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey STUDDERIN, I have a set of racecraft uppers here on the floor. Kind of hard to explain but the ball joint slightly point towards the rear,so the front arm comes down. But the ball joint plate should be straight between the to like in the last shot. It may just be camera angle, but in your current pic your ball joint plate seems bent upward where it is welded to the bent front arm. The ball joint plate is dead flat between the arms.
03-16-2012, 06:20 PM
#700
ya, thats not how they were new, thats for that info. I'll have the deal with that now. lol
ya thats what Im hoping too, alot of times the universal type LS1 stuff there different PN that "work", some better for what mods you have. I know some guys there bellhousings fit great, and they didn't have to grind anything? I put some on cars just doing the install the owner bought, that I might have to grind a little for one header tube. A C5 with the long LG pro headers or somthing like that. Then got some that were not even close to working, they bought some Espeed shop.com. Some.... XX-XXX PN only fit aftermarket starters. XX-XXY might fit bigger headers, or the moroso oil pan. Its a pain in the *** to know everything. they make 5-8 different LS1 bellhousing. I was talking to RPM anyway, and jermey knows all that, and what clutch I have. And I'm getting the SFI window added. I knew I wanted a quick time too, the Mcclouds are bigger and more bulky. I knew they were heavier too, I've been told form guys that had both the quick time was 12-13pounds lighter then the Mcloud. Everyone says quicktime > Mcloud thats had both, thats means somthing
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tric-fans.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-ele-fans.html
I made the thread about the fan weights. The stock fans in the shroud are 11.7 11.8 pounds. I took one of the fans off (I dont think it was getting turned on anyway without AC) And that was 4.1 4.2pounds, somone told me they did that. Thats a great budget way to go, trace back the wires and see whatever you can pull. I bet you can get it to 5pounds for free, and its up in the front of the car, helped get the %s better if you need them like I do. But I looked into a lighter fan still Have a Spal on the way thats weight 5.1 pounds. Called spal and get the info on there stuff, the tech arron guys like LS1
he friend has a twin turbo LS1 they put in a nova that was in carcraft. So got something that should work good for me. Its not the fan I was thinking.
About $110 shipped. Gona sell my stocks for that I hear there worth, so this should save 6-7 pounds, and work with the stock rad still.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tric-fans.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-ele-fans.html
I made the thread about the fan weights. The stock fans in the shroud are 11.7 11.8 pounds. I took one of the fans off (I dont think it was getting turned on anyway without AC) And that was 4.1 4.2pounds, somone told me they did that. Thats a great budget way to go, trace back the wires and see whatever you can pull. I bet you can get it to 5pounds for free, and its up in the front of the car, helped get the %s better if you need them like I do. But I looked into a lighter fan still Have a Spal on the way thats weight 5.1 pounds. Called spal and get the info on there stuff, the tech arron guys like LS1
he friend has a twin turbo LS1 they put in a nova that was in carcraft. So got something that should work good for me. Its not the fan I was thinking.About $110 shipped. Gona sell my stocks for that I hear there worth, so this should save 6-7 pounds, and work with the stock rad still.
Last edited by studderin; 03-16-2012 at 06:57 PM.