Competition Engineering Rear Drag Shocks?
#63
I have them in the rear of my ta. With a 3.50 gear, and the car running horrible i was getting low 1.7 60 fts on a m6 turbo car with stock ws6 wheels, and 275/40/17 et street radials.
This year i have strange coilovers up front, and a couple other small things. I should be 1.6 60fts, and with a 6 spd i dont think its to bad. When i go auto, i think 1.4's 1.5's should be doable.
For the 90 bucks for both of them, i dont think you can go wrong.
Chris
This year i have strange coilovers up front, and a couple other small things. I should be 1.6 60fts, and with a 6 spd i dont think its to bad. When i go auto, i think 1.4's 1.5's should be doable.
For the 90 bucks for both of them, i dont think you can go wrong.
Chris
Sean
#65
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
Bumping an old thread. I'm thinking about getting these for the rear on my 02 WS6. For the front suspension, I'll be running the Viking double adjustable coilovers with a 350lb spring. Couple of questions; how well do the CE 2700's do on the street, and what lowering spring are you guys running with them? Is anyone running these with the Viking coilovers up front? Appreciate the help.
#67
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
It's pretty plain and simple. Will the comp shocks get you by... sure. Will they give you the needed suspension control for optimum performance... definitely not. If you can't swing both sets right away then get the rears first, and save up for the fronts. Keep in mind the prices will go up after the 1st. Give us a call!
#70
I agree with mwc. Always put the better shock on the rear of the car vs the front. I'd rather see a 3 way adjustable on the front because the front you mostly are just using the shock to control how fast the front end is coming up, which isn't really a issue until you start to start having wheeling issues. You need to control both how the tire extends in to the ground and the compression setting to help keep the tire planted in the ground in the rear. Jmo and I'm no suspension genius by any means either.
#73
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
A lot of this has to do with the particular combo of the car. A M6 car with a 4.56 gear will be much more active on the shock than A4 car with a 3.73. The tires are also in the picture. A car with slicks will need a different chassis setup than a car with radials.
So... it's not that a particular shock is good or no good, it is what works with your actual combo. I can tell you that a 40.00 shock will not work as well or last as long as a good quality adjustable shock from somewhere like Afco, Strange, or Viking... and there's good reason. Sure you will find people that have had good results with the cheap shocks, but when it comes to consistency and performance, especially on marginal surfaces, the higher cost shocks will always get you to the finish line first.
So... it's not that a particular shock is good or no good, it is what works with your actual combo. I can tell you that a 40.00 shock will not work as well or last as long as a good quality adjustable shock from somewhere like Afco, Strange, or Viking... and there's good reason. Sure you will find people that have had good results with the cheap shocks, but when it comes to consistency and performance, especially on marginal surfaces, the higher cost shocks will always get you to the finish line first.