RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Track only car. Go with a lightweight battery in stock location or mount regular battery in the rear area? Car already hooks good so don't need it in the back for weight. I've had all the stuff to re-locate the battery for over a year now, just hate to run all the heavy wires to the front and especially the hot wire along the frame. Just wanting some opinions. Thanks George

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Faster than 10.0 and you need a cutoff anyway. I say rear.

james562

iTrader: (35)

Track car needs the cutoff at 9.99 anyway

MY street/strip deal will use an ETX 14 or 16 on track days and a full size battery during the week

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Damn, I wish 10.0, shooting for 10.60's this year, still N/A. Maybe next year 10.0

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

I just bought a Braille lightweight battery 11.5lb for this year. Nice battery, very small, i am mounting it flat in the stock location. You will have to pull some slack as the positive side will be closest to the fender. I just bought the sidemount adapters and pointed them up to connect.

james562

iTrader: (35)

How much did you get it for?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Problem with that little battery, is that if it's cold outside, I'm talking 30 to 40 degrees, you're gonna find out just how weak that battery is. If you have an electric water pump you want to run, bottle heater, hell the radio, anything like that while the car is off... forget it you're killing that thing in a heartbeat.

Just put a full size battery in the trunk, put a shutoff in the car while you're at it and never have to worry about it, IMO that's your best bet.

joelster

I ran the odysseyPC680 and I live in Buffalo, NY. It will start the car on a colder day no problem. Obviously you don't want to be cranking tunes while the car is off, it has no backup power.

Having a battery in the back is a good idea if:
1. Your car is faster than 10.00
2. You really feel the need to drag an additional 40-50lbs down 1220 feet of track
3. Your car has issues hooking

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'll debate this one. If you want to run the fans between runs, if you want to run an electric water pump between runs, if you want to run an electric bottle heater, if you have one of the tranny's with the electirc pump on it to circulate the fluid thru the tranny and the cooler when the car isn't running... the full size battery is gonna be a really good idea.

If you have a nitrous car that has a couple kits on it, especially if there's 2 4 solenoid kits you really want a full size battery to make sure that the draw of 8 solenoids doesn't cause the voltage to the ignition system doesn't drop and cause issues.

Have you tried starting a motor that's over 13.5 to 1 compression with that little battery? Probably not, becuase it doesn't crank a big motor over for ****, with a stock starter that's good, or with the high tq powermaster starter.

Any of those apply, I'd avoid that little **** battery.

Bitemark46

I too have the PC680 battery mounted in the rear. I will agree with JL Ws6 to an extent. I run an electric pump and between rounds I run the pump to cool the motor. I can only run it about 3-4 mins tops otherwise the car barely turns over (only has about 550 CCA). And that's with stock compression (9.85:1). HOWEVER, my damn pump cools the car so much that after a run its barely at 190. lol. So I only need to run the pump maybe a 1 minute.

But if its a dedicated race car then you're going to bring a batt charger to the track anyways (most likely or you should). Walking through the NMRA pits all I see are guys having their trickle chargers hooked up to the battery between rounds so using the accessories while the motor is off is almost a moot point.

-Mark

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Good info, let me here more.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I bring a jump pack with me at all times, not a trickle charger, but better then nothing.

When I was running the PC680 battery, If I turned the bottle heater on for more then 5 min with the car off I absolutely had to jump the car with the jump pack.

It's a way to save weight, but unless you're at the end of all other options I wouldn't do it. Not even close to being worth the headache. You're talking about losign 30 lbs off the nose, or adding 15 putting the current full size battery in the trunk. So you're talking less then 50 lbs. That's no more then 1/2 a tenth off the e.t as a general rule.

Your car Rene, cutting 1.5 60 foots may benefit from the trunk weight, might be what you need to get it into the 1.4 range. Radial cars like a weight bias that is closer to 50/50, this could help get you closer to that #


Also, just the car sitting without the trickle charger on it in the garage for a month was enough so it wouldn't start without jumping it. And that's with all the electronic stuff out of the car that I could get out, so the draw was minimal.

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

I think i paid $149 for the battery and bought the sidemount connectors separately for about 14.00. I am not running faster than 11 something yet. I only kick my fans on for a short period of time. I do plan on bringing both a trickle charger and a jumpbox with me to the track just in case. We'll see how it goes this year.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Yeah, I had all intensions on putting it in the trunk for a while, but started reading threads about the lightweight batterys and thought that's what everyone's doing these days. I'm still old school on alot of things. So the rear it is. JL do you have a wiring diagram for this? I'm thing about 1/0 welding cable to starter from cut off switch, and #6 wire to alternator straight from the battery. I've got a Hot Wire Kit coming for fuel pump. Where does this wire go? At battery or at alternator or other side of switch with starter?

Bitemark46

Nevermind the motor but this is how to correctly wire it. I have it setup this way and it passes tech at my local track.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I did what bitemark's wiring diagram shows. I ran a big 0 guage welding cable form the ground/negative of the battery to a stud I welded to the rear plate the roll gace is attached to, grounding the battery.

I then ran a 0 guage to a push/pull switch, and tan the 0 guage up to the front, where I tied it to all the positive battery connections. The wire that used to run from the ALT to the battery got removed, and I ran a single 4 ga. wire with a 200 amp fuse back to the positive terminal of the battery directly.

Pretty simple.

I did put a bulkhead fitting on the hvac delete plate, which has proven a useful power lug for other accy's like the nitrous system, elec water pump and the like.

I still have to race wire the car someday, and get rid of all the factory harness out of the engien bay, at that point I'll probably redo alot of the underhood wiring in a neater fashion, but for now it works fine.


One thing I do plan on adding, is aset of 4 guage wires off the ground lug and the battery side of the shutoff so I can put a set of charging lugs on the back bumper cover whre the plate is supposed to be for ease of hookup.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Thanks Bitemark46 and JL. That's how I thougth also. Need to get my lazy *** out there and to it. Still alittle confuse on where to put the wire for the fuel pump Hot Wire Kit. Haven't got the kit, yet. Once I see the instructions I can figure it out. Thanks again

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You can run the hotwire right to the side of the push/pull switch that the 0 ga. cable that runs up front is on... this way when the switch is hit it kills the power to the pump as well 100%.

I have a hotwire setup on my car as well, and that's how I ran it. The resistance was a good bit less due to about 10 feet less wire being needed to get the wire from the pump to the switch vs the alt.

Plus it's one less wire you need to run the entire lenth of the car.

01sscam

I run a pc680 in the front, starts my car just fine.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

You the MAN